I love the decel pops! Keep them
CK5
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'72 K5 - AJ's Gray Matter Build
- Thread starter AJs72K5
- Start date
Three things:
1. I like the sound....even the crackling as the RPMs drop
2. Didn't you have flames on your tailgate?
3. Why the sad face @ 1:06?? Cheer up man, you've got a 1st Gen with a BBC!
-G
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My friend that did the exhaust said it had a nice deep rumble under load when I was driving away from the shop.
Three things:
1. I like the sound....even the crackling as the RPMs drop
2. Didn't you have flames on your tailgate?
3. Why the sad face @ 1:06?? Cheer up man, you've got a 1st Gen with a BBC!
-G
Flames are still there. Just can't see them in the lighting.
Wasn't a sad face, was more of a "I've been up since 5am worked a 12 hour day fooking tired" face. Duly noted for next video.
Once I get the ECM back, I'll do a launch and a driveby vid
AJ,
I reread this thread this AM... Did you ever do a CamQuest simulation for the new cam & aluminum head combo? The old setup had a pretty healthy set of numbers on the simulator and I'm curious how much more this new setup will we worth HP/TQ wise.
I remember using the CamQuest software way back when I was planning my 502BBC build. It was disappointing how few cam choices were offered by the configurator.... But your comments about how the software assumes that an EFI motor is using the stock ECU makes sense. The cam choices were all really mild, presumably to keep the stock computer happy.... But I'm sure it leaves a lot of HP/TQ on the table. Seems like a major oversight of the software not to account for aftermarket programmable EFI systems.
-G
I reread this thread this AM... Did you ever do a CamQuest simulation for the new cam & aluminum head combo? The old setup had a pretty healthy set of numbers on the simulator and I'm curious how much more this new setup will we worth HP/TQ wise.
I remember using the CamQuest software way back when I was planning my 502BBC build. It was disappointing how few cam choices were offered by the configurator.... But your comments about how the software assumes that an EFI motor is using the stock ECU makes sense. The cam choices were all really mild, presumably to keep the stock computer happy.... But I'm sure it leaves a lot of HP/TQ on the table. Seems like a major oversight of the software not to account for aftermarket programmable EFI systems.
-G
AJ,
I reread this thread this AM... Did you ever do a CamQuest simulation for the new cam & aluminum head combo? The old setup had a pretty healthy set of numbers on the simulator and I'm curious how much more this new setup will we worth HP/TQ wise.
I remember using the CamQuest software way back when I was planning my 502BBC build. It was disappointing how few cam choices were offered by the configurator.... But your comments about how the software assumes that an EFI motor is using the stock ECU makes sense. The cam choices were all really mild, presumably to keep the stock computer happy.... But I'm sure it leaves a lot of HP/TQ on the table. Seems like a major oversight of the software not to account for aftermarket programmable EFI systems.
-G
No Greg. I couldn't rerun CamQuest with the new cam because I went with a Lunati cam. But, yeah, everything in CamQuest considered "EFI friendly" assumes stock ECU. The cam selections are barely above stock params, like the first cam I put in. There's no way it would've made the power CamQuest said it would.
When I asked the Comp tech what makes a cam EFI friendly, here's the explanation I got:
"The aftermarket systems are more friendly than stock EFI set ups. For example, the EZ will allow for less vacuum to run over a stock setup, where as the XFI is a tuneable ECU and you can program to get past the really heavy cams. Lower duration, lower valve lift and wider LSA (lobe separation angle) will allow for better vacuum and smoother idle. Now, that doesn't mean you can't run a good size cam, just have to be choosey on how the combination of lobes and LSA go together.'
While he didn't give specific params, it makes sense.At this point, I'm running a step above stock converter at 1800-2000 stall. When it's time to rebuild, I'll bump that up to 2400-2600, which will open up cam selections. I'll also very likely go solid roller instead of hydraulic roller as it'll allow me to be more more aggressive.
All in all, I think I did decent for my first oil pan up engine build. But, there's definitely been lessons learned.
You guys need duno 2000 it allows you to spec whatever you want. Cam quest is using a derivative of that software I believe just locked out.
The truck sounds great man! I like the vband idea.. I have times where I trailer my rig and would be nice to have it extra rowdy for the guy only trips or dunes etc..
The truck sounds great man! I like the vband idea.. I have times where I trailer my rig and would be nice to have it extra rowdy for the guy only trips or dunes etc..
UPDATE 7/5/15: Workin out the bugs
Pulled out the ECM and sent it back to FAST. They found an issue on the circuit board, but weren't specific about what. Bottom line, they sent me a new ECU. Hooked it up and it was still throwing errors at the handheld. Called FAST again, and the tech walked me thru "recalibrating" the handheld. Felt a lot like pairing a bluetooth device to your phone. Errors have pretty much stopped at this point <cautious happy dance>
Before vacation started putting some of the clothes back on. Still need to do the inner fenders (they'll go absolutely last) and the grille. Hood shot sticking out from the garage.
One of my last leaks has been the temp sender for the autometer gauges. Been using Permatex thread sealant, but keeps leaking and pooling up on the manifold. This one is flat out pissing me off. Will be posting up in the garage about it.
Sorry guys, no gratuitous Forth of July burn outs today. Hopefully soon.
Pulled out the ECM and sent it back to FAST. They found an issue on the circuit board, but weren't specific about what. Bottom line, they sent me a new ECU. Hooked it up and it was still throwing errors at the handheld. Called FAST again, and the tech walked me thru "recalibrating" the handheld. Felt a lot like pairing a bluetooth device to your phone. Errors have pretty much stopped at this point <cautious happy dance>
Before vacation started putting some of the clothes back on. Still need to do the inner fenders (they'll go absolutely last) and the grille. Hood shot sticking out from the garage.
One of my last leaks has been the temp sender for the autometer gauges. Been using Permatex thread sealant, but keeps leaking and pooling up on the manifold. This one is flat out pissing me off. Will be posting up in the garage about it.
Sorry guys, no gratuitous Forth of July burn outs today. Hopefully soon.
UPDATE 8/12/15 - Sweatin the small stuff. Slowly making progress.
Got the leak in the temp sender squared away. Unsuccessfully tried a few things and ended up using a thin bead of Permatex watertemp housing sealant. Left a few threads clean and still have good ground contact on the sender. Check that one off.
Got rid of the ugly a$$ factory upper steering joint and put in a Borgeson ujoint. Much better function and better looking to boot. For anybody searching later... 3/4" 36 spline and 3/4" DD.
Put in both inner fenders. They still look good after sitting on the shelf all this time. Shiny.
Mounted the transmission cooler lines to the fender. I used Made For You double tclamps with a small plastic spacer underneath to get the braided stainless up off the fender. I've used these clamps in a few places on the engine. I like em.
Lastly put the grille on and aligned the hood.
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Kidding. I decided to ditch the billet and took it back old school.
Not much left on the list to get it inspected and registered.
Got the leak in the temp sender squared away. Unsuccessfully tried a few things and ended up using a thin bead of Permatex watertemp housing sealant. Left a few threads clean and still have good ground contact on the sender. Check that one off.
Got rid of the ugly a$$ factory upper steering joint and put in a Borgeson ujoint. Much better function and better looking to boot. For anybody searching later... 3/4" 36 spline and 3/4" DD.
Put in both inner fenders. They still look good after sitting on the shelf all this time. Shiny.
Mounted the transmission cooler lines to the fender. I used Made For You double tclamps with a small plastic spacer underneath to get the braided stainless up off the fender. I've used these clamps in a few places on the engine. I like em.
Lastly put the grille on and aligned the hood.
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Kidding. I decided to ditch the billet and took it back old school.
Not much left on the list to get it inspected and registered.
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Looks way good!!
Excellent choice on the grill. 
Excellent choice on the grill. 
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Almost fooled me. The flames on the hood gave it away as not being right. Looks nicer than anything I've seen that isn't 2" off the ground.
Damn! Those fenders are shiny!
Factory grill FTW too.
Factory grill FTW too.
Haha, you got me.
Good choice on the factory grille.
Martin
Good choice on the factory grille.
Martin
Nice job, AJ!
All the little stuff starts to jump out when you have a truck that's so nicely detailed.
Electrical tape on the end of the wiring loom
Zip tie holding down the harness
Rubber hose not connected to anything
I don't know how anal retentive you are, but it looks like you've got a parking brake cable laying across the drivers side inner fender....which will eventually abrate and scratch the paint off underneath. It's the kind of little detail that is better to just deal with now, rather than waiting for the paint to be damaged.....removing that fender liner without scratching/damaging anything else is going to be a serious hassle.
PS. I have fantasies about one-day getting my own build to the point where I can worry about YOUR kind of issues!
-G
All the little stuff starts to jump out when you have a truck that's so nicely detailed.
Electrical tape on the end of the wiring loom
Zip tie holding down the harness
Rubber hose not connected to anything
I don't know how anal retentive you are, but it looks like you've got a parking brake cable laying across the drivers side inner fender....which will eventually abrate and scratch the paint off underneath. It's the kind of little detail that is better to just deal with now, rather than waiting for the paint to be damaged.....removing that fender liner without scratching/damaging anything else is going to be a serious hassle.
PS. I have fantasies about one-day getting my own build to the point where I can worry about YOUR kind of issues!
-G
Nice job, AJ!
All the little stuff starts to jump out when you have a truck that's so nicely detailed.
Electrical tape on the end of the wiring loom
Zip tie holding down the harness
Rubber hose not connected to anything
I don't know how anal retentive you are, but it looks like you've got a parking brake cable laying across the drivers side inner fender....which will eventually abrate and scratch the paint off underneath. It's the kind of little detail that is better to just deal with now, rather than waiting for the paint to be damaged.....removing that fender liner without scratching/damaging anything else is going to be a serious hassle.
PS. I have fantasies about one-day getting my own build to the point where I can worry about YOUR kind of issues!
-G
Dang man. Wiring is done. I used electric tape at the ends of all the braided covers and where groupings of covered wires joined.
The ebrake cable is an issue tho. The push pull cables I found don't have a tight bend radius. The way its currently routed is currently the best I can do while still running the factory pedal. Thinking about running a handle at some point...hidden inside the console. Small stuff.
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Looks great! Nice job AJ!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Dang man. Wiring is done. I used electric tape at the ends of all the braided covers and where groupings of covered wires joined.
The ebrake cable is an issue tho. The push pull cables I found don't have a tight bend radius. The way its currently routed is currently the best I can do while still running the factory pedal. Thinking about running a handle at some point...hidden inside the console. Small stuff.
I think Greg just meant to put some kind of rubber pad or clamp between the brake cable and the inner fender. The paint scratched off on mine and looks about the same.
Exactly! No need to reroute the cable, just find a way to keep it from bouncing around or rubbing across that beautiful paint!!!
-G
looks awesome AJ! the Made For You stuff is real nice...
Man, that sure came out nice, AJ. I dig that you put on a period correct grille. Just not the correct grille for that period tho.
69-70 FTMFW. 
I dig that you put on a period correct grille. Just not the correct grille for that period tho. 69-70 FTMFW.
Spent the evening drawing this up in Front Panel Express. I'm sure there are easier ways, hence the extra shapes, but their app submits it for machining too. Will be cut from 3mm anodized natural aluminum
