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'72 K5 - AJ's Gray Matter Build

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what you call ol fashioned I call current lol, I still have one caliper slightly bleeding thru the hole in the nipple, bought a set from NAPA and still have the problem. thinking the seat in the caliper is the problem, but can't come up with a fix

sorry to Hi-jack
 
jaros44sr said:
what you call ol fashioned I call current lol, I still have one caliper slightly bleeding thru the hole in the nipple, bought a set from NAPA and still have the problem. thinking the seat in the caliper is the problem, but can't come up with a fix

sorry to Hi-jack
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What do you mean by bleeding thru the hole in the nipple? The caliper bleeder screw leaks out thru the vacuum bleeder nipple?
 
well, I close off the bleed nipple, so no fluid comes, but in awhile fluid seeps up and forms a bubble of fluid on top of the nipple, I can only think that the seat is dirty, but it looked shiny
when I took the bleeder nipple out
 
Thanks for the write up, AJ. I'm just starting to do this on the rig, and this will help a ton.

I know you were mentioning the adapter plate some time back, maybe in a text? But I just recently drug out my unit and bolted it up to check. Maybe I drilled the mounting plate back then when I was doing the pedal/pushrod fab, I guess I don’t know. Is it needed for something I’m not thinking about?

B590C016-8C1F-4FE2-B2C7-2F8B4BDC2988.jpeg
 
jaros44sr said:
well, I close off the bleed nipple, so no fluid comes, but in awhile fluid seeps up and forms a bubble of fluid on top of the nipple, I can only think that the seat is dirty, but it looked shiny
when I took the bleeder nipple out
Click to expand...

Ah, there's no seal on the bleeder screw. It seals like an AN fitting. The mating surfaces may not be clean.

NorCal69 said:
Thanks for the write up, AJ. I'm just starting to do this on the rig, and this will help a ton.

I know you were mentioning the adapter plate some time back, maybe in a text? But I just recently drug out my unit and bolted it up to check. Maybe I drilled the mounting plate back then when I was doing the pedal/pushrod fab, I guess I don’t know. Is it needed for something I’m not thinking about?
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You can probably get away with how you've mounted it Mike. Using the firewall bracket that I did, you wouldn't have had to drill out the plate like you did. Up to you...
 
Thanks AJ. I wasn't sure if I was missing something. While I have ya, what master is that? I already have that prop valve, but might as well steal your entire system. lol It looks like 260-8555, 260-8556 or 260-9439 will all work with it, but all are different bore. Plus...I like the black one.

Thanks!
 
NorCal69 said:
Thanks for the write up, AJ. I'm just starting to do this on the rig, and this will help a ton.

I know you were mentioning the adapter plate some time back, maybe in a text? But I just recently drug out my unit and bolted it up to check. Maybe I drilled the mounting plate back then when I was doing the pedal/pushrod fab, I guess I don’t know. Is it needed for something I’m not thinking about?

View attachment 334138
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When I did hydro-boost on my '70, I got a flat plate on the booster from Vanco. It wasn't quite correct, but the new version that I made is still flat. Vanco installed a new rod to connect to the pedal. (From what I remember. )
Don't forget about the clamp that holds the bottom of the column which bolts onto the firewall.
 
Good point on the clamp. I seen that on AJ’s photos last night and I had forgotten all about that. I might be able to just chop the bottom of my plate off for the clamp.... or just order the damn adapter plate. Lol.
 
6872xtc said:
When I did hydro-boost on my '70, I got a flat plate on the booster from Vanco. It wasn't quite correct, but the new version that I made is still flat. Vanco installed a new rod to connect to the pedal. (From what I remember. )
Don't forget about the clamp that holds the bottom of the column which bolts onto the firewall.
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Oh good call. I missed that on Mike's pic. The bracket I got is notched to clear that clamp, and I still had to shave it just a tad
 
I used a flat plate to mount mine and it's been working fine for years. I think you'll be fine.
 
2/8/21 - Big upgrades planned to the Overbuilt Cruiser for this year. Back in parts accumulation mode. And finally adding a needed skill because I got tired of sourcing out my welding.

@ryoken - Like the helmet?

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I took big advantage of the Black Friday sale at ORD
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more to come...
 
folkenheath said:
Its about to go down! :cool:
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BIG time! Still more to acquire. Gonna be slow progress, as usual. The kids are keeping me entirely too busy.

ryoken said:
sweet! tracking says mine will be here tomorrow....

jealous of the machine too... ;)
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Thanks Paul. I can't wait to fire it up and hopefully keep the booger welds to a minimum.
 
12/1/22 - Back from the dead

Life's been busy (got married, my kids are now in high school, house upgrades, etc.) and the K5 got mothballed in the process. BUT, things have settled and it's back to work on the K5. Once again, we have a build name change. This one will stick and will make sense later. Over the next year, the K5 is going to undergo massive changes. Onto the pics and updates:

Connor, my youngest, who's now as tall as I am, and I made a cannonball run to Phoenix to pick up our next project. It'll get parked for a year or so. Killer deal on an original owner, lived it's whole life in Arizona 1970 SWB C10.

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While there, we stopped by Hogan Built (Hogie Shines) and spent a couple of hours talking with Dan Hogan. We plotted some evil plans for the K5.

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You'll notice the jungle gym in the back of the C10. That came home with us and got a shot of primer. Yes, it's only 4 point. Yes, it could use more triangulation. But, for my purposes, it'll work.
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Set in place in the K5, for now
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Been spending more than a few hours in CAD designing this. It's effectively factory dimensions, with some adjustments. Opened up the engine bay by a few inches to better accommodate a BBC and its headers, etc. It's going to Art Morrison for build soon. Art Morrison is the only chassis builder who wanted to play. Other than the Roadster Shop and their RS4 ($40K) and the new Legend Series ($100K) 4x4 chassis, everyone else is sticking with fully built, lowered 2wd stuff and wasn't interested in building something with me. Their loss...

The bed full of ORD parts in one of my last posts will come into play here.
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Stay tuned. I ordered a pile of parts on Black Friday / Cyber Monday. BBC tuning (I know, been saying that for a couple of years now) and rendering coming soon.
 
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WOW! That's quite a project. So, is the only goal for the new frame to make it fit a big block better? What are the "adjustments" for? Super curious!
 
ashman said:
WOW! That's quite a project. So, is the only goal for the new frame to make it fit a big block better? What are the "adjustments" for? Super curious!
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Few reasons. Better accommodate the BBC, eliminate the notorious frame / body flex the factory frame has, eliminate the stress points that a coilover suspension places on the factory frame. And it'll just be cool.

Almost everything matches factory measurements. Measurements ahead of the engine cross member are same as factory to keep steering geometry intact. Rear frame measurements are the same too so I wouldn't have to adjust fuel cell / tank. Most notable was engine clearance.
 
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