One more angle... End of the day photo.
-G
-G
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Its like one of those movies where you think you have the plot figured out, but then a big twist gets thrown at you.
Are you going to use the new sections to completely replace that part of the old frame, or sandwich the old frame with the plates and cut away the low hanging portion?
Brian,
For the time being, I'm leaving the "scraps" of the old frame just to hold the dimensions temporarily. Ultimately, once I get all of the sections butted-up to each other for final welding those scraps will fall away. Ultimately I want a single thickness of frame so that the 1/4" backing plates can sit directly inside there with no gaps anywhere.
-G
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Ah, so your 1/4" backing plates will be hidden inside the frame rails? Pretty cool idea.
Greg, are you doing this only on the passenger side or driver side as well?
Yep. Don't want anyone to know that I'm not still driving a "stock" 1972 K5.
Scotty, thank goodness I only need to do this on the PS. The interference is the pumpkin and axle-mounted PHB. On the drivers side I actually have about 2" of clearance between the axletube and the underside of the framerail at full-stuff. No problems.
-G
I heard that there was a SQUIRREL in here...
Nice job on the frame so far, Greg. It will be cool to see how you work that backing plate into the frame cut-out.
You said that you stretched it out to 107". What way did you go. 1.5" forward with both?
Nice job on the frame so far, Greg. It will be cool to see how you work that backing plate into the frame cut-out.
You said that you stretched it out to 107". What way did you go. 1.5" forward with both?
nicely played! 
Mike,
Went back 2" in the rear to get the tire centered, and forward 1" in the front.
I'll have to go back and re-read all of my notes, but I remember there was a small issue with the rear tires in the wheel opening that might have required me to move the tire another 1/2" or so to get the gaps "correct" so the tire wouldn't look crammed in the front edge of the wheelwell. That would put my wheelbase at ~107.5"
In my previous life (as a person who drove a perfectly functional 1st Gen on leafsprings) my front axle was 1" forward also with the ORD leafpack. It bought me a little extra clearance in the footwell area as the suspension stuffed and the shackle flattened out. Even with that small change I had to mess with the front fenders (fang area, etc) and move the entire opening a bit further forward toward the side marker lens. At that time I realized that from a purely aesthetic point-of-view that was just about the limit for how far I'd allow the front axle to go.
The front approach angles have always been good, though without the 2" body lift I'm going to be losing just a bit of what I used to have. I think ultimately the bellypan sits a bit lower than last time around also (currently at ~26" measured under the door area).
This frame mod is pretty challenging and fun, but I'm just really looking forward to getting it complete so that I can move on to other things up front. This truck could literally be sitting on all fours out in the driveway by the time the snow melts around here.
-G
Went back 2" in the rear to get the tire centered, and forward 1" in the front.
I'll have to go back and re-read all of my notes, but I remember there was a small issue with the rear tires in the wheel opening that might have required me to move the tire another 1/2" or so to get the gaps "correct" so the tire wouldn't look crammed in the front edge of the wheelwell. That would put my wheelbase at ~107.5"
In my previous life (as a person who drove a perfectly functional 1st Gen on leafsprings) my front axle was 1" forward also with the ORD leafpack. It bought me a little extra clearance in the footwell area as the suspension stuffed and the shackle flattened out. Even with that small change I had to mess with the front fenders (fang area, etc) and move the entire opening a bit further forward toward the side marker lens. At that time I realized that from a purely aesthetic point-of-view that was just about the limit for how far I'd allow the front axle to go.
The front approach angles have always been good, though without the 2" body lift I'm going to be losing just a bit of what I used to have. I think ultimately the bellypan sits a bit lower than last time around also (currently at ~26" measured under the door area).
This frame mod is pretty challenging and fun, but I'm just really looking forward to getting it complete so that I can move on to other things up front. This truck could literally be sitting on all fours out in the driveway by the time the snow melts around here.
-G
Don't worry about it. I probably have what you did over here somewhere. I've been copying all of the pics that you have reluctantly posted of the Oracle and made a thinner version.
Should be going on sale pretty soon. I'll cut ya in for some action if you sign some of them.
You didn't make the mistake of assuming that I photographed the Oracle notebook with the "accurate" data did you...???? Don't believe everything you see in photos on the interwebs.
-G
-G
they can't put anyting on the internet that is not true. Bonjour.
BAM!
Got the final fitment of the new parts completed, including the dovetail notch and welded the assembly flush into the original frame.
Here's a shot from the back side that shows (dramatically) the extra clearance that was achieved with the new frame shape.
This was all accomplished without the normal comforts of heat in the garage. For some reason, the space heater pilot kept going out....either a stuck regulator on the LP tank or a mysteriously empty tank. So I did most of this work while watching the vapor of my own breath.
Hopefully I can get the heater issue resolved today, and get a warmer update tonight.
-G
Got the final fitment of the new parts completed, including the dovetail notch and welded the assembly flush into the original frame.
Here's a shot from the back side that shows (dramatically) the extra clearance that was achieved with the new frame shape.
This was all accomplished without the normal comforts of heat in the garage. For some reason, the space heater pilot kept going out....either a stuck regulator on the LP tank or a mysteriously empty tank. So I did most of this work while watching the vapor of my own breath.
Hopefully I can get the heater issue resolved today, and get a warmer update tonight.
-G
You're crazy...
I like you, but you're crazy:tongue:
Incredible as always man. I demand to see this truck in person at some point in my life!
I like you, but you're crazy:tongue:
Incredible as always man. I demand to see this truck in person at some point in my life!
Very impressive work man. You have to be pretty excited about the outcome on the frame mod.
What is with the blue stuff? I've seen it used over on Pirate. I think it starts with a "D", or something. Does it make your line more visible on the blue?
So, what's next in the big picture? Hang the axle again and finish up with the rest of the mock-up?
You have to be pretty excited about the outcome on the frame mod. What is with the blue stuff? I've seen it used over on Pirate. I think it starts with a "D", or something. Does it make your line more visible on the blue?
So, what's next in the big picture? Hang the axle again and finish up with the rest of the mock-up?
It's prob. blue marking dye.
Enables you to see your scribe and layout marks easier.
Careful though...it's only for pro's. ...right Greg.
On a separate note,
Greg,when are you gonna drive this thing!
Seem's the last time was at Blazerfest!
Dykem Blue (comes in red also...)
Its a marking fluid that makes me feel more like a "pro" than I do with the Sharpie pens... The main benefit is that you can use a scribe to get really precise lines. The Sharpies generally are only good for about 1/8" of "resolution".... When you want a really precise cut (like on that dovetail joint) its good to have nice sharp lines to mark the cuts. Otherwise the gaps could end up really big and hard to weld-up.
Next step is to pull the motor so I can gain better access to the inside of the framerail. I still need to install the backing plates and inside rail... Then the axle goes back under for the PHB and steering linkages.
-G
Its a marking fluid that makes me feel more like a "pro" than I do with the Sharpie pens... The main benefit is that you can use a scribe to get really precise lines. The Sharpies generally are only good for about 1/8" of "resolution".... When you want a really precise cut (like on that dovetail joint) its good to have nice sharp lines to mark the cuts. Otherwise the gaps could end up really big and hard to weld-up.
Next step is to pull the motor so I can gain better access to the inside of the framerail. I still need to install the backing plates and inside rail... Then the axle goes back under for the PHB and steering linkages.
-G
Tori + Greg(wave) at Blazerfest #3 June 28-30/2002, Hollister Hill's California.
His Blazer In West Coast form.
Here he is actually driving it.
Had to stop mid trail run. He was running too hot.
Turns out his ground to his electric fans wiggled loose. He reconnected and we were back on the trail.
And this was the 1st gen group shot.
Greg72, BobK, Triaged, ? , Ryan, Brad(1fnhik5) , Burt 4x4
Greg, I can't remember the 4th guy's name...do you?
Sorry, back to the build.
.
His Blazer In West Coast form.
Here he is actually driving it.
Had to stop mid trail run. He was running too hot.
Turns out his ground to his electric fans wiggled loose. He reconnected and we were back on the trail.
And this was the 1st gen group shot.
Greg72, BobK, Triaged, ? , Ryan, Brad(1fnhik5) , Burt 4x4
Greg, I can't remember the 4th guy's name...do you?
Sorry, back to the build.
.
Bob,
WOW! Thanks for the pics....those really take me back!
1/2-ton front axle, pseudo-braided hose on the "427BBC" LOL! before it stopped oiling and I learned it was nothing but a run of the mill 396.... hard-as-a-rock military tires, etc.
That fan issue turned out to be my own ignorance. I was wiring the thermostat sensor on the intake directly to the fans and using it to switch probably 40A worth of draw.... went through a few of those senders before realizing that the "correct" setup involves a relay (or two!).
I did two Moab trips after those photos (BlazerBash 2002 & 2003) and the BlazerFest event in Hollister in 2004.... but sadly, that was the last "event" that the truck attended.
BTW -> I think the missing names are Mike (MJF) in the yellow K5, and Brad (1FNHIK5) in the tall red truck on 44s. As I recall he broke his transmission in the mud pit and had to be towed over to the group photo... Good times!
-G
WOW! Thanks for the pics....those really take me back!
1/2-ton front axle, pseudo-braided hose on the "427BBC" LOL! before it stopped oiling and I learned it was nothing but a run of the mill 396.... hard-as-a-rock military tires, etc.
That fan issue turned out to be my own ignorance. I was wiring the thermostat sensor on the intake directly to the fans and using it to switch probably 40A worth of draw.... went through a few of those senders before realizing that the "correct" setup involves a relay (or two!).
I did two Moab trips after those photos (BlazerBash 2002 & 2003) and the BlazerFest event in Hollister in 2004.... but sadly, that was the last "event" that the truck attended.
BTW -> I think the missing names are Mike (MJF) in the yellow K5, and Brad (1FNHIK5) in the tall red truck on 44s. As I recall he broke his transmission in the mud pit and had to be towed over to the group photo... Good times!
-G
Thanks Bobk. That's a cool addition to this awesome thread Or at least I enjoyed it.
Or at least I enjoyed it.
Tori + Greg(wave) at Blazerfest #3 June 28-30/2002, Hollister Hill's California.
His Blazer In West Coast form.
The legs in the Semi Cab are fantastical...
