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Welcome to Page 29.....

Damn, I've "officially" failed. I was supposed to have this in the sunshine by now. :whistle::dunno::doah:


-G
 
Your just so cool. I get disgruntled when i realize i still have to install new window motors before i put my door panels back on.
 
Welcome to my world.... :haha:

Hey you live in CA.... the sun shines on your truck almost every single day!



Speaking of which.... it's a rainy, miserable day here and this is supposed to continue throughout the weekend. :( Doesn't mother nature understand what's at stake here? :haha:


On the bright side, over the last few days I've at least been able to get all my supplies in order. Bolts, 1/4" plate steel, 60cuft bottle of nitrogen and a stupid-expensive 600psi nitrogen regulator.....

I may not get the truck out of the garage this weekend, but I'm queued up for some highly productive time in the shop with no parts shortages to slow me down.


-G
 
Things got a bit more complicated during the rainy NH weekend.....

2E831A98-5174-4519-8064-4822F6203BD0-3225-000005138A0D7CEE_zpse905833d.jpg


This crossmember also needs to incorporate the transmission mount so that added some extra work. I'm glad I didn't try to go straight to steel... Even with quick revision changes in foamcore, I've already got more than 10 hours into this template already.


-G
 
Here are a few more from yesterday....

The transmission mounts needed to be integrated into this mount, so I cut out a couple of holes to drop them in... (note: this angle shows the crossmember flipped over showing it's underside. It needs to be rotated flipped over for installation)

IMG_7163.jpg


This photo reminds me of a "Recognizer" from the original TRON movie.

You'll also notice that the 2" DOM sleeve is in the mockup where the pivot will ultimately go.... and I had to drill a 3" hole in the side plate so that the 10" long bolt could actually be installed into that area! :D Glad I noticed that early....it would have been embarrassing.

IMG_7164.jpg


This is a shot of the underside of the monolith (the side that faces the ground)... trying desperately to incorporate some additional bracing to keep it from folding in half under real-life loading:

IMG_7166.jpg


.....and installed under the truck:

IMG_7169.jpg


A closer shot of the transmission mount area:

IMG_7178.jpg


A top view from between the seat area...

IMG_7188.jpg


.... and a bonus shot of some other new parts that arrived.

A set of 14" ORIs and my $32 pivot bolt (Gr-8, 1-1/2"-6 x 10")

IMG_7124.jpg





-G
 
pivot bolt (Gr-8, 1-1/2"-6 x 10")

You might be a fastener nerd if this gets you hot. :haha: [It does me! ]

6 TPI, and it doesn't LOOK all that big in the photo 'cuz there's not so much to put it to scale. You shoulda put it next to the regulatory soda can :D

What's the threaded rod off to the left, like 1/2" dia?

-- A
 
wow, that was fast on the ORIs. Where did you get them?

Took your advice and PM'ed a bunch of vendors on Pirate4x4 who sell ORIs.... got lucky and found a shop who had them in stock. Normal lead time these days is 12-weeks (hello? Can you say Christmas? :eek1:)..... I got extremely lucky.


You might be a fastener nerd if this gets you hot. :haha: [It does me! ]

6 TPI, and it doesn't LOOK all that big in the photo 'cuz there's not so much to put it to scale. You shoulda put it next to the regulatory soda can :D

What's the threaded rod off to the left, like 1/2" dia?

-- A


Yeah, I will get a better photo with the Diet Coke can for you..... she's a monster for sure. Nothing like having to use two hands to lift up a single bolt!!! :haha:

Ultimately, I wanted to make sure that since I was combining the loads from two 3/4" bolts into a single "point-of-failure" it had better be one that had a lot of extra design margin..... I'm sure I could have probably calculated the exact psi rating for TWO Gr-8 3/4" bolts and then match that carefully to a larger (albeit smaller than what I bought) bolt that had similar PSI strength. But this was one of those situations where I looked at available bronze bushings and then went backwards knowing that I could ultimately sleeve all of this inside a slug of 2" DOM that I already had laying in my scrap pile..... by the time you work-out out all the IDs and ODs involved, the bolt needed to be 1-1/2" diameter to work..... oh, and $32! ..... plus an $8 nut to go with it. D'Oh! :doah:


-G
 
Please tell me that you're going to put some speed holes in that crossmember.
 
2013.09.30 - UPDATE! - AIN'T NO SUNSHINE..... :doah:



IMG_7040.jpg





-G

Hey Greg, how did you decide at what angle that you were going to run your ORI's? I'm guessing that they are kicked in a little at the top towards the engine too?
 
Hey Greg, how did you decide at what angle that you were going to run your ORI's? I'm guessing that they are kicked in a little at the top towards the engine too?

Mike,

That's another one of my bad decisions that you should choose not to emulate. :D

I tried to come up with a quick shortcut for the upper mount, and allowed the position of the strut to be dictated by the tube that I was trying to align the strut to... It was substantially canted inward toward the engine block (like negative camber on a tire) I'd guess around 15-20*.... There is a head-on view later in that post that shows it more clearly.

The rearward angle was again dictated by the strut based on how tall it needed to be at static ride height. Since I couldn't get enough of the strut chrome showing at a vertical orientation, I had to keep sliding that saddle bracket higher and higher up the engine tube until I finally got it correct. By then, it was layed-back probably 20* also.

Ultimately, if it had worked on the DS I probably would have left it alone and built my permanent brackets, but since it blocked the steering column anyway I'm going to try for a much more upright config..... maybe 5* of angle in both directions at most. Shock effectiveness does go down at severe angles... but at something like 10 or 15* it's really not all that bad. Since my struts are tunable anyway it would be easy to play with nitrogen pressures if the strut ended up a little softer than normal.

-G
 
I'll just leave this one here for our resident "faste-nerd"...

4090BFE3-FDDD-46BB-9D87-09DE1163DF2F-9836-000007ADEC88C92F_zpsdd82f3b4.jpg



-G
 
HOLY SH*T that's a big bolt!

So...all this tubing, ginormous bolts, and a big block sitting on the front end... what's the rating on those BFGs?
 
HOLY SH*T that's a big bolt!

So...all this tubing, ginormous bolts, and a big block sitting on the front end... what's the rating on those BFGs?

Load range E..... Some thing like 2500 Lbs per corner, I believe. I've still got a few pounds to go! :D

In all seriousness, I actually DO plan to swap out all my suspension links from thick-walled DOM to a 7075 aluminum equivalent. My lower links are 2" x .500" wall and weigh something like 40Lbs each! That's just stupid weight getting piled on the build. Aluminum is a little pricey, but I think it's worth the trouble.... And I can feel better about the occasional uber-bolt that I end up using! :waytogo:

-G
 
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