1.75 .120wall tube sleeved with solid aluminum. Same weight as .250 wall and inThis application much stronger
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
A1971Blazer
1/2 ton status
I'll take it.
I feel like a thread killer in my own build thread lately.Lots of updates and photos and not much in the way of responses.
-G
Sorry.........here's a response.....
My scrap pile ain't got as much steel as what's in your rig.....J/K......keep up the good work on that hillbilly "CNC"
and OOPS you forgot to FLARE HOLE something on that part somewhere....???
Sorry.........here's a response.....
My scrap pile ain't got as much steel as what's in your rig.....J/K......keep up the good work on that hillbilly "CNC"
and OOPS you forgot to FLARE HOLE something on that part somewhere....???
That's not a fair comparison. Your rust holes don't weigh anything......
[snare drum] rim shot [/snare drum]
-G
I'll take it.
I feel like a thread killer in my own build thread lately.
-G
Dude, you can get a lot more replies if you stop with this"I'm building a truck"
stuff and talk more about cookies.
Everyone loves cookies.
Dude, you can get a lot more replies if you stop with this"I'm building a truck"
stuff and talk more about cookies.
Everyone loves cookies.
I'm starting to realize that..... and a Munch-O-Lith is more popular than a Monolith too!
-G
I like your idea and everything is looking good, except the size of your holes look like they severely weakened that rectangular tubing. What if you just mount that rect tube at a slight angle in at the bottom to match the body lines and then leave it there? You could even leave it extra long until your fender opening are done and then blend the lines there as well.
BTW, do you think that boeshield would also work for the top of a table saw? I would like something to protect the table saw and my bender dies without leaving an oily mess. Something wax like sounds good.
BTW, do you think that boeshield would also work for the top of a table saw? I would like something to protect the table saw and my bender dies without leaving an oily mess. Something wax like sounds good.
Heath,
Yeah those through holes are pretty big. We'll have to wait and see if you like the final product once all the remaining structure is added. I could go taller on that tube if I had to, but I'd rather not start over quite yet.
Boeshield should work awesome for a tablesaw. I've used it on mine and it makes the deck nice and slippery. It's supposed to be wood-friendly too. No oils to stain the wood and ruin the finished product.
-G
Yeah those through holes are pretty big. We'll have to wait and see if you like the final product once all the remaining structure is added. I could go taller on that tube if I had to, but I'd rather not start over quite yet.
Boeshield should work awesome for a tablesaw. I've used it on mine and it makes the deck nice and slippery. It's supposed to be wood-friendly too. No oils to stain the wood and ruin the finished product.
-G
Well the holes have tubing welding inside them and will have fairly tight fitting tubing when anything is attached. I personally dont think it will be a big deal.
newbie79
1/2 ton status
Curios to see how the flow masters end up fitting in there. Keep up the great work
I'll have to pick up some of that stuff, thanks for the tip!
Also, those 70 series big block flowmasters are exactly what I run, 3" in/out with a nice deep rumble and no poppy glass pack sound. They barely passed the sound check at silver lake, "over the limit but under the 4dB tolerance" is what I was told...perfect!
I have friends that have been denied access with both 40 and 50 series flows and they just had mild small blocks, so those 70 series do work to quiet the beast, but still let out a roar when you get on the go pedal. (their test is at 2500 RPM in neutral, so its still quite quiet, it gets loud under load) I don't think I would bother with the added weight and complexity of an exhaust bypass valve, if you have a large enough exhaust pipe (at least dual 3" for your engine) you can actually create turbulent flow and reduce the power just by having bypass that is not used because pressure pulses can enter the pipe and then have to bounce back. You may actually make more power with just a smooth pipe through the muffler or open headers obviously. I had a friend with a ~480 hp 427 BBC with a dual 3" mandrel bent exhaust and open cutouts with an electric butterfly valves on his Chevelle and he chassis dynoed the car and it made less than 1 hp difference when he opened the valves to bypass the mufflers. And I believe, based on how his cutouts work, that he would of made more power if they weren't even there, because they are right in a bend and instead of the exhaust having a smooth flow through the bend now they have this turbulent elbow where gas can enter but not flow through. To top it all off, he said he doesn't even like the sound of the car when they are open and I would agree. Open headers sound smoother than a half muffled exhaust, which tends to sound more like a giant leak than a header.
One other thing to mention, it will be difficult to make a weldment that fits precisely into another weldment because of the small warpage you get from welding. It may require machining after its welded to achieve that.
I just re-read what I wrote, sorry, don't mean to sound negative, you are building an awesome rig, you already know that, so let what I say go right in one ear and out the other if you want. Whatever you do, keep on going, the rig is becoming gooder every day!
I'd actually bet that the tube areas will be stronger..
look just about the right size for Oreo ejectors too!
i'd actually bet that the tube areas will be stronger..
Look just about the right size for oreo ejectors too!
yes oh yes
I'll take it.
I feel like a thread killer in my own build thread lately.
-G
Greg, I probably speak for many others as well, by the # of thread views, it gets checked in on often by many...I am just watching in awe most of the time....this is cutting edge stuff for my eyes, and frankly I have nothing tech worthy to add to your build, as your far and above my level of....everything! So as my dad once said "Its better to keep your mouth shut and let people think your stupid, than to open your mouth and prove them right"
Great work man, and innovative as well!
Dude, you can get a lot more replies if you stop with this"I'm building a truck"
stuff and talk more about cookies.
Everyone loves cookies.
Yeah, I keep waiting for that too!
I'd actually bet that the tube areas will be stronger..
look just about the right size for Oreo ejectors too!
wahoo, I'll be the test target!
I just re-read what I wrote, sorry, don't mean to sound negative, you are building an awesome rig, you already know that, so let what I say go right in one ear and out the other if you want. Whatever you do, keep on going, the rig is becoming gooder every day!
Heath,
Don't ever worry about that.... I really appreciate the feedback I get here from you and others here, and I'm still learning all the time. The space is really tight for my electric cut outs idea anyway, so hearing that I can safely skip it is helpful...
I noticed that flowmaster makes an 80-series muffler for BBCs too but it only comes in 2.5" versions, not 3"...
-G
Bigblue7-2
1/2 ton status
Not sure I have said anything yet, but your thread is like my daily movie clip!! Definitely an inspiration to us all! Thanks for the advice on my early stages as well!!
Keep up the sick work!
Keep up the sick work!
This thread consistently makes me think too much. That is all.
Greg, if you're planning on running dual exhaust you sure DON'T want dual 3" exhaust, way too big and not enough backpressure. Going dual with 2.5" exhaust on a BBC would be perfect though.
Interesting.
The official GM documents for their 502 crate motors specify 1-7/8" primaries, 36" long into a 3.5" collector....then 3" exhaust all the way out the back.
-G
The official GM documents for their 502 crate motors specify 1-7/8" primaries, 36" long into a 3.5" collector....then 3" exhaust all the way out the back.
-G
Go with the 3" duals. Flowmasters are super easy to modify for bigger tube. (Done 3 pair myself) The reducer cone is the only difference between the different size mufflers, mark it where the 3" hits the cone, cut and either weld in to the pipe... or weld on V bands!
