CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Greg posted pics with his last reply. :confused:
Well, He most certainly did. I didn't see any the first time I loaded the page. Not even any busted links or red X's.

I'm using satellite and Firefox... Oh well!!!
 
I hope that everyone following this thread realizes that they are getting a world-class education, (with pictures & explanation), that people would pay thousands of dollars for. I am truly humbled by the amount of thought & fabricating skill that has been shown on this build up.

Greg, you totally know your s***!!

Just had to give some props here.

:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:

Later,
Buddy
 
I hope that everyone following this thread realizes that they are getting a world-class education, (with pictures & explanation), that people would pay thousands of dollars for. I am truly humbled by the amount of thought & fabricating skill that has been shown on this build up.

Greg, you totally know your s***!!

Just had to give some props here.

:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:

Later,
Buddy

Correction:
He's learning his ****.
He knew very little when he started but has learned everything he had to to get where he is, and still is learning to get to the finish line. :D
 
I paid the brokerage fees and picked these up from UPS last night. I've been looking at CNC-porn ever since.... :woot:


Exaxt 8-Lug conversion parts for Unimog 404:

DSC02508.jpg



I've still got three more unopened boxes with the same stuff inside....




:usaflag:
 
Don't worry......it wasn't real money, it was all Canadian dollars!!! :D




:usaflag:
 
2010.03.01 - UPDATE! - SHOVE IT!

I'm out of space (again).

The project has reached a point where I really need to get to the centermost part of the frame to get the crossmembers designed and built, and crawling around under the body and banging my head on it has gotten really old.

Tonight, I had no choice but to reconfigure the Man Space to get myself a few extra feet of working room....

Step 1: Move toolbox and drillpress from end wall... this allowed me to roll the body about 6 more feet until I basically hit the back wall of the garage.

DSC02552.jpg


Unfortunately, this move alone did not get me enough real working space so I had the unfortunate task of moving the frame ALL the way back to the rollup door..... which meant that I had to re-level and re-plumb the frame, and set the correct frame height all over again. What a hassle... :doah:

At least I was able to get a nice side-profile of the lower suspension links and frame for reference later on....

DSC02555.jpg


The payoff at least, was that now I had great access to the center of the frame where the lower rear links will be converging, as well as the lower front links. This will make it substantially easier to plan for the crossmember and check various clearances.

DSC02554.jpg


It was also a good time to double-check all of my bodymount specs to insure that the spacing was exactly as described in the Factory Manual. With some scrap lumber and ratchet straps it didn't take long to get each position accurate to within 1/8" of the original spec.

DSC02560.jpg



It's been tedious getting all of this stuff rearranged, but the alternative of crawling under the tub for the next few months was even worse... progress should start to get quicker again now that I've got a simpler work environment.


:usaflag:
 
That piece where your two links meet up near the crossmember looks new?

Well i'm assuming he is doing a little more "behind the scenes" work than he is posting about. If he stopped to update us on every little thing he did Greg would be lucky to make Moab by 2018. :D
 
Make sure the body mounts on the body side match up with the specs as well. It would suck to get everything dialed in to spec on the frame only to find out the body doesn't match for some reason.
 
That's a good point....! :waytogo:

BTW -> Are you interested in helping me solve an engineering problem? Should be simple for someone with an M.E. background. :deal:


:usaflag:
 
OK, to anyone out there who wants to play along here is Problem #1 of two.... this is the simpler of the two but equally important:

My current link suspension design shows that the lower links can each support 58,642 psi (Loaded in compression) the Evolution Heims are rated at ~120,000 psi each and have a 3/4 through-hole for the bolt.

How do I calculate the following:

1. Appropriate thickness of link tabs for each end to maintain my current factors of safety (Roughly 6G's) on each link. Empirically, most people seem to use 1/4" mild steel for a mounting tab in this application, but I'd like to know how to actually calculate how strong that will be, and if it's appropriately sized or not.

2. Material around through-hole in mounting tabs - Usually my rule of thumb for holes is that I leave at least as much material around the hole as the hole size itself. In the case of a 3/4" through-hole, I'd make sure to leave at least 3/4" of metal all the way around, and in many cases it would end up being more. I'm not sure how to calculate the loads that would distort the hole or that could potentially tear the link end right through the tab and "blow out" one side of the tab. Perhaps this is unlikely and the more common failure mode is more of a torsional load that twists the mount out of position and "pretzels" it instead? In any case, again I'd like to know how to calculate proper sizing of the material AROUND a hole to insure that the link ends are properly sized to prevent damage or outright failures.

I expect some really awesome-looking formulas and Excel spreadsheets will ensue. :D



:thinking:




:usaflag:
 
Damn Greg, you aren't building a space shuttle brother. I do agree about the material around the bolt being at least the diameter of the bolt hole. As far as the material thickness i would go a minimum of 3/8".
 
Typical hot rolled carbon steel plate (A283 Gr.D) has a yield strength of 33,000 psi. You will likely want to be using 4130 or equivalent steel though which has a yield strength of around 50kpsi. But looking at it with regular hot rolled carbon steel:

With 1/4" plate, using your 3/4" hole & 3/4" worth of material on each side you end up with .375 sq-in of material. Theoretically this will support just over 12k pounds straight pull (tension) on each side for a total of 24k lbs for a typical setup. 6x SF brings you down to ~4k pounds per mount.

With 3/8" plate, with the same 3/4" hole & 3/4" material on each side, you end up with .5625 sq-in and a tensile load capacity of 18.5k pounds per side; totaling out at 37k pounds. 6x SF brings you down to ~6k pounds for each link.

Again, this is in tension where practically all of your load is being put directly on the smallest cross section of each of the tabs. In compression, things would be a bit different, its more forgiving due to most mounts getting larger/stronger where they attach. If you design the mount to withstand the load in tension, it should have no problem withstanding it in compression.

Throw in the fact that the mount will probably not be straight with the link which requires further bracing, the attachment method and bracing should be the real focus on the mount design.

Is your quoted 59kpsi equate to the buckling strength of the link tubing given the length?
 
Last edited:

Latest Posts

Top Bottom