Page 14...... wow.
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
- Would need to figure out the best method for welding the new outer sleeve. Should I do just the ends, or maybe cut some holes along the length of it and do some rosette welds to joint the two tubes in more places?
- The other option would be to slice the outer tube longitudinally and make it a bolt-together setup with a truss incorporated with it. This would eliminate the worries about warping the housing by doing a lot of welding on it, and I wouldn't need to buy an alignment bar, and/or build a massive axle fixture to lock the axle down for welding.
The cutting longitudinally is the best way, done that to sleeve a tie rod.
You end up with a single line weld on one side and then you can do some holes and rosettes on the other side or even all around.
I might start finally building my own project, now that I found my candidate, picking it up today.
It will be a while before I have a post about it but I will soon.
Greg, this is a VERY BAD idea. The reason is that you would end up with all of your link brackets welded to the 4" tube and if that tube isn't welded pretty solid then you'll end up spinning the actual diff/axle tubes within the 4" outer tube. Think about how much torque transfer there will be with link brackets on the outer tube and the rotational forces from the gears/portals trying to rotate the diff.
You need to find out if the spidertrax housing uses DOM tube or Chromoly. Chromoly is much stronger than DOM.
You need to find out if the spidertrax housing uses DOM tube or Chromoly. Chromoly is much stronger than DOM.
2010.09.25 - UPDATE! - INSTALLING THE OBSTACLES...
To build a front suspension, it's important to know where the available space is, and more importantly where there ISN'T space to locate the links. Today, I modified and re-installed my original front crossmember (under the rad support area) and was able to remove the lumber spacers and ratchet straps that were holding the dimensions up front.
With that out of the way, I had enough time to get the motor up and into position (once I removed the headers. They had NO chance to fit between my boxed framerails
)
Couple quick shots.....
Next up will be a custom engine crossmember to hold the engine permanently in place, then it will be time to load the empty axle housing into position and see how tight everything looks.
To build a front suspension, it's important to know where the available space is, and more importantly where there ISN'T space to locate the links. Today, I modified and re-installed my original front crossmember (under the rad support area) and was able to remove the lumber spacers and ratchet straps that were holding the dimensions up front.
With that out of the way, I had enough time to get the motor up and into position (once I removed the headers. They had NO chance to fit between my boxed framerails
) Couple quick shots.....
Next up will be a custom engine crossmember to hold the engine permanently in place, then it will be time to load the empty axle housing into position and see how tight everything looks.
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this thing just keepts getting more and more impressive.
bronc3buster842001
1/2 ton status
Is it just me or the pic playing tricks, but that engine hoist looks a little unhappy having a big block hanging off it.
The extension boom has a pretty sloppy fit to the fixed portion, so when you let it way out (1/2 Ton) setting it really shows the sloppiness.
As always seems to be the case, the jackstands holding up the frame always seem to be in the exact wrong spot when I want to roll the hoist into position and I can never get a straight shot to where I want to go.
As always seems to be the case, the jackstands holding up the frame always seem to be in the exact wrong spot when I want to roll the hoist into position and I can never get a straight shot to where I want to go.
doing a little bench pressing?
I vote truss, not sleeve for the axle. 
2010.09.27 - UPDATE! - ENGINE CROSSMEMBER AND THE NEXT CHALLENGE...
Spent some time this evening welding up my modified engine crossmember, and adding some triangulating plates to each side. Welded it inside and outside to be confident that it's never going to break.
Installed and a shot from the underside....
The next challenge.... getting a front axle under the engine and framerails and somehow find 6" of uptravel too!
The pumpkin needs to be offset to the passenger side as far as necessary to avoid hitting the oilpan, and it might even make sense to take advantage of the angles in the centersection. If I place them just right, it might allow for articulation up just under the framerail and perhaps keep the frame modifications to a minimum?
This side shot shows a bit more of the challenge. The axle sits a lot higher than usual because of the portal housings, so getting bump travel is a lot harder than it usually should be.
This represents the true axle height for the project. The clearance under the oilpan looks reasonable, but the hardest part will definitely be finding just the right location for the pumpkin to maximize clearances and still get a driveshaft to reach it.
Spent some time this evening welding up my modified engine crossmember, and adding some triangulating plates to each side. Welded it inside and outside to be confident that it's never going to break.
Installed and a shot from the underside....
The next challenge.... getting a front axle under the engine and framerails and somehow find 6" of uptravel too!
The pumpkin needs to be offset to the passenger side as far as necessary to avoid hitting the oilpan, and it might even make sense to take advantage of the angles in the centersection. If I place them just right, it might allow for articulation up just under the framerail and perhaps keep the frame modifications to a minimum?
This side shot shows a bit more of the challenge. The axle sits a lot higher than usual because of the portal housings, so getting bump travel is a lot harder than it usually should be.
This represents the true axle height for the project. The clearance under the oilpan looks reasonable, but the hardest part will definitely be finding just the right location for the pumpkin to maximize clearances and still get a driveshaft to reach it.
Lookin good dude! I look forward to the progression of the front suspension
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Greg..
I love your patience on this build and your ryoken style attention to detail
I I do not see this with a feature in crawl or some mag I will be pissed! Amazing, ok back to watching and thinking about what to do about my busted ass truck
I love your patience on this build and your ryoken style attention to detail
I I do not see this with a feature in crawl or some mag I will be pissed! Amazing, ok back to watching and thinking about what to do about my busted ass truck
Last post on this massive thread was 7 months ago...man got some reading to catch up on.
Stunning work Greg.
Stunning work Greg.
This is NOT the case. I've cut up several 14b's over the years and every one of them has had .250 wall tubes. A D60 rear I cut up had .375 wall tubes. I used to have a picture showing this, but it's on my computer that's in storage back in the states. I'll bust it out when I get back.
Hey Kurt good to see you back around here...
The progress is never as fast as I want, but there are distractions everywhere. Yesterday when you called I was crawling around in the attic pretending I was an HVAC expert.....assembling supply plenums, routing ducts, cutting holes in the ceilings for vents, etc. Now I understand why they charge so much for labor to do this stuff. It's a serious hassle!
With any luck I will complete the attachment of all the remaining outlets to the supply plenums today, install in-line dampers and get everything wrapped with insulation. Then I can leave the attic for good and spend a fun day in the garage tomorrow.
Of course, I still need to install ductwork into all the rooms in the downstairs at some point soon also...
bronc3buster842001
1/2 ton status
What mounts did you use for the motor.
2010.10.04 - UPDATE! - PORTAL ASSEMBLY...
Before I can get the axletube cut down to length to set my final track width, I need to get the final dimensions of the portal housings and 8-lug disc brake conversions.
Here's a shot of the portal backing plate all cleaned up and ready for paint.
Ryoken Green:
New bearings and the large bottom gear...
Trying out the intermediate Unimog axle spacer for the rear axle. Not sure if I'll end up using this in the final setup or not.
Pressing on the hub....
Breaking my cheap cast iron Harbor Freight press plates.... Time for something more "serious".
Before I can get the axletube cut down to length to set my final track width, I need to get the final dimensions of the portal housings and 8-lug disc brake conversions.
Here's a shot of the portal backing plate all cleaned up and ready for paint.
Ryoken Green:
New bearings and the large bottom gear...
Trying out the intermediate Unimog axle spacer for the rear axle. Not sure if I'll end up using this in the final setup or not.
Pressing on the hub....
Breaking my cheap cast iron Harbor Freight press plates.... Time for something more "serious".
wow, that MSI piece is sexy.. looks very well-machined...
