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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
76zimmer said:
very nicely done Greg....I was thinking the "soda" can was holding up the axle...

So would that be the fully compressed location of the axle?
Click to expand...


Dave,

It's hard to believe, but that is not fully compressed (bump travel).... That photo is ACTUAL RIDE HEIGHT!! :bow:

That's the clearance the truck will have just rolling down the road (or trail). On a trail littered with medium size rocks, most of them will just pass directly underneath without touching at all. I'm loving the look of the axle clearance (from the rear) and the flat belly pan clearance view (from the side). Eventually, on a real world trail EVERYONE runs out of clearance...but I am encouraged by the clearance I'm getting with a relatively modest lift. :thumb:

-G
 
Greg,

Man, everything looks so awesome. I caught your first upload on my phone with the vid. Before I even clicked on your photobucket, I knew what song would be kickin' from your Manspace.. A little Dio singing, "Holy Diver" is always some good, "I just made this piece my bitch and it look awesome" tune... :saweet::saweet:

Way to keep after it with all of the research and thought. You gotta be so frickin' excited about now.. :woot::woot:


Great Job..:waytogo:

oh..

 
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Thanks everyone for the kind words.... :bow:

I reloaded the video to YouTube and they were able to remove most of the shakiness, though there are now some geometric distortions as the video pans around. Overall, it does seem more watchable though. :D

I went back and swapped out a few of the original fuzzy pics for some clearer ones and added a couple new "bonus" images that were not up there last night. See if you can figure out which ones....

I'm definitely super-stoked about the progress. Realistically, I need to pull the axle back out from under there to work on it some more. But, I wanted to give you guys the "money shot" as I'd originally promised.

Next steps: Finish painting all the brake parts, drill out backing plates for the installation of the rotating union (for CTIS feature) then re-assemble portals and bolt to axle. Also on the list is a set of mounting points for the ORI struts so I can bolt them to both the axle and the rear frame/cage area and remove those rear jackstands once-and-for-all!!! :saweet:


-G
 
Wow Greg, it just looked to me like the links were all the way up on their travel, but I didn't watch the video yet either (too long for my slow home service to load it) but as usual, your work sets the bar pretty dam high!
 
I will add that as far as shimming the heim brackets is concerned, the "sweet spot" seemed to be .020" overall (.010" per side). I bought some .010" brass sheet stock from McMaster-Carr and cut 2" coupons out of it after pre-drilling the 5/8" and 3/4" through-holes. The material is a bit soft when drilling, but otherwise worked great.

Once everything was finish-welded and cooled, I unbolted the heims and removed the shims... when I went to install under the truck the heims slid into position with just the slightest amount of extra clearance. Not enough to really even wiggle the heim around in an obvious way, but enough to make assembly easy. Tightening the bolt down sucked out all of the clearance and gave me a nice uniform clamping load on both sides of the heim. It's a small detail in the grand scheme of this build, but I'm glad I took a few extra minutes to shim things before final welding... and of course, now I've got shims for the front axle when the time comes.

I also just did a re-order on a bunch of 3M Scotchbrite discs (2" and 3" roloc). I normally use the crimson (medium) ones, but I ordered up a few of the brown (coarse) ones too just to see if I like them for heavier deburring and/or rust removal and paint prep stuff.

-G
 
Officially on its own tires.... :waytogo:


73b58941.jpg



ba7ef47d.jpg



-G
 
Looking good Greg. My biggest regret is you moving to the wrong coast and me not having a physical hand in the making of the beast.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Looking good Greg. My biggest regret is you moving to the wrong coast and me not having a physical hand in the making of the beast.
Click to expand...


Hmmm....

Well, you built the entire 502BBC in your garage and shipped it here..... Built me a set of hydro bender arms so that I could get the rollcage built, sent me a super-thick set of press plates to replace my Chiwanese HF ones... And were instrumental in the design and machining of the front and rear Unimog 404 adapters.

Without your help (even if it is from 3100 miles away) this project would never have gotten this far. :bow::bow::bow:

That being said, I agree that it would be a lot more fun if there was a way to have you in the shop working through this stuff with me.



-G
 
Well that was short-lived..... :)


IMG_2376.jpg



I spoke with my local machinist friend this AM and he said that if I could bring him the parts TODAY, he would machine all the backing plates (Qty 4) for the CTIS unions and also cut down the eXaXt wheel spacers from 1" (original size) to the 3/8" thickness that I'd prefer. So, basically I had to go home and quickly disassemble those rear portals and get them off the truck so he'd have parts to work with. The good news is that I should have everything back by Friday so I can do some more painting and re-assembly work.

Some things are universal whether you are on the east coast or west coast.... I get to pay him for his time with a nice steak dinner!! :waytogo:


-G
 
Jeebus! It's ... Beautiful. Epic. Poetic. Imaginative. Evocative. Iconic.

And that's just the music.

The axle is kinda sweet though :haha: I :bow: to your superior skillz and patience.

-- A
 
Greg72 said:
Well that was short-lived..... :)


IMG_2376.jpg



I spoke with my local machinist friend this AM and he said that if I could bring him the parts TODAY, he would machine all the backing plates (Qty 4) for the CTIS unions and also cut down the eXaXt wheel spacers from 1" (original size) to the 3/8" thickness that I'd prefer. So, basically I had to go home and quickly disassemble those rear portals and get them off the truck so he'd have parts to work with. The good news is that I should have everything back by Friday so I can do some more painting and re-assembly work.

Some things are universal whether you are on the east coast or west coast.... I get to pay him for his time with a nice steak dinner!! :waytogo:


-G
Click to expand...

Thats a good friend to have right there...reminds me of my T400 incident in the Maiden...Coan says "can you have it here by 8 in the AM?"
Sure let me tear it out, AGAIN, this afternoon, get up at 4am to get it to ya on time...But it works like a champ now...

Moral is, make the sacrifice to take advantage of a great offer when you can.
 
I'm trying to learn more about Metric vs. SAE Bolt Grading......

Here is a table built from data I found online:

BoltGrades2.jpg



The Mog stuff is all metric (yuck!) and as I get ready to re-assemble the parts I am tempted to replace some of the existing fasteners with good quality, high-strength stainless stuff from ARP. I hate rusty fasteners, and this would give me a good opportunity to swap in some good stuff.

The perimeter bolts that hold the backing plate to the portal box are:

M10 x 1.5 x 35mm - Stamping on bolt head: "8G"

This seems to translate to not quite a Grade 5 (SAE) strength bolt....correct?


There are some cap screws that were part of the new disc brake conversion that are:

M10 x 1.5 x 65mm - Stamping on bolt head: "12.9"

I'm not sure yet what that translates to for tensile strength (psi)


Basically, I want to ensure that any bolt I remove gets replaced by something at LEAST as strong as what I took out. So I'll be scouring the ARP catalog to verify that the bolts I'm interested meet the minimum spec. ARP offers quite a few different variations of "stainless" so I need to study-up a bit more to understand which formulations are appropriate and will resist corrosion.



-G
 
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