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2014.11.02 - UPDATE! - DOM DA-DOM....DOM DOMMMMM!!!!!

YESSSS!!!! :waytogo:

The 1.75" DOM finally arrived in my shop!!!

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I have never been so happy to write an $818 check in my life. :haha: The only downside (other than the fact that it was delivered in the pouring rain) is that the tubing is about 22' long, and my garage is only 24' deep!!!!

This makes for some challenges in the workspace, so even though I really wanted to just dig right in and BUILD.... what I really had to do was get this tubing wiped down with WD-40 (to keep it from immediately rusting) and then get it stored up off the floor so that it wouldn't get ruined and/or trip me every time I tried to work.

For those O.G. members of CK5 you might recognize the rack system in the following photo. This was a setup that was in my California workshop back in the early 2000's. When I left, I unbolted them from the walls and brought them with me to NH.... They've been sitting in my attic, for years and honestly I didn't think I ever make use of them. That all changed yesterday.

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I had to remove a few shelves from my floor-to-ceiling storage area to get the racks installed, but it was well worth it. This time around, I also changed up the spacing a little on the far side so that I could store smaller (6 - 8 foot) pieces of tubing as well. Those smaller pieces tend to waste a lot of floorspace as well.

Honestly, I spend almost the entire day just installing the racks and getting the tubing loaded onto it....then cleaning up the shop in preparation for the "REAL" work ahead. Finally, after dinner I was able to set up the welder and burn-in the inner rockslider on the driver's side of the truck and confirm that it was 100% level all the way across the underside of the truck. Both rocksliders and the framerails are all in perfect alignment now, and someday there will be an absolutely MASSIVE skidplate running across this entire truck!

If you look carefully, you can see the inner rocksliders on both sides at the edges of the photograph.... :waytogo:

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Once that was completed, it was time to take the first fresh piece of DOM down off the racks, and start cutting it up for the OUTER rockslider fabrication. I started by cutting five 12" long sections to slide into the index holes, leaving me with a piece of tube that was still really long, but at least manageable to move around the shop.

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The first of those small sections is shown here (in the rearmost position of the 5 mounting holes). In reality, it will take quite a bit of careful finessing with a flaproll on the inside of those 2" tubes to remove material and get the fitment JUST RIGHT. Not too loose, not too tight. I want to make all the adjustments on the inner rockslider receiver tubes so that I can use the existing 1.75" DOM "as is".... this will make it easier when I build the rocksliders and the adapter that allows me to install the factory outer rocker too. I don't want to hand-fit each tube for each accessory item that I build.... If I build the receivers (holes) with the correct tolerances, any piece of DOM that I use will always fit perfectly from then on! :waytogo:

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So here's a quick shot to show the relative height of the rockslider to the truck. Remember that the truck is actually at "full bump" in this picture... the ORIs up front are completely bottomed-out. Obviously, the rockslider won't stick out this far (about 12") but I will try to make sure that it ends up sticking out far enough to be truly functional and not just a cosmetic piece.... making it generously wide also helps to insure that the rockslider will make a really nice, convenient step into the truck!... :D

So tonight..... a couple hours of tedious flaproll work, a little tube notching... and if I'm lucky maybe a bit of hydraulic tube bending as well.... :popcorn:

-G
 
'72 K5 - Greg's "Might As Well™" Build - !!! DOM DA-DOM...DOM DOMMMM!!!

Greg,

Is wonder if instead of using flaprolls to open up the inside of the 2" tube, you could use some kind of plug like those exhaust tubing spreaders to keep the tube from shrinking after welding it?

I mention this because the inside of the tube I flap-rolled for my rear seat is a pain to keep from rusting. The little grooves from the sandpaper score the inside of the tube just enough to let moisture and rust hide and spread even with a coat of lube every few months. A thin aluminum sleeve might even be a better option.
 
Greg,

Is wonder if instead of using flaprolls to open up the inside of the 2" tube, you could use some kind of plug like those exhaust tubing spreaders to keep the tube from shrinking after welding it?

Don't know about that..... :dunno:

On paper, a 2" x .125" wall tube SHOULD be exactly 1.75" I.D. but as we all know... it's not quite a perfect slip-fit. Once you do some welding of course, it gets even worse.

Right now, I only have 4 tack welds on each side of that sleeve tube. When I take everything apart for final welding, I expect that I'll TIG the perimeter of those holes instead of MIG. That should help me to control the heat a little better, but I'm sure there will still be some shrinking and I'll need to "fine tune" those holes AGAIN before final paint.

At this point, I'm more concerned about getting the sliders designed and built so that I can work on how to rework the sheetmetal in the surrounding areas so that it looks good. The biggest challenge will be getting the outer rockers set up properly so that they are truly removeable but still look correct and seal the door properly across the bottom to keep water and mud out.



-G
 
Don't know about that..... :dunno:

On paper, a 2" x .125" wall tube SHOULD be exactly 1.75" I.D. but as we all know... it's not quite a perfect slip-fit. Once you do some welding of course, it gets even worse.


-G

You could use some 2" OD x 11 gauge, it's .120 wall.

BTW, I see you said TIG, did you decide to get one of the new Synchrowave 210s?
 
You could use some 2" OD x 11 gauge, it's .120 wall.

BTW, I see you said TIG, did you decide to get one of the new Synchrowave 210s?


Heath,

I'm working a deal on a Dynasty 200DX.... :)

Hopefully I have it before my company shuts down for the Christmas holiday. That will give me lots of time to practice welding soda cans together!

-G
 
Heath,

I'm working a deal on a Dynasty 200DX.... :)

Hopefully I have it before my company shuts down for the Christmas holiday. That will give me lots of time to practice welding soda cans together!

-G

Damn Greg!, a used one or a new one? It's funny you mention soda cans. I think I welded aluminum a grand total of 2 minutes, just some practice beads on 1/8" aluminum plate, didn't even weld two pieces together yet, and I had to go grab some soda cans and try it. So yes, the 1st two pieces of aluminum I ever welded together in my entire life were soda cans. Now, I did leave a couple holes my first try, but they were welded together. You figure, they are free, and good practice, why not use em for it, right?
 
I've got a good lead on a used one through a CK5er.....

Hopefully that works out do I don't have to pay full retail for a new one!

:yikes:


-G
 
Greg, just go to the SEMA show and buy a new one alot cheaper than regular retail pricing. My buddy bought his $1400 Miller plasma cutter a couple years ago at the SEMA show for half price.
 
Don't know about that..... :dunno:

On paper, a 2" x .125" wall tube SHOULD be exactly 1.75" I.D. but as we all know... it's not quite a perfect slip-fit. Once you do some welding of course, it gets even worse.

Right now, I only have 4 tack welds on each side of that sleeve tube. When I take everything apart for final welding, I expect that I'll TIG the perimeter of those holes instead of MIG. That should help me to control the heat a little better, but I'm sure there will still be some shrinking and I'll need to "fine tune" those holes AGAIN before final paint.

At this point, I'm more concerned about getting the sliders designed and built so that I can work on how to rework the sheetmetal in the surrounding areas so that it looks good. The biggest challenge will be getting the outer rockers set up properly so that they are truly removeable but still look correct and seal the door properly across the bottom to keep water and mud out.



-G

OK, you're gonna have HOW many tubes that you're gonna have to slide through on each side at the same time after welding them all on to the outer tube........ with that tight of clearance on each one?
Don't mean to be a doubter.........I wish you the VERY BEST of luck on that.....
 
Greg, just go to the SEMA show and buy a new one alot cheaper than regular retail pricing. My buddy bought his $1400 Miller plasma cutter a couple years ago at the SEMA show for half price.

The one I'm looking for is:

Miller Dynasty 200 DX Complete TIG Package (miller part #951139). Do you know anyone that is attending the show? I think Pacific Fabrication might be.... I can't think of anyone else I might know there? :thinking:

OK, you're gonna have HOW many tubes that you're gonna have to slide through on each side at the same time after welding them all on to the outer tube........ with that tight of clearance on each one?
Don't mean to be a doubter.........I wish you the VERY BEST of luck on that.....

Yeah....its a tall order. :doah: But "no guts, no glory".... Image how cool it will be if I can pull this off! :waytogo:


-G
 
Yep, ID on DOM tubing always runs a bit on the small side so numerically it sounds right but it never works that way. Heath is right on the money, the .120 wall is perfect for that kind of fit.

I'm wishing you luck on the 5 tubes to slip in simultaneously as well.
 
Well good luck on the used dynasty, I hope you get it. But if you don't the new inverter Synchro 210 will do everything you need it to, and on a 30A circuit. Has upgradeable software and already comes with AC balance from the get go for less than half the cost of the dynasty, it's a giant step up from the diversion series for only a little more money, and still made in the USA. On the other hand, I'm never one to tell someone not to upgrade, so if you got the cash, I am sure you will love a new Dynasty too. But if you are spending the money for a dynasty, why not the 350? :haha: Forget I said that.

I still think you will need to machine those tubes after welding to get them to fit, which may require CNC work since its a tube OD on 5 parallel tubes. And I still think you weakened the tube by drilling 2" holes in a 2.5" square tube. If it was 1", or 1.,25" it would actually be significantly stronger than without the tubes welded inside, but 2" holes leave no flat on the vertical left. However, with all that said, considering the wall thickness and vehicle weight it may still be strong enough for what you want to do anyway, if you can get them to fit.
 
Monday night progress........

Spent some time with my remaining flapwheels clearancing out the two outermost holes so that I could at least start on the rockslider while I wait for my refill order of flapwheels to arrive (today). I initially used DeWalt brand, but now I'm going to try Walter. I like their cutoff discs, maybe the flapwheels will be higher quality too???

Two outer slugs in place... sliding like butta!

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Gave those tubes a quick notch and dropped a 68" long piece of straight tube across them just to see how that would look, and to play around with how far out the tube should sit from the body.

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Not bad. Visually, I liked the look at around 6" from the inner rocker structure to the outside of the slider tube. I didn't like the way that the tube ended about in the middle of the rear tire tread though.... If I was sliding along a tree (or rock) and got into the rear tire with a setup like that, it's pretty certain that my forward progress would stop instantly, or it would start to pull the truck tighter against the obstacle and crush the bedside in the process. :(

The logical answer was to set up my hydro bender and warm up my antique copy of the Bend-Tech software! :waytogo:

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After a couple of 9* offset bends, I was able to kick out the rear of the tube so that it was much better aligned with the sidewall of the rear tire. This will give a much smoother transition for any obstacles that are dragging along the side of the truck in "real life"....

A slightly different view to show the effect of the kickout. (I guess I'll call this the "tree view"....what my obstacles will see as I go by) :haha:

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.....and what update would be complete without a photo of my ratty sneakers standing on the rockslider to see how comfortable it might be once it's plated over and used as a step??? :D

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So far so good. The rockslider is still removable with 2 of the 5 tubes installed.... so I'm at a 40% success rate so far. Getting all 5 in perfect alignment is going to be a lot more work, but I still think I can make it happen....


-G
 
I like your kickout near the rear tire, looks good.

Also, getting them aligned is not the problem, the problem will be after you final weld everything and it all warps a little. And then you spend a bunch of time trying to make it fit, and then the first time you use it it gets "tweaked", and then you are back to fitting again.
 
What is the reason or purpose in making them removable ?

Same reason as making the body panels removable.....

Just want the truck to look "normal" most of the time when I'm driving it. When I get ready for an offroad event, I can do the whole transformer thing and swap painted rocker panels for the sliders.


-G
 

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