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Greg, I can attest to the floorboards getting hot. My 3" pipe is several inches away from the floorboard and it gets pretty hot. If you can leave space for a couple layers of insulating material and air, it shouldn't be too bad. You even have an advantage that they are outboard of the frame rails so they are somewhat separate from the radiator heat getting shoved back against the firewall and under the truck. Just no barefoot driving for long periods. :)

Nice update btw.
 
2015.06.30 - UPDATE! - OREOS AND LEGOS....!!!


More of the same last night.

I needed to fabricate more of those small "LEGO" header bends so that I could continue the mockup of the passenger side header. I decided to do a bunch of 10* ones just to get it over with... As much as I prefer to do segments in either 20* or 30* bend sizes, I really can't get precise enough alignment of the tubes to the collector and can't get parallel tubes truly parallel unless I've got segments with REALLY small angles.

One of the little known facts about header building is that you need a clean work area. It's a lot like engine building in that respect and cleanliness is key. You really can't afford to have dust contaminating your work pieces so it's important to protect the parts you build in whatever manner possible.

I chose to protect my new LEGO segments this way:

IMG_5307.jpg



.....the header collector was especially vulnerable to contamination, so it got a lot of coverage too.

IMG_5309.jpg



:D

Once all of that was taken care of, I moved on to the routing of exhaust #4. This is the other tube that will be on the "bottom" of the collector and sits just outside of the #8 one that I already laid-out. Once again, I didn't have enough straight tube to do the long runs, but the paper actually works pretty well... you can slide it in or out of the other segments to extend or shorten it during test fitting.

IMG_5314.jpg



To get off the head flange at a reasonable approach angle to #8, I actually had to cut a 5* segment to start that run. That seemed to work well and allowed me to wrap the new tube nice and tight to #8 and down to the collector.

IMG_5317.jpg



Outboard headers definitely have a funky, cool "spread eagle" look to them... and I'm digging it so far. :waytogo:


-G
 
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Looking good, should be easy enough to make those bends out of bigger sections, at the end of the day no matter what you a have ton of welding.

Fender well headers are cool because that give a bit of hey how ya doin to the wheel well

image upload free
 
Greg, with the long straight sections at the end, is there any reason you couldn't move the collector further up into the fender well similar to what Classicstyle just posted? Are they longer for a reason?
 
Greg, with the long straight sections at the end, is there any reason you couldn't move the collector further up into the fender well similar to what Classicstyle just posted? Are they longer for a reason?


The GM spec for the 502 tells me to build them with 36" long primaries...

I haven't measured them, but it feels like I'm in that ballpark with the collector in it's current position. If I start moving that collector up toward the engine, I think I'm going to end up with more of a "mid-length" header setup.

:thinking:

-G
 
They are starting to look pretty cool greg. :waytogo:

If you were building the actual headers you wouldn't be limited to the 10 degree segments, you could use 8 or 12 or 17 or whatever. :)

Be careful around that shock, if you droop that side you don't want the shock to hit the header, or is there more clearance than it appears?
 
They are starting to look pretty cool greg. :waytogo:

If you were building the actual headers you wouldn't be limited to the 10 degree segments, you could use 8 or 12 or 17 or whatever. :)

Be careful around that shock, if you droop that side you don't want the shock to hit the header, or is there more clearance than it appears?

Yep, I'm starting to realize that no matter how many 5, 10 and 20* bends I pre-build... odds are good that the final design is going to have a couple of "oddball" angles thrown in the mix as well. Fortunately, that inexpensive marking/cutting fixture makes it pretty easy to make whatever I want quickly.... and I can just throw one of those pre-made alignment collars into it (unwelded) just to do some quick testing. :waytogo:

I'm building the headers with the entire suspension at "full bump" which probably makes it a bit unrealistic (clearancewise). The struts will definitely move toward the engine block under travel/articulation but for now it seems like I'm OK on clearances... it never hurts to remind me about stuff like that though!!! :whistle::eek1:


-G
 
They are starting to look pretty cool greg. :waytogo:

If you were building the actual headers you wouldn't be limited to the 10 degree segments, you could use 8 or 12 or 17 or whatever. :)

Be careful around that shock, if you droop that side you don't want the shock to hit the header, or is there more clearance than it appears?

I was going to mention the mounted tire turning right as well as the shock. But maybe the hole cut in the firewall is where the clearance needs to be for the tire.
 
I was going to mention the mounted tire turning right as well as the shock. But maybe the hole cut in the firewall is where the clearance needs to be for the tire.


Believe it or not, the tire is MILES away.....


IMG_0163.jpg



That's one of the benefits of the portal boxes. The steering arc for the wheel ends up being a bit goofy, but it also ends up being pretty far out away from the frame.


-G
 
The GM spec for the 502 tells me to build them with 36" long primaries...

I haven't measured them, but it feels like I'm in that ballpark with the collector in it's current position. If I start moving that collector up toward the engine, I think I'm going to end up with more of a "mid-length" header setup.

:thinking:

-G
Oh, right, I remember you mentioning that before. :doah: for some reason I was thinking you had the collector that far away simply for ease of getting all the tubes together.
 
Mmmmmm mm cookies!!!!


Me thinks you are Definately going to need some sort of heat sheild. In your situation probably gonna want some sort of air gap. Might wanna think about talking to Jet Hot and see if their coating would help reduce heat transfer. A double walled heat sheild with even a tiny airgap in between the walls would do wonders
 
Are you EFFING kidding me....! I haven't finished the damn bag of chocolate chip cookies I had to buy yet..... The absolute comedic genius of switching cookies mid header fab is some fricken sick twisted aNd SERIOUS Greg capacity sh¡t right there....
DAMNZ YOU GREGGLE!
 
Holy potato I accident ill hit the thread and went to post El número uno.... I about Shiite myself.

All I could think is.... Here we go again.... That sick bastard has gone full!!!!
 
Not yet bro....! It's "Martini Night"!!! :waytogo:

ASDT MNGR!


-G
You rang???

Let's just bump this to Page 47 in anticipation of tonight's progress pics...

:)

image.jpg1_3.jpg




-G

this pic is so full of the awesomer things in life!

2015.06.29 - UPDATE! - DODGED A BULLET...!!!


Seems like it's going to work OK... but I've got some valid concerns about heat transfer to the interior floorboards. I'm going to Jet-Hot the headers for sure, but I may also need to do some localized heat mitigation (gold foil or whatever) in that area too... :thinking:

-G


Greg, I have my pipes wrapped in some titanium wrap...it keeps temps way down, My pipes are within 2" in a few places and there is minimal heat felt on my bare metal floors.

$T2eC16dHJF4FFk+74%29WNBS%21VmizpsQ%7E%7E60_35.JPG


2015.06.30 - UPDATE! - OREOS AND LEGOS....!!!


I chose to protect my new LEGO segments this way:

IMG_5307.jpg



.....the header collector was especially vulnerable to contamination, so it got a lot of coverage too.

IMG_5309.jpg



:D


this thread keeps calling me back, at most opportune times!

next time, Double Stuff, for double the man points!! :pimp:
:waytogo::waytogo::waytogo::waytogo:

Mint oreos FTW!
 
Are you EFFING kidding me....! I haven't finished the damn bag of chocolate chip cookies I had to buy yet..... The absolute comedic genius of switching cookies mid header fab is some fricken sick twisted aNd SERIOUS Greg capacity sh¡t right there....
DAMNZ YOU GREGGLE!


Wait your not supposed to eat the whole bag at once???

:dunno::whistle:
 
Last night's update.....

There's a LOT of good learning going on! :waytogo: I'll share a few "tips" that I've learned about header building that will help other novices who want to give this a try someday.

Rule 1: Bolt in your head flange AND get your collector spot tack-welded exactly where you want it. If you don't clearly define the start and stopping points for your tubes, you'll never be able to run multiple tubes simultaneously and land them with any amount of precision...

Rule 2: It seems to be easier to work from the ends of the runner and meet "in the middle" than it is to try to build in one-direction (either head flange to collector, or collector to head flange). This is especially true if you have a long straight section that needs to be precisely aligned like I'm trying for.... because:

Rule 3: Make sure that the "mock up" materials are rigid enough not to flex, and fit tightly enough that they don't sag out of position. All you end up doing is wasting time. Here's a perfect example of what NOT to do:

IMG_5326.jpg


I was "sleeving" my collector with craft paper, and when the weight of my bends started to buckle them, I used old papertowel and wrapping paper rolls. But since they didn't fit snugly into the collector tubes, they still shifted too far out-of-position to give me useful target points to aim for with my bend sections.

The solution was to slice a few cardboard tubes lengthwise and then sleeve them together with the open seams at 180* opposite from each other. I kept adding sleeves until the fit into the collector was REALLY snug and it made a HUGE difference....especially when it came time to fit up the 2nd & 3rd primary tubes.

Rule 4: Work across the bottom of the collector first (#8 and #4), then work on the two top tubes (#6 & #2). It kind of makes sense to build the primary tubes that will go on the bottom FIRST, since you are unlikey to have a path to get down there once you add the two upper primary tubes. By placing the bottom ones first, you reserve the space you need immediately and whatever space you are left with becomes your upper primary routing spot.

Here's how the tubes ended up looking at the end of last night. The clearance around the strut looks pretty decent to me....

IMG_5329.jpg



From this side-view you can really see the benefit of having rigid tubes going in to the collector area. In the previous photos, those tubes were drooping and sagging and I was getting nowhere on the design.

The alignment of the primary tubes into the collector ended up really nice and parallel... even though I was using cardboard. Once this is rendered in stainless, of course I can get this alignment even more crisp and perfect!

IMG_5341.jpg



...and finally, a view from a few feet away to show the overall effect of the outboard headers! :saweet:


IMG_5346.jpg



It's hard to find a camera angle that really shows how cool all of the primary tubes look, but as you walk-around in person and look at the routing of the exhaust it is REALLY awesome and fun to see it snaking around and spilling out over the top of the framerail.... :D

This exhaust project is turning out to be every bit as fun as I imagined it would be!!! :waytogo:

-G
 
As always, this build makes me shake my head at how dedicated you are to building EXACTLY what you want. So freaking cool Greg. [emoji144]
 

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