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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Speaking of extra leverage, would it make sense to use one of the stainless steel mesh joints after the collector so you can secure that long straight pipe where it needs to be without allowing the engine movement to wiggle it too much?
 
It's probably due to my brain not being on all the way, not that I missed it earlier in the thread, but what are your plans for floor support now that you ripped that cab support out? And what are your plans for heat shielding with the headers tucked so tight into the footwell? Mine gets crazy warm on the tootsies and it's nowhere near that tight.
 
bp71k5 said:
Speaking of extra leverage, would it make sense to use one of the stainless steel mesh joints after the collector so you can secure that long straight pipe where it needs to be without allowing the engine movement to wiggle it too much?
Click to expand...

Brian,

That photo is a bit misleading. The new long section really won't be very long. Maybe only 6" past where the collector bend becomes a straight shot down the framerail. The actual muffler will be in that area. I will weld in my new Vibrant clamps at the end of the collector so the headers are easily removable, and I will come up with a hanger system in that area so the weight of the exhaust is not pulling on the headers and trying to crack them.


Z71paramedic said:
It's probably due to my brain not being on all the way, not that I missed it earlier in the thread, but what are your plans for floor support now that you ripped that cab support out? And what are your plans for heat shielding with the headers tucked so tight into the footwell? Mine gets crazy warm on the tootsies and it's nowhere near that tight.
Click to expand...

Sean,

It's a good question. There is SO little left of the original floor now that it's just a patchwork of scabbed-together patches. I think I'm just going to buy a complete reproduction floor section and just start over. For sure I will need to build some low-profile u-shaped supports on the underside to support the floors. They won't be structural per se (as they were originally) but I still don't want them flopping or deflecting when people step on them.


-G
 
Why buy an OG floor do you need to bolt the seats in the stock holes :rolleyes: Just build one. If you buy one you are going to mod it anyway so start with a custom anyway.
 
I really like them Greg, I think they look trick, nice work.

Remember to droop the opposite side when you are checking clearances at stuff.
 
folkenheath said:
I really like them Greg, I think they look trick, nice work.

Remember to droop the opposite side when you are checking clearances at stuff.
Click to expand...


Thanks Heath!

Yeah, I still need to do that clearance test (DS fully-drooped), but I feel pretty confident I've got it right this time. The closer your possible interferences are the to TOP of the tire, the more likely that you'll have issues. The collector area is down near the wheel/tire centerline so I think the changes when fully articulated SHOULD be minimal??? :thinking:

I'm trying to decide if it's worth the trouble to pull the truck out of the garage and try to turn it around by myself in the driveway so that I can pull it in backwards to start work on the driver's side header. If nothing else, it would be a nice visual change-of-pace and would give my viewers something new to look at!!!!



-G
 
Greg72 said:
I'm trying to decide if it's worth the trouble to pull the truck out of the garage and try to turn it around by myself in the driveway so that I can pull it in backwards to start work on the driver's side header. If nothing else, it would be a nice visual change-of-pace and would give my viewers something new to look at!!!!
-G
Click to expand...
It's been my general experience that spending a little time to make life easier is always worth it. Every time I've felt like taking off 1 more panel, moving the truck, going and getting the "right" tool, etc was just too much of a pain in the ass, I've regretted not doing it. Think about how much time you'll be spending on that side... Taking 1/2 hour to move the truck around will be worth the hassle. Plus, there are lots of other things you've only done to the passenger side that you could get to as well. :P
 
ashman said:
It's been my general experience that spending a little time to make life easier is always worth it. Every time I've felt like taking off 1 more panel, moving the truck, going and getting the "right" tool, etc was just too much of a pain in the ass, I've regretted not doing it. Think about how much time you'll be spending on that side... Taking 1/2 hour to move the truck around will be worth the hassle. Plus, there are lots of other things you've only done to the passenger side that you could get to as well. :p
Click to expand...

Very true.... The drivers side is actually pretty far behind on bedside work too. Hmmm...

-G
 
It was a rainy day yesterday, so there was no chance to get the truck out of the garage to turn it around.

I did the next best thing, and moved the truck back a few feet toward the garage door to create more working space around the front of the truck.


To begin on the driver's side header the steering shaft needs to be installed to "block out" that space from the tube routing. I took a few measurements and photos so confirm what I think I need to order:

At the steering box: 3/4" diameter.... (Splines with a huge flat side machined in "D-shape" design)??

IMG_7083.jpg



And at the steering column: 3/4" diameter, 36-spline:

IMG_7086.jpg



I'd really like to get those parts ordered, so if anyone can confirm that I've named these correctly I'd appreciate it. :waytogo:

Moving on to the part that I can do now, I spent some time flaring the tubing to match the square-flange at the cylinder head.

IMG_7096.jpg



I has having a LOT of trouble with the tubing splitting at the welded seam. It turned out that the location of the seam on the forming die makes a BIG difference. When I lined up the seam in the middle of the "flat" side of the square it would split every time. When I put that seam in the corner instead it seemed to work MUCH better... I used a little bit of cutting fluid on the inside of the tube as well just to reduce the friction during the forming process.

The fitment to the flange was insanely good (Hella Tight!) so I threw a few tacks on each segment, and bolted them up to the engine.

IMG_7103.jpg



On this side, it seems like I can replicate the #8 design for #7, and the #2 design for #1... the trickiest one looks like it's going to be #3... just because of how close it dumps out to the steering shaft.... :thinking: I won't know for sure until I get the REAL parts installed and start putting some tube in there!!


-G
 
Just remember if the steering shaft bones you too hard, you can always add in a u-joint midstream to help get the angles you need. But hopefully it won't come to that.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Just remember if the steering shaft bones you too hard, you can always add in a u-joint midstream to help get the angles you need. But hopefully it won't come to that.
Click to expand...

My "mock up" steering shaft seems to make it with a straight shot without a problem. The offset angle isn't too bad. I still want a collapsible section in the actual shaft so that I don't get skewered by the steering wheel if I ever get in a major wreck....


-G
 
mtnman said:
I can't imagine the wreck it would take to crush 10,000 pounds of tubing, big block and Dana 60 enough to make a collapsible steering shaft worthwhile.....
Click to expand...

I've watched enough of those YouTube videos that show the old-timey cars in D.O.T. tests (usually against modern cars) to know that even a heavily reworked 1972 truck isn't a very safe place to be.... :yikes:

The protection from the new engine cage helps a little bit, but that BBC is only as strong as the two motor mounts holding it in.... once sheetmetal and front framehorns start deforming..... everything is going to move backwards into the firewall in an awfully big hurry. My choice to use a collapsible steering column is kind of like using DOM vs. HREW tubing for a rollcage...... the stronger material could make the difference in a serious rollover, so there's no point (other than trying to save a few $$$) not to use the better materials...

-G
 
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