Wooohooo update!
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Shiny
Glad to see you getting back into it.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Those heads are sexay! Good to see you are still doing some stuff!
'Em are some nice shiny parts!
Well those are some significant bounty updates!
Be sure to clean your tools before assembly (yeah I know yours gotta be clean anyway, but scrub em good for engine assembly) and check your rocker arm rollers for proper alignment and being centered on the valve throughout the entire rotation.
Good luck and glad to hear your at bat again!
Be sure to clean your tools before assembly (yeah I know yours gotta be clean anyway, but scrub em good for engine assembly) and check your rocker arm rollers for proper alignment and being centered on the valve throughout the entire rotation.
Good luck and glad to hear your at bat again!
nvm
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Greg, I have a couple of questions about those heads. Most aftermarket heads have a raised exhaust port (do those) and if they do I would highly suggest you install them on the block and recheck your header fitment. Second, those exhaust ports don't look like the factory ports so are your header pipes going to fit correctly? Last but not least, are those square or large oval port heads?2016.03.07 - UPDATE! - HEY! IT'S NOT A BRONCO AFTER ALL...!!!!
So... it turns out that I've been building a Chevy Blazer, and NOT a Ford Bronco all this time.
Things make a lot more sense now, and the good news is that it's not the 50th Anniversary THIS year (1966)... I've actually still got a few more years left to get this build completed in time for the Blazer 50th (1969).....Whew! That was a close one.
It's been a tough recovery. My mind wants to get a lot of work done, but my body just couldn't do what I was asking it to do. Over the past few weeks I've at least been out in the garage cleaning and organizing parts, and even that was sometimes tough since I couldn't always lift the storage bins once they were packed and organized. I took things slowly (Don't need to tell my thead subscribers that do I?) but now I'm just about able to do "real" work in the garage again....
So with the LP heater blasting away, and the new overhead bulbs lighting the way I decided to finally open up the remaining boxes that I never got around to examining when they first arrived.
The Lunati custom-grind cam was in one of the boxes:
And those Brodix boxes that seemed SO heavy with a broken arm, actually didn't seem all that bad last night when I finally cut them open:
I'll probably still check everything myself, but this tag seems to indicate that .575" lift on my cam will be just fine with the valvetrain on these heads.
Cool stuff!
I also have a complete set of 4 aluminum wheel spacers (1.25") that will be used for the steel wheels & hubcaps project... unfortunately the centerbore is just a tad too small, so I'll have to get them machined larger before they will work correctly. "Custom is custom".... I recall someone used to always say that.
That's about it for now. Not much of a story to tell yet, but everyone around here like pictures more than words anyway so I'll start with this as I continue to get my wits about me and put together my build plan for the coming weeks / months.
-G
I thought I remembered you buying some new ARP head bolts? Make sure the heads don't require longer bolts as some aftermarket heads do require longer bolts. Also make sure you check for proper pushrod length as swapping heads can easily change the required length of pushrod as well as the installed height of the valves can cause different length pushrods to be needed.
Scotty,
The heads have a standard exhaust port location, so the headers will fit fine. I need to check the exact shape of the port vs. my head flanges to make sure nothing is blocking the exhaust port. If necessary I can swap out the flanges for a style that matches better.
The intake side is an oval port not rectangular. That's why I had to buy a new intake manifold.... My old one was rectangular.
Brodix provides a complete list of matching part numbers for things like ARP head studs, spark plugs, etc. so that there is no confusion about what to use to get them installed properly.
-G
The cam was based off the Lunati #60211... but with modified LSA and ICL values to give it a smoother idle.
I am one of the few people on the CK5 who doesn't want a choppy idle and loud exhaust.
-G
LAST NIGHT..... 2016.03.07
I've got a few pending CNC projects that I need to knock out before too much longer, and since my friend has time next week to help me out I decided to spend some time figuring out the details of what I need so we can be as efficient with our time as possible.
I picked up a couple sets of 1.25" aluminum wheels spacers for a good price, but as luck would have it the center bore is just a touch too small to fit over the portal hubs...
The original eXaXt 8-Lug conversion used a 1" thick spacer (which I subsequently machined down to 3/8" thick for the Hummer2 wheel fitment) and those look like this:
It's a 8.5" wide spacer with a 5.125" center bore... by contrast, the new spacers are 8" wide, with a 4.625" centerbore.
It's that kind of fit where it "feels" like it's going to fit, but then it just rocks and slips at an angle every time you try to seat-it to the hub. No matter how well you square-it-up and try again...it's just not going to fit.
For a machinist, pulling 0.155" off the ID is child's play... so hopefully it will be a simple, trouble-free process. The only other thing that I concerned me was that the diameter of the new spacers was 1/2" smaller and I wondered if it that was going to compromise the contact area between the adapter and the steel wheel mounting surface itself. Here's how it looked on a test-fit:
At first glance, it looks like the spacer should be wider to give more solid contact. But then I took a large flat file and started cleaning the mounting surface of the wheel center to see where the high-spots (contact areas) actually were...
As it turns out, the stamping has a pronounced radius that comes off the mounting surfaces, and the true, flat contact areas are actually 8.00" across!
This just happens to be the exact dimensions of the new spacers which makes for one less problem to solve later on!
Anyway...it's not a huge update, but I'm getting back into the routine of working a little bit each night so in the coming days / weeks these posts should get more and more interesting.
-G
I've got a few pending CNC projects that I need to knock out before too much longer, and since my friend has time next week to help me out I decided to spend some time figuring out the details of what I need so we can be as efficient with our time as possible.
I picked up a couple sets of 1.25" aluminum wheels spacers for a good price, but as luck would have it the center bore is just a touch too small to fit over the portal hubs...
The original eXaXt 8-Lug conversion used a 1" thick spacer (which I subsequently machined down to 3/8" thick for the Hummer2 wheel fitment) and those look like this:
It's a 8.5" wide spacer with a 5.125" center bore... by contrast, the new spacers are 8" wide, with a 4.625" centerbore.
It's that kind of fit where it "feels" like it's going to fit, but then it just rocks and slips at an angle every time you try to seat-it to the hub. No matter how well you square-it-up and try again...it's just not going to fit.
For a machinist, pulling 0.155" off the ID is child's play... so hopefully it will be a simple, trouble-free process. The only other thing that I concerned me was that the diameter of the new spacers was 1/2" smaller and I wondered if it that was going to compromise the contact area between the adapter and the steel wheel mounting surface itself. Here's how it looked on a test-fit:
At first glance, it looks like the spacer should be wider to give more solid contact. But then I took a large flat file and started cleaning the mounting surface of the wheel center to see where the high-spots (contact areas) actually were...
As it turns out, the stamping has a pronounced radius that comes off the mounting surfaces, and the true, flat contact areas are actually 8.00" across!
This just happens to be the exact dimensions of the new spacers which makes for one less problem to solve later on!Anyway...it's not a huge update, but I'm getting back into the routine of working a little bit each night so in the coming days / weeks these posts should get more and more interesting.
-G
I'm really interested to see you get the rims finished up and mounted. You've put a helluva lot of work into being able to put hubcaps on this thing and I'm itching for the payoff!
I am one of the few people on the CK5 who doesn't want a choppy idle and loud exhaust.
There's at least two of us. Thank you.
-- A
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Yep. I'm over that also
Zim,
The adapters themselves are just a straight through-hole at this point.
Once we cut the extra 0.155" and enlarge the centerbore, they will become hubcentric to the portal (just like the eXaXt adapters were originally)... but they still rely on the wheel studs to center the wheel itself.
Down the road, when I'm working on the CTIS parts I will need to machine a new part to go under that massive 55mm bolt head and act as a large washer that holds that splined area tight to the spindle. The factory UniMog part is just a flat 1/4" steel washer with 4 roll pins to keep it from spinning.... but I was planning to machine something that would be more like a "pocket" instead (washer on the bottom, but with a cylindrical thick-walled perimeter) That would allow me to come up out of that bolt area and provide a nice hub center for the steel wheel (approx. 4.625" diameter). That way the stresses wouldn't be carried exclusively by the wheel studs. The machined center hub would carry much of that load as well.
It will also make it a LOT easier to install wheels/tires....since I can rest them on the hub center while I try to line up the wheel studs!!!
-G
Yay. One of the Gregs is back.
But no really. I've missed this so much.
But no really. I've missed this so much.
About time slacker! 
Heard something about a ford??
But seriously, good stuff.. Except the choppy cam and loud exhaust part..
But seriously, good stuff.. Except the choppy cam and loud exhaust part..
