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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build

This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Overview Gallery Discussion
Greg72 said:
Their "generic" cage plate was 3/4" longer in one dimension than I wanted, and had 3/8" through holes instead of 1/2"...

By the time I got my plates ordered (in the bulk quantity I needed) my "custom" design was only a few pennies more per part, and I got exactly what I wanted. :waytogo:


-G
Click to expand...
You're freaking spoiled...

That's really all I have to add at this point in time :D
 
2016.04.28 - UPDATE! - CONVOLUTED PROGRESS....!!!!

It's been a long time coming.

A very long time ago, I thought it would be a cool idea to design a cage plate that actually followed the profile of the bed floor so that there wouldn't be any gaps underneath... no way to trap water, crud, etc. And would provide a solid crush-proof connection from the upper cagework to the frame/rockslider structures below.

Last night, my machinist dropped off the "prototype" of my idea based on the best information that I could provide (dimensions, angles, depths, etc)

Here's how the clamshell looks:

IMG_9846.jpg




For a prototype, I was VERY pleased with how accurately it already fits! :saweet: It looks like we can pull a few thousandths off the high "peak" areas on the top and bottom plates and the parts will drop together perfectly and squeeze out all the remaining daylight that you see here:

IMG_9851.jpg



Here's the concept of how it will look in actual implementation:

IMG_9855.jpg




The convoluted section (which will be welded to the bedfloor) offers a nice 6" x 6" landing pad for the smaller cage plates (which are welded to the cage itself)... given the variability of where the cage lands on the floor, it's good to have a pad with a good amount of "margin" around it just in case the cage is offset slightly left or right of where the convoluted plate is affixed to the floor.

Anyway..... thought you might like this. It was great finally seeing this idea rendered in actual steel. If my luck holds, I should have "final" parts tonight or tomorrow for a second test-fitting.... and then the parts go into production so that I can get 12 more pairs. :waytogo:


-G
 
Looks like you're pretty close in fit, but almost looks like you may end up 'restamping' the floor as if it were a die. May cause wrinkles around the plate.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Looks like you're pretty close in fit, but almost looks like you may end up 'restamping' the floor as if it were a die. May cause wrinkles around the plate.
Click to expand...

blazinzuk said:
Also kind of looks if there were bolts through it would have closed up ALOT
Click to expand...


Yeah.... the dimensions that I provided were based on my best measurements from the "new" reproduction bedfloor. Machinists are funny people..... when I gave the dimensions and tolerances he looked at me like I was spec'ing stuff +/- ONE MILE!!!! :haha:

For last night's test-fit, I cut out a 6" x 6" coupon of the "original" OEM floor to use in those sandwich tests. It may not be precisely the same as the reproduction floor....and I suspect it isn't. So I don't want to get too obsessed with making the plates fit that coupon, what's more important is the fit on my new repro bedfloor. I saw the same "daylight" on when I put the plates on the bedfloor, so I know I'm headed in the right direction. I figure we'll mill off 30 to 60 thousandths to get everything laying in there nice and tight....

It may take a few attempts, but once it's dialed-in it will be easy to replicate many more times over. :waytogo:


-G
 
You just gonna paint the bed, or will it be bedlined or carpeted or something? Maybe bedliner or rubber coat the "inside" of the convolutions?

-- A
 
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dremu said:
You just gonna paint the bed, or will it bedlined or carpeted or something? Maybe bedliner or rubber coat the "inside" of the convolutions?

-- A
Click to expand...


I'm thinking some kind of Line-X or RhinoLiner on both the top and bottom side of the tub. There is a process that uses polyurea with a heat curing that I'd like to find out more about. It sounds a lot like Line-X, but my understanding is that those spray-in coatings are all chemically cured like a 2-part catalyzed paint. Basically, you spray it on and within a few minutes it's already dry to the touch.

Need to look into it more.


-G
 
We have the insides of the tubs on a lot of our deli display cases polyurea coated to prevent leaks.

It is some really tough stuff.
 
Deuling said:
We have the insides of the tubs on a lot of our deli display cases polyurea coated to prevent leaks.

It is some really tough stuff.
Click to expand...


Is it heat cured afterwards like powdercoated parts? I'm hoping there's an option to have a ceramic ingredient added to resist heat transfer. That would be a great extra layer of protection on top of the ceramic coating that I plan to put on my headers / exhaust.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
Is it heat cured afterwards like powdercoated parts? I'm hoping there's an option to have a ceramic ingredient added to resist heat transfer. That would be a great extra layer of protection on top of the ceramic coating that I plan to put on my headers / exhaust.


-G
Click to expand...

Im not sure. Ill find out.
 
I like the plates. I didn't realize they were landing zones for the other plates.

I still think they can be easily made by installing filler strips and welding them to the main plate, but that would be way less kewl.

As for the spray, you may want to consider LizardSkin. It's heat and noise resistant.

http://m.lizardskin.com/
 
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Greg72 said:
Is it heat cured afterwards like powdercoated parts? I'm hoping there's an option to have a ceramic ingredient added to resist heat transfer. That would be a great extra layer of protection on top of the ceramic coating that I plan to put on my headers / exhaust.


-G
Click to expand...

Line-x/bedliner is a two part poly. The machine that sprays them has heated lines, it mixes at the tip and the product cures within minutes. It's the same machines they use to apply spray foam. I use to be the general manager of a fab shop that we specialized in plural component spray equipment. I Personally have never heard of a system that is heat cured after the fact.

I used a DIY product called liner exteme on my bronco build, it sprayed really easy, seems to be very comparable to line-x, it was a two part system as well, just had to be premixed and didn't need to be heated. I would imagine the line-x bites harder. But this stuff is very hard, and is quite coarse.

Disregard that disgusting steering wheel, previous owner had fantastic taste.......

image ru
 
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