Isn't this the MAW build??
You haven't shortcut any process of this build, even when it meant redoing brackets upon brackets or redoing the rollcage don't start now. Doing a complex fuel tank should be cake.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Isn't this the MAW build??
You haven't shortcut any process of this build, even when it meant redoing brackets upon brackets or redoing the rollcage don't start now. Doing a complex fuel tank should be cake.
I think at this point I'm going to spend some time figuring out where the hidden hitch needs to go.... And how low the bumper will actually sit.....
It is very possible that I can get 30+ gallons with a single center-mounted tank if I start pushing dimensions over/up/out my an inch or two, and put some kind of reasonable taper on the bottom that won't hang (visually)!below the bedside.
Sneak the exhaust under the framerail closer to where the mufflers are to avoid cooking the fuel, and call it a day.... See? this truck is just about finished!
-G
The real question though, is the complicated tank the way to go?
This is another one of those times when I wish i was there. It's hard for me at least to see exactly what is there so my advice is always with a grain of salt
This is another one of those times when I wish i was there. It's hard for me at least to see exactly what is there so my advice is always with a grain of salt
I'll get you a better pic this weekend and some measurements if needed to see how low she sits. But this is a high as it will go, with about an 1/8" clearance for the tailgate to still open.
Thanks Mike!
I think I can probably find a good "index hole" on my frame from when it was stock that we can both use to pull measurements from. That would help a lot....
BTW -> pretty sure the bumper "curls under" a bit more than you've got it set up in those pics. I'll see if I can find a pic of that too...
-G
I think I can probably find a good "index hole" on my frame from when it was stock that we can both use to pull measurements from. That would help a lot....
BTW -> pretty sure the bumper "curls under" a bit more than you've got it set up in those pics. I'll see if I can find a pic of that too...
-G
Maybe it's time that I learn how to do the new Facebook "Live Streaming"???
Then a bunch of you guys can all watch and post insults in the comments section as I walk around the truck.
-G
Yeah, I'm pretty sure I set mine up to curl just a bit. It was just hanging on the tube bumper stuff then and not bolted tight. IIRC I think SBD got me the pic...or that might have been the front that he got me a photo to build off of?? I'll look around for them.
think of all the volume inside the roll cage tubes...must be at least 10-12 gallons. Use the ashtray as the fill point, aaaannndddd GO! 
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Definitely make sure the tailgate closes when you fit the bumper on like Mike says. I had to add a 1/4" body mount shim on mine to get more clearance when I mounted my bumper.
Only if there are buckets under your axles
I think if you can make it one ractangular tank large enough for your needs you will be much better off. To be honest this 3 tank design seems a little too complicated for the gain you get with all the bottom transfer hoses and vent hoses, impact concerns, etc. I say make the tank inside the frame rails as large as you can without a clearance issue (even if you have to angle the back and notch for the pumpkin), and call it large enough. I hate to put the MDF in the tuition pile, but it might be the best solution?
If I can do it all in a single tank, then I can go back to my original plan of putting the batteries in those rear bedside corners!
-G
I don't know how your going to rectify the tin can bumpers anymore. Either your old honeycomb idea or hidden tube, but you may have some tubes crossing that outer section heading back to the frame... especially if your going with a swing out tire carrier. Just another thing to think about while you're back there.
Last edited:
I definitely like the idea of a "sacrificial" chrome bumper over a burly structure underneath. When the bumper gets too beat up and ugly, just buy a new one and slap it on....
Originally I was going to rework a stock bumper with all sorts of reinforcements then have it replated... But even that would eventually get scrapes and gouges, so it would cost a fortune to keep sending it off for new repairs / chrome
-G
Yeah I always thought that would be a cool idea to do a strong structure under a factory bumper also, kinda like a "sleeper" bumper I guess.
Chit......Mine will look like they belong on a Yugo by the time Mr. Magoo finishes his.
KISS - Keep It Simple Sir!
You may need to work backwards in order to go forwards with your gas tank idea. First, I would figure out where the rear bumper will be located. Then calculate where you can place the furthest rear crossmember with hidden hitch. Then calculate a reasonable amount of annular space for flex/movement/what-ifs. This can be the rearmost wall of your gas tank. AND, without modifying the crossmember already in place (that helps to transfer the load of the C pillars to the frame), you will end up with an L-shaped tank. Like you've been mentioning, you can also taper this to your liking. In all, I'd keep the gas tank as one gas tank and make it a smidge deeper; a skidplate will be your friend (3/4" UHMW!) Hopefully the MS paint pic helps explain my ramblings!
[/URL][/IMG]
You may need to work backwards in order to go forwards with your gas tank idea. First, I would figure out where the rear bumper will be located. Then calculate where you can place the furthest rear crossmember with hidden hitch. Then calculate a reasonable amount of annular space for flex/movement/what-ifs. This can be the rearmost wall of your gas tank. AND, without modifying the crossmember already in place (that helps to transfer the load of the C pillars to the frame), you will end up with an L-shaped tank. Like you've been mentioning, you can also taper this to your liking. In all, I'd keep the gas tank as one gas tank and make it a smidge deeper; a skidplate will be your friend (3/4" UHMW!) Hopefully the MS paint pic helps explain my ramblings!
Sorry for the 3rd post on the same subject, but the editing on this forum leaves a lot to be desired. Anywho...
Red lines represent rear crossmember (I know it won't be that far back on the framerails, but it give you a reference point).
Blue line represent bottom of frame rail.
Green is fuel tank. I mocked over the MDF I could see. The tank would go under the existing crossmember (I painted over the top to show continuity of lines). I also only showed top and side profiles so the pic doesn't get any more muddled.
Also, a benefit to placing a downward taper of the tank as it approaches the axle, is that fuel is always moving towards the pickup, at least until you point the nose towards the sky. That is where the baffles prove useful. You could locate the fuel pump and pickup as far forward as possible (assuming tapered tank), and centered laterally. Two baffles can run longitudinally along either side of the pickup to control fuel slosh side to side, and one baffle can run laterally to control fuel slosh front to back (possibly an extension of the vertical face where the tank makes the L shape to avoid the existing crossmember).
Red lines represent rear crossmember (I know it won't be that far back on the framerails, but it give you a reference point).
Blue line represent bottom of frame rail.
Green is fuel tank. I mocked over the MDF I could see. The tank would go under the existing crossmember (I painted over the top to show continuity of lines). I also only showed top and side profiles so the pic doesn't get any more muddled.
Also, a benefit to placing a downward taper of the tank as it approaches the axle, is that fuel is always moving towards the pickup, at least until you point the nose towards the sky. That is where the baffles prove useful. You could locate the fuel pump and pickup as far forward as possible (assuming tapered tank), and centered laterally. Two baffles can run longitudinally along either side of the pickup to control fuel slosh side to side, and one baffle can run laterally to control fuel slosh front to back (possibly an extension of the vertical face where the tank makes the L shape to avoid the existing crossmember).
