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No way you are supposed to screw them in. They look just like wheel studs to me. ARP will certainly have the information on what size hole they are designed to fit in. With you trying to put them into holes that are already threaded though, you may have an issue. You might need to get studs with a larger diameter knurl so that you can drill the holes out to the correct size and remove all of the existing threads.
 
No way you are supposed to screw them in. They look just like wheel studs to me. ARP will certainly have the information on what size hole they are designed to fit in. With you trying to put them into holes that are already threaded though, you may have an issue. You might need to get studs with a larger diameter knurl so that you can drill the holes out to the correct size and remove all of the existing threads.

Ash,

You may have missed my previous Ninja edit..... :)

ARP wants a 0.394" through-hole for the studs. I can run a 25/64" drill bit (0.390") through them which will remove all previous traces of the threaded holes.

It's still going to be a bit nerve-wracking, so I might do a piece of scrap metal first as a sanity check.


-G
 
Yup, missed it.
I did basically the same thing when I switched to 1/2" studs on my D44. Just chased the holes with the correct size bit and fit like a glove. :D
 
I didn't know the housing was threaded. I would suggest only using 2 of those studs then use ARP 12 point bolts for the rest. Once you've had the oppurtunity or need to remove a 9" third member you'll know why I say that. Also you want a .005" press fit on a knurled stud.

Scotty,

Even with the existing holes being tapped to 3/8-25 (UNF) thread instead of a standard 3/8 through-hole? I'd have to literally screw the studs in from the back side... they are the exact same size/threads as the housing.

I was looking up some specs and the current threaded holes in the housing have a major diameter of 0.3750" and a minor diameter of 0.3228"
My concern is trying to pull that knurled area into the existing holes. At the root of those threads... the difference between the knurled part of the stud is only 0.073"... but at the peaks it's 0.021"

I just don't know how much metal I can expect to "smoosh" out of the way of the studs when I'm drawing them in. The last thing I want is to snap off a stud in the housing. :yikes:



At the very least, I need to figure out how I'm supposed to get the studs in from the backside if I'm not supposed to screw them into the existing threads.... :dunno:



EDIT:

I decided to stop being so stubborn (and lazy) and just called ARP Tech Support. :)

The correct hole interference on the stud should be around .003" - .004"
They recommended around a .394" hole.
The suggestion was to drill the existing threaded holes with a 25/64" bit (0.390") and ream from there if needed to get it perfect.








-G
 
2017.05.18 - UPDATE!! - !! HARSH REALITY !!

Had a bit of a gut-check moment yesterday. :yikes:

I've been keeping most of this build project in my head, and tracking items that needed attention in a mostly organized way.... there was SO much to do, that it really didn't matter all that much the exact sequence of events as long as forward progress was being made.

The tracking of the remaining days to Moab 2018 has been clearly visible in my avatar for more than a year now, and today marks 470 days to complete the project before the event. What that DOESN'T track very well is the amount of actual garage time that I've got to work with between now and then.... and yesterday was the day when MS Excel pulled that into sharp focus for me.

BHL.jpg



That's right.... basically 1000 hours left if I continue on my current strategy of working 3 evenings per week, plus 1 full weekend day. It's roughly 15 hours each week, limited by my desire for family time and occasional sleep. :)

The next logical step was to break up those hours and compare them to the amount of work still remaining. The analysis is still ongoing and the spreadsheet is already over 150 lines long... but here's just a flavor of the first 50 lines or so....(Many of the subprojects do NOT have any hours estimated yet):

PL.jpg



It sure seems like the work hours required will far outpace the work hours remaining.... I don't have a great trackrecord of estimating completion times for projects, so this whole sheet could be off by MANY multiples of those hours. Clearly, not EVERY project is equally important.... and I can try to claw-back some time in areas that are not 100% essential (stereo, interior, etc) and simply deal with completing those after the big event. I'm just not sure if there will be enough time savings even once that "lifeboat exercise" is completed. :dunno:

So.... things were a bit somber in the shop last night and while I mulled it over, I just did boring stuff and let my mind wander a bit.... scraping undercoating off the wheeltubs seemed like the perfect assignment for myself.

This is the way they both looked at the beginning....

IMG_6816.jpg



After a couple of hours, I managed to get one of them cleaned up and looking pretty darn good!:

IMG_6813.jpg



The one redeeming part of my Excel spreadsheet work, is that it really sharpened my focus on the specific ORDER of events that need to happen in the near term to complete the most important sub-projects. To finish out the frame and running gear (which needs to be done before I can reattach the body and rollcage) I need to find room for a 2 Gallon airtank for both the CTIS system and the ARB lockers. There isn't much room left anywhere so I rolled up some oakboard to the correct dimensions and did test fittings for both a single 2.5 Gallon, and tried the option of two small 1 Gallon tanks.

IMG_6809e.jpg



Ultimately, I still need to fit two full-size batteries somewhere under there....and I'd really like to hide the two air compressors underneath as well since I'm sure they are noisy and I don't want them in the rear bedsides unless I have no other choice.


I'm not giving up hope (yet).... I will work the numbers a lot more, and perhaps sharpening my focus to REALLY stay on task with this list will help me stay efficient and might ultimately keep me on a better completion schedule. :waytogo:


-G
 
A COUPLE OF LINGERING QUESTIONS:


For anyone who knows and feels like answering....

  • Is it possible to do metal shrinking with a MAP torch? I don't know much about MAP torches, but I can but them at the local HomeDepot and get the refills easily as well. If they run hotter than standard propane torches, maybe they'd be able to get the metal cherry red and allow me to quench/shrink a few stretched out metal areas on my wheeltubs or body panels.

  • I won't be doing my own final paint on this truck, but I would like to be able to use catalyzed primers (epoxy) and maybe some other types of spray-on products for the base layers. Surface finish won't be as critical as a top coat, since I'd probably be doing a lot of sanding afterwards and could deal with runs or orangepeel. Is there a good "bread and butter" HVLP (or other) spray gun for this kind of work? I don't need to spend $500+ on a top of the line sprayer... just want something that is good quality (metal parts vs. plastic) that is cleanable and serviceable.

@bp71k5
@tRustyK5
@ryoken
@ClassicStyle

Thanks!

-G
 
I'm glad to see you put some time into working up a to-do list and attempt at an actual schedule. I'd hate to see you miss your goal of BB18, but I have to admit I've been having my doubts.

Maybe once you have a realistic list of jobs to be completed, you can order them in such a way that only things that MUST be done for drivability, and things that cannot be easily done once everything is together take priority. If that list is sufficiently realistic, hopefully you can still make it.
 
I know I've gotten steel cherry red w/ one... But it took a bit, so you may end up heat soaking the panel.
 
Were those hours needed, given the 2.5x fudge factor...?

That's what's got me nervous.... those are my "best guess" hours, and I know that I rarely hit my estimates on custom stuff. My Punchlist hours could be 2.5X larger than whatever I calculate. :yikes:


Seriously though, don't cut corners for the sake of making the date. Trucks too nice for that.

I agree... I won't cut corners on anything that I'd have to go back and re-do later. The most I'm willing to do is just skip a step completely (like the interior work) knowing that I can still do it exactly how I want later on and I didn't compromise anything just to hit the target date. I really don't want to miss the event, so I'm going to buckle-down and really try to sharpen my focus and look for ways to avoid distractions (SQUIRREL!!!)


-G
 
Is it possible to do metal shrinking with a MAP torch? I don't know much about MAP torches, but I can but them at the local HomeDepot and get the refills easily as well. If they run hotter than standard propane torches, maybe they'd be able to get the metal cherry red and allow me to quench/shrink a few stretched out metal areas on my wheeltubs or body panels.
I've always been taught that heat is the enemy, and have preferred shrinking and stretching using the appropriate hammer and dolley techniques.

What I use:
Martin BFB The Key to Metal Bumping Manual Instruction Book, 126 Pages https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GUZP4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_opBhzbVRPZ5F3

Martin 647K 7 Piece Body and Fender Repair Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014DEVUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YoBhzbRWSGDX2

If you're looking to build wheel arches, shrinker-stretcher dies would be very handy.

David
 
I've always been taught that heat is the enemy, and have preferred shrinking and stretching using the appropriate hammer and dolley techniques.

What I use:
Martin BFB The Key to Metal Bumping Manual Instruction Book, 126 Pages https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GUZP4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_opBhzbVRPZ5F3

Martin 647K 7 Piece Body and Fender Repair Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014DEVUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YoBhzbRWSGDX2

If you're looking to build wheel arches, shrinker-stretcher dies would be very handy.

David


Interesting.

I'd always heard experts say that once metal is stretched the only way to get it back is to get the molecules to line up more efficiently again.... those large burnishing disc attachments (SunChaser) and/or rosebud torch techniques seem pretty effective at getting the metal HOT so that it can cool and shrink back into a smaller space. :dunno:


EDIT: Bought that book....I've been meaning to for a while now anyway... But I already own that EXACT set of Martin hammers/dollies so I guess there is no excuse. :haha:


-G
 
Better add in some vacation days to get some extra work hrs on this project.
I've got a set of DeVilbiss guns that work good but I'm no pro at paint and body work. I used to repair fiberglass hoods on semis and usually just repainted the fenders when they would hit deer/cows.
 
Better add in some vacation days to get some extra work hrs on this project.
I've got a set of DeVilbiss guns that work good but I'm no pro at paint and body work. I used to repair fiberglass hoods on semis and usually just repainted the fenders when they would hit deer/cows.

Yeah...yeah.... I know.

There is always the chance to steal extra hours by working later into the evenings, and I could add 40 hours by burning PTO at work.

But it cuts both ways, and the work itself can mushroom and eat up all of those cleverly added "extra" manhours.....

I really need to manage both sides of the equation carefully from now on. :deal:


-G
 
I am starting to feel the harsh reality as well. I have only 60ish days to finish mine. I have started a list to get only the things necessary to make it safe for me to run, not going to think about time, just give it my best shot and roll with it.
 
Interesting.

I'd always heard experts say that once metal is stretched the only way to get it back is to get the molecules to line up more efficiently again.... those large burnishing disc attachments (SunChaser) and/or rosebud torch techniques seem pretty effective at getting the metal HOT so that it can cool and shrink back into a smaller space.

EDIT: Bought that book....I've been meaning to for a while now anyway... But I already own that EXACT set of Martin hammers/dollies so I guess there is no excuse.
I'm sure a select and targeted amount of heat could speed along what would otherwise be a lengthier cold working process. I'm just chicken.

That book is a good airplane read, and I'll have to refresh before I get into more sheetmetal on my projects.

David
 
Here's my 2cents, ditch the timelines, compressing the possible time frame slotted for these projects imposes unnecessary stress which will lead to compromises and likely large ones in your project. You have not at this point had many, trust me it takes away from your family in a big way, and it's not worth it in the long run because you killed the time anyway and might have screwed up a good thing in the process costing you more than 2x the projection.
Keep at your pace and get as far as you can by prioritizing your lists but if you don't make it because of one delay or another so be it..
Btw triple all the items on your list and you'll be closer... then check me on this when you complete..
 
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