Because it looks awesome, won't ever corrode and it's the hardest to work with...
-G
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Because it looks awesome, won't ever corrode and it's the hardest to work with...
-G
I think you are on the right track with the arduno type sensors. For what you want to do a standard automotive type TPMS sensor won't work the way you need it too. The auto sensors are located inside the tire as part of the valve stem. It's actually monitoring pressure from inside the tire.
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You definitely can double flare stainless lines. The key is clean cuts, nice chamfer, liberal use of oil at flare.
My question wasn't whether you can double-flare stainless (you can).... my question was whether it required a 37* flare vs. a 45* flare.
I've seen a few comments online that indicated that 45* flares would split the seam.
-G
Most of the little microcontrollers, and specifically the Arduinos, have an onboard voltage regulator. However, said might max out at 12V, so the the 13+V from your alternator would fry it, or at least make it awful toasty. I'd plan on running the electronics from a USB dongle because, as Brian or somebody pointed out, that's cheap and simple. (You can build a heatsinked 7805, but for the cost and hassle you could just use a USB port
)I'd think you can get an amp or more out of one of those USB things easy, should be able to run anything you want. The board itself only draws a few tens of mA, and the board can pass that through to the sensors.
I find that unless I have a specific device which requires 3.3V, I still use the 5V Arduinos for everything. Unos are simple, cheap, ubiquitous. Not that your build is any of those things
-- A
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To clarify, yes you can do 45* doubles in SS. We do it all the time. Before you put them on that pretty truck, though, you would be wise to "pre-seat" the flared ends on a well lubed extra fitting in a vise. The stainless lines can be tough to seal initially.
Interesting.
I was looking at a tool that is specifically for lapping and smoothing the flared taper to make it perfect:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...Tnv5jbBZzxWRoCsjHw_wcB&ibanner=MobileSwitchNo
It seems like the 37* is going to be the more "common" flare since it works with all the AN-style fittings on the market. I'm not really sure how the 45* (SAE) compares or what it's specific benefit is..?
The best (and most expensive) flaring kits will do both 37* and 45* flares... but I'm just not sure if I should be using a combination of each, or just standardize my entire truck on the 37* ones?....
-G
superbuickguy
1/2 ton status
I bought the Eastwood vise-held flaring tool.... I absolutely love it. It flares everything well.
That one does look nice.
My only concerns with it are that it only goes up to 3/8" tube (no 1/2" dies), and the base kit only comes with 45* dies... the 37* flaring head is another $99 extra.
I was looking at the handheld hydro kits from Mastercool... for about the same price, they do all the way up to 1/2" tube and have both 37* and 45* dies included.
Both the Eastwood and the Mastercool kits both seem to have lots of great reviews.
-G
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I got the Master ool couple years ago. Yo won't beThat one does look nice.
My only concerns with it are that it only goes up to 3/8" tube (no 1/2" dies), and the base kit only comes with 45* dies... the 37* flaring head is another $99 extra.
I was looking at the handheld hydro kits from Mastercool... for about the same price, they do all the way up to 1/2" tube and have both 37* and 45* dies included.
Both the Eastwood and the Mastercool kits both seem to have lots of great reviews.
-G
I have the Master Cool. You won't be disappointed. It can put some serrations in 3/16 stainless brake line, but you just clean them up with file. It's a great toolThat one does look nice.
My only concerns with it are that it only goes up to 3/8" tube (no 1/2" dies), and the base kit only comes with 45* dies... the 37* flaring head is another $99 extra.
I was looking at the handheld hydro kits from Mastercool... for about the same price, they do all the way up to 1/2" tube and have both 37* and 45* dies included.
Both the Eastwood and the Mastercool kits both seem to have lots of great reviews.
-G
superbuickguy
1/2 ton status
Maybe next week I'll take a picture of my flaring-tools-that-fail drawer. Yes, it is expensive, but I swear I have more money in ones that utterly failed; not to mention the time lost with the poor sealing that later had to be completely replaced. When I did my FJ40, I had no leaks anywhere in the brake system - quality is expensive. It's even more expensive if you buy the cheap stuff first. I've heard good things about the Master cool as well - but no experience, so no opinion.That one does look nice.
My only concerns with it are that it only goes up to 3/8" tube (no 1/2" dies), and the base kit only comes with 45* dies... the 37* flaring head is another $99 extra.
I was looking at the handheld hydro kits from Mastercool... for about the same price, they do all the way up to 1/2" tube and have both 37* and 45* dies included.
Both the Eastwood and the Mastercool kits both seem to have lots of great reviews.
-G
I have done a few cars with the cheap ones. They worked just fine.
Of course I have done a few cars with cheap flaring tools and I hate those tools.
I have used the mastercool one. I like it..............alot.
Flares are pretty easy to visually inspect and say yes or no. But like was stated above I started doing the seating thing on every flare. I just sprayed wd40 on it to lube it
Of course I have done a few cars with cheap flaring tools and I hate those tools.
I have used the mastercool one. I like it..............alot.
Flares are pretty easy to visually inspect and say yes or no. But like was stated above I started doing the seating thing on every flare. I just sprayed wd40 on it to lube it
I've had the mastercool for a long time. Its a good tool and works well. You won't be disappointed.
Good to hear!
I ordered the 37* version this morning... also ordered that lapping tool kit.
-G
I don't screw around with brake fluid. In fact I just redid the front of my truck and on the first trail the master cylinder lid spring retainer came out of the damn locating hole. Leaked brake fluid all down the drivers side of the truck. I didn't see it until I got home. 8 hours of disassembly and repainting later I'm back to square one.
Brake fluid has evil in its core!
Brake fluid has evil in its core!
2017.06.01 - !! UPDATE - !!! 37-DEGREES OF FLARE !!!
"I'd like to talk to you about your flare....." -Office Space
I don't know what it is about fittings and flares that has me so confused but I guess it's going to resolve itself one way or another in the coming days (and weeks)
Couldn't really wrap my head around WHY someone would prefer a 37* vs. a 45* flare. I think the 45* is more of a "factory" flare...so when trying to match up with existing plumbing, people will have to get flaring tools to replicate what the OEMs did. Most of the hotrodding community who are building from scratch seem to just go right to the 37* flare and it's an easy pairing with all the gorgeous (and expensive) AN-style fittings on the market.
In any case, I decided that since I'm starting from scratch anyway... it made more sense to go with the 37* kit. I went back-and-forth between the Eastwood vise-mounted manual flaring tool, and the MasterCool hand-held hydraulic version.... but since my vise is still bolted to an old wooden barstool in my garage (THIS IS 100% TRUE!) there's no way I'd be able to use a manual flaring tool. So MasterCool it is!!!
Mastercool (71480) Black 37 Degree Hydraulic Flaring Tool
I got the simpler version with 37* only.... though they sell "die kits" separately if I decided to do other stuff like 45* flares or bubble-flares, or whatever. Not sure why I would but it's nice to know that I have that option later on.
The other confusing thing is that it apparently does both 37* single and 37* DOUBLE-FLARE?? I know that 45* flares are always double-flare, but I'd always thought that 37* was a single-flare... and really never gets double-flared?
I've got no idea, but this tool I just bought apparently does both.
When it comes to tubing, I was focused on buying annealed 304 stainless in straight lengths (4 foot or 6 foot) so that I'd have laser-straight tubing to work with and it would look professional running along the inside of the frame. The problem is that it's not that easy to find... and the Earls stuff seems to be backordered for most of the month of June!! It's pretty expensive to buy in fixed straight lengths as well.
So finally I made peace with the idea of just buying annealed stainless in coils and buying a good quality tubing straightener. A lot of the straighteners all look like the same design, except for this one from Inline Tube:
What I like about it is that the rollers are mounted between two plates in a true double-shear configuration which should keep it really rigid... many of the other options have the pulleys mounted to a single thin plate (in single shear) and I've heard that they can deflect when trying to straighten larger diameter tubing which tends to be stiffer. Anyway... the prices are all about the same regardless of which style you chose (~$200) so I went with the Inline Tube version... and should have it here early next week.
-G
"I'd like to talk to you about your flare....." -Office Space
I don't know what it is about fittings and flares that has me so confused but I guess it's going to resolve itself one way or another in the coming days (and weeks)
Couldn't really wrap my head around WHY someone would prefer a 37* vs. a 45* flare. I think the 45* is more of a "factory" flare...so when trying to match up with existing plumbing, people will have to get flaring tools to replicate what the OEMs did. Most of the hotrodding community who are building from scratch seem to just go right to the 37* flare and it's an easy pairing with all the gorgeous (and expensive) AN-style fittings on the market.
In any case, I decided that since I'm starting from scratch anyway... it made more sense to go with the 37* kit. I went back-and-forth between the Eastwood vise-mounted manual flaring tool, and the MasterCool hand-held hydraulic version.... but since my vise is still bolted to an old wooden barstool in my garage (THIS IS 100% TRUE!) there's no way I'd be able to use a manual flaring tool. So MasterCool it is!!!
Mastercool (71480) Black 37 Degree Hydraulic Flaring Tool
I got the simpler version with 37* only.... though they sell "die kits" separately if I decided to do other stuff like 45* flares or bubble-flares, or whatever. Not sure why I would but it's nice to know that I have that option later on.
The other confusing thing is that it apparently does both 37* single and 37* DOUBLE-FLARE?? I know that 45* flares are always double-flare, but I'd always thought that 37* was a single-flare... and really never gets double-flared?
I've got no idea, but this tool I just bought apparently does both.
When it comes to tubing, I was focused on buying annealed 304 stainless in straight lengths (4 foot or 6 foot) so that I'd have laser-straight tubing to work with and it would look professional running along the inside of the frame. The problem is that it's not that easy to find... and the Earls stuff seems to be backordered for most of the month of June!! It's pretty expensive to buy in fixed straight lengths as well.
So finally I made peace with the idea of just buying annealed stainless in coils and buying a good quality tubing straightener. A lot of the straighteners all look like the same design, except for this one from Inline Tube:
What I like about it is that the rollers are mounted between two plates in a true double-shear configuration which should keep it really rigid... many of the other options have the pulleys mounted to a single thin plate (in single shear) and I've heard that they can deflect when trying to straighten larger diameter tubing which tends to be stiffer.
Anyway... the prices are all about the same regardless of which style you chose (~$200) so I went with the Inline Tube version... and should have it here early next week.-G
I can't believe nobody thought of that quote before when we were talking about flaring tools. lol"I'd like to talk to you about your flare....." -Office Space
Looks good man, I saw @bigblock72 use that tool on some factory lines for me and was super impressed with how simple it was to use and the flare quality. I think you'll be impressed when you use it.
My ace-in-the-hole is that I also bought that Kuhl Tools flare lapping tool.... so even after making a perfect flare, I can go in and polish the inside taper to a mirror finish and be 100% sure that it's leak-free from the very start.
Anyone know if there is any reason to specifically use (or avoid) Inline Tube vs. Classic Tube as my source for annealed stainless coiled tubing?
I'd heard that one of those sources MIGHT be selling tubing that is harder to flare properly.... it seems like properly annealed stainless should be easy to flare no matter what. Maybe one is seamless and the other isn't? Dunno....
-G
Greg, AN stands for Army Navy and the Army uses 37* on any kind of fitting and it just started to be used in the automotive industry as well. There are "AN" fittings that are 45* but they aren't TRUE AN fittings because of the flare angle. Think about this for a minute, should you have a failed fitting "in the field" you might not find a 37* AN fitting as easily as you will find a 45* fitting. For that reason I would have choose 45* fittings in this case.
