Hey man just cause my shops not done doesn't mean it's hypothetical.
It sure does offer some serious freedom though. My shop will be only a shop. It will have storage but for engines axles transmissions etc. No household goods at all
CK5
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'72 K5 - Greg's @MightAsWellK5 Build
- Thread starter Greg72
- Start date
This is the build description. I will improve this later. (GB)
Hey man just cause my shops not done doesn't mean it's hypothetical.
It sure does offer some serious freedom though. My shop will be only a shop. It will have storage but for engines axles transmissions etc. No household goods at all
Very true... doing it yourself is an entire different set of numbers. But even if you buy and hang it yourself, most guys don’t want to tape and texture an entire garage. That alone will be just about ~1.00 per square ft. That’s 32 bucks per sheet..... almost what a sheet of cabinet grade ply will cost you.
Here’s a change order from yesterday on a shop I’m building that is pretty much the same size as Greg’s. It’s unattached so all 1/2” with one wall balloon framed in 2x6 all 9’ lids. Unless you do the entire thing, hang, tape and texture, the price can go up pretty fast.
Here’s a change order from yesterday on a shop I’m building that is pretty much the same size as Greg’s. It’s unattached so all 1/2” with one wall balloon framed in 2x6 all 9’ lids. Unless you do the entire thing, hang, tape and texture, the price can go up pretty fast.
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Yah you know me I'm gonna be doing the whole freaking thing. Not looking forward to taping it. Buy oh well. I'm just taping it then maybe sanding it a touch. Certainly doesn't need to look great. It's a shop
At a buck a square it would be like 3 grand to do my shop. Yep pretty much the same price as nice 3/4" plywood
At a buck a square it would be like 3 grand to do my shop. Yep pretty much the same price as nice 3/4" plywood
Maybe I can find some nice wallpaper instead.... 
-G
-G
Maybe I can find some nice wallpaper instead....
-G
Those guys charge a lot, too.... lol
Maybe I can find some nice wallpaper instead....
-G
Hang rugs
Ladder duty?
Just nail 2x4s. You know like decking your walls
You hush your mouth....
Last time he started “Decking” we lost him for nine months..
Greg
Do some research on the actual sound deadening qualities of spray foam. Several years ago I had a job we needed to increase the STC rating of. I asked my insulation guy if he would spray the interior walls after we did one side of the drywall, he wouldn't because spray foam isn't as good at deadening sound as bat insulation.
I would say the open cell is going to be better at sound deadening than closed cell, however what worries do you need to have with Vapor transmittance down there? Closed cell is a vapor impermeable product (I really like spray foam FYI) so we use it in exterior walls now all the time. We're having to hit R-35+ in the walls up here now with all the new large window design styles so we spray 5"+ of closed cell all the time with R-60+ ceilings.
If you want max sound quality with good insulation you may need to look into bat insulation, then install a sleeper system at 90 degrees from the studs to hang the drywall on. Remember noise travels through direct contact, every time you reduce the contact area of a product, and introduce dead air space you reduce noise. Or if you want Max R-value and ok sound spray it with closed cell, then if you want to have some added quiet zones you could look at some specific type sound deadening blankets that you hang on walls or even create an enclosure with. We use those at work in a 3'X5' version all the time.
Do some research on the actual sound deadening qualities of spray foam. Several years ago I had a job we needed to increase the STC rating of. I asked my insulation guy if he would spray the interior walls after we did one side of the drywall, he wouldn't because spray foam isn't as good at deadening sound as bat insulation.
I would say the open cell is going to be better at sound deadening than closed cell, however what worries do you need to have with Vapor transmittance down there? Closed cell is a vapor impermeable product (I really like spray foam FYI) so we use it in exterior walls now all the time. We're having to hit R-35+ in the walls up here now with all the new large window design styles so we spray 5"+ of closed cell all the time with R-60+ ceilings.
If you want max sound quality with good insulation you may need to look into bat insulation, then install a sleeper system at 90 degrees from the studs to hang the drywall on. Remember noise travels through direct contact, every time you reduce the contact area of a product, and introduce dead air space you reduce noise. Or if you want Max R-value and ok sound spray it with closed cell, then if you want to have some added quiet zones you could look at some specific type sound deadening blankets that you hang on walls or even create an enclosure with. We use those at work in a 3'X5' version all the time.
After all the issues I had back east with moisture in my fiberglass bats, it was on my mind. The basic concept (as I understand it) is to have enough insulation that the dewpoint is never at the interior side of the foam. You have to spray thick enough to insure that the heat is blocked out completely otherwise the cool air from the garage will condense the moisture in that warm air and cause wet ceilings, etc. My old fiberglass was a black, moldy mess after a few years and I had to tear it all out and throw it away.
These sprayfoam guys were pretty adamant that a 5.5" thick open-cell foam (R21) would be more than adequate to prevent moisture issues. I don't know the exact correction factor, but they kept saying that an R21 spray foam application had an "effective" R-value of more like R38 fiberglass bat application due to being airtight.
The real surprise was when they told me about all the extra work I would have to do to deal with my attic mounted furnace and hot water tanks... both of which are LP gas fired. They rely on fresh attic air for the combustion process, so you can't just sprayfoam and seal up the entire attic. There won't be any oxygen for the units, so you have to build "fresh air" boxes around each one and then bring in fresh air ducting from the roof in addition to the exhaust vents that are already there. What a pain.
-G
I use to build spray foam rigs.
It’s very common out here in az, it is by far the best insulator available today. IMO
I have friends that did the whole inside of their house in .5lb wall foam and it’s not only always comfortable, but extremely quiet.
It’s very common out here in az, it is by far the best insulator available today. IMO
I have friends that did the whole inside of their house in .5lb wall foam and it’s not only always comfortable, but extremely quiet.
I'm definitely on the foam bandwagon, although as mentioned it is NOT a great soundproofing..Although I don't know if mine is closed cell or open, I did my working half of the new barn with it, and the air tight sealing it brings is one of the best parts of it..My contractor pretty much said its about double R value compared to bats I have approx.3-1/2" on the walls and 5" on the ceiling. It isn't cheap but payback should be less than 4 years compared to batts.
Why is there a big cost difference between open and closed cell foam?
Insulation aside 2 layers of sheetrock with green glue. Or 2 layers decoupled from each other are your best options.
I think genie clips is one product
Both decouple the 1st layer from the second. Sound is vibration, decoupling is key.
Or you could put a later of mass loaded vinyl on the walls and then decouple a layer of sheetrock.
Or acoustic sheetrock, which is expensive. Any of the above options will make your garage soundproof enough to prevent any neighbor complaints.
Course garage doors and windows sabotage the whole deal
I think genie clips is one product
Both decouple the 1st layer from the second. Sound is vibration, decoupling is key.
Or you could put a later of mass loaded vinyl on the walls and then decouple a layer of sheetrock.
Or acoustic sheetrock, which is expensive. Any of the above options will make your garage soundproof enough to prevent any neighbor complaints.
Course garage doors and windows sabotage the whole deal
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Another suggestion I have to combat noise is check the noise.
Turn on a shop vac. Start walking away find out how much distance it takes.
Trees and fences can make a huge difference in how much sound the neighbors hear.
Even with my garage doors open neither of my neighbors can hear me grinding away. I might have more distance but I'm in an uninsulated garage.
Turn on a shop vac. Start walking away find out how much distance it takes.
Trees and fences can make a huge difference in how much sound the neighbors hear.
Even with my garage doors open neither of my neighbors can hear me grinding away. I might have more distance but I'm in an uninsulated garage.
I think it’s as simple as material costs.
Open cell foam is more “air” and less product... closed cell foam is denser, with less air mixed in. So it takes more material to achieve the target thickness.
The closed cell formulations may also just cost more to produce.
-G
Formulations, the machines pump the same amount of product. Regardless if it’s roof foam or wall foam.
