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You should have said you were looking for some early hub caps. I think I have some.

Looking forward to when you restore them. Find the correct blue yet?

Martin
 
You should have said you were looking for some early hub caps. I think I have some.

Looking forward to when you restore them. Find the correct blue yet?

Martin

Martin, if you can help me find early 12” caps I can assure you that I will figure out the correct paint codes. :deal:

-G
 
I don’t have any blue bow ties. I no get excited able to find some though.

Is there anything wrong with the ones you got other than the ochre bow tie?

Martin
 
I don’t have any blue bow ties. I no get excited able to find some though.

Is there anything wrong with the ones you got other than the ochre bow tie?

Martin

A true early hubcap is convex in the bowtie area... many other Hershey kiss caps (yellow bow tie) have been repainted blue to disguise that they are 73+ style.... however the bowtie area is convex instead.

It’s “innie” vs. “outie” basically.... most people would never notice. But now that I know, I cannot unsee the difference and would like to find an “outie” set for myself

-G
 
A true early hubcap is convex in the bowtie area... many other Hershey kiss caps (yellow bow tie) have been repainted blue to disguise that they are 73+ style.... however the bowtie area is convex instead.

It’s “innie” vs. “outie” basically.... most people would never notice. But now that I know, I cannot unsee the difference and would like to find an “outie” set for myself

-G
I have one of the early ones with the blue bowtie.
Not sure where the other 3 went.
Yours if you want it
 
2020.06.24 - UPDATE! - DUMB IDEA.... THAT I'LL PROBABLY DO ANYWAY...


Been thinking about a fun / crazy / dumb idea for the last several weeks now, so I might as well share it with you all.

Every time that the Nitrogen Fill Kit gets hooked up to raise the ORI struts it is a reminder of three things:
1. How cool it is that the ride height can be selected by charging the upper chambers with nitrogen
2. How cool it is that the stiffness of each corner can be adjusted by charging the lower chambers of each strut
3. What a pain it is to hook up the dual-fill hoses to the appropriate pair of Schrader valves to make adjustments.

See where this might be headed, yet? :thinking:


Instead of attaching hoses at the top and bottom of each strut each time, what about permanently installing a high-quality braided hose PERMANENTLY to each of those fittings? Run those lengths of hose to a central distribution manifold with manual shutoffs for each (and maybe a pressure gauge?) so that a single nitrogen bottle connection could serve to make adjustments for ANY of the 8 chambers (2 per strut) and changing setups (either ride height or stiffness) could become incredibly easy from a single location? :dunno:

The main challenge seems to be getting the correct quality hoses and valves that are rated for tank pressures so that the system is 100% reliable and leak free. The stainless braided hoses used on the fill kit appear to be 3000psi rated, so the first step would be to source enough sections and custom lengths to consolidate all the hoses to a common place. The shutoffs would have to be rated for high-pressure as well and leak-free so there wouldn't be a constant fight to keep the charge pressures at the preferred settings.

It seems doable... and fun, and maybe not THAT complicated.

Still mulling it over... talk me out of it, or into it. :)



-G
 
2020.06.24 - UPDATE! - DUMB IDEA.... THAT I'LL PROBABLY DO ANYWAY...


Been thinking about a fun / crazy / dumb idea for the last several weeks now, so I might as well share it with you all.

Every time that the Nitrogen Fill Kit gets hooked up to raise the ORI struts it is a reminder of three things:
1. How cool it is that the ride height can be selected by charging the upper chambers with nitrogen
2. How cool it is that the stiffness of each corner can be adjusted by charging the lower chambers of each strut
3. What a pain it is to hook up the dual-fill hoses to the appropriate pair of Schrader valves to make adjustments.

See where this might be headed, yet? :thinking:


Instead of attaching hoses at the top and bottom of each strut each time, what about permanently installing a high-quality braided hose PERMANENTLY to each of those fittings? Run those lengths of hose to a central distribution manifold with manual shutoffs for each (and maybe a pressure gauge?) so that a single nitrogen bottle connection could serve to make adjustments for ANY of the 8 chambers (2 per strut) and changing setups (either ride height or stiffness) could become incredibly easy from a single location? :dunno:

The main challenge seems to be getting the correct quality hoses and valves that are rated for tank pressures so that the system is 100% reliable and leak free. The stainless braided hoses used on the fill kit appear to be 3000psi rated, so the first step would be to source enough sections and custom lengths to consolidate all the hoses to a common place. The shutoffs would have to be rated for high-pressure as well and leak-free so there wouldn't be a constant fight to keep the charge pressures at the preferred settings.

It seems doable... and fun, and maybe not THAT complicated.

Still mulling it over... talk me out of it, or into it. :)



-G
DO IT!!!
 
Well if you put the hoses after the regulator it will be much safer and you won't need 3000 psi stuff for everything, just the hose to the regulator, after that, 500 psi capacity should be sufficient. I don't think you want potentially 3000 psi to your shocks anyway, not very safe.

Then you can mount gauges in place of the ash try and some solenoid valves by the distribution manifold and a few momentary buttons. Then you just hold the buttons down to open the solenoids and raise or lower the pressures at the touch of a button.

Just make sure to carry caps or plugs in case you blow a hose or spring a leak, then you can disconnect and cap off the strut so it doesn't all leak out.

And close the bottle when not in use, if the bottle is not closed all the nitrogen can leak out in one night, trust me. I am just guessing, but half the bottle will last for years, and the other half one night....:whistle:

If you get real serious you could use a lower rider controller and have automatic control of the ride height, oooooohhhhh
 
Don't remove your shrader valves, if your system gets hit or develops a leak you can just pop one of the hoses off and it's good to keep driving down the trail.
 
With as often as your actually going to need to do it, is it worth all the hassle?
Or the potential for a leak when the bottle is supposed to be closed but you didn't.... Then get in your truck and inhale a big ole lung full. Which can end bad.

I'd skip this particular thought line myself.
 
Air is ~80% nitrogen anyway so it's not dangerous really(unless you somehow deplete all of the oxygen, which is unlikely). Whats much more likely to happen is you forget to close something or spring a slow leak and come back out and its sitting on the bump stops.
 
Seems like it could be fun and in the grand scheme wouldn’t be that hard to do. But i don’t see it being so big a project that you couldn’t do it after your more finalized versus using the time towards a bigger goal in the build now.
 
Well if you put the hoses after the regulator it will be much safer and you won't need 3000 psi stuff for everything, just the hose to the regulator, after that, 500 psi capacity should be sufficient. I don't think you want potentially 3000 psi to your shocks anyway, not very safe.

Then you can mount gauges in place of the ash try and some solenoid valves by the distribution manifold and a few momentary buttons. Then you just hold the buttons down to open the solenoids and raise or lower the pressures at the touch of a button.

Just make sure to carry caps or plugs in case you blow a hose or spring a leak, then you can disconnect and cap off the strut so it doesn't all leak out.

And close the bottle when not in use, if the bottle is not closed all the nitrogen can leak out in one night, trust me. I am just guessing, but half the bottle will last for years, and the other half one night....:whistle:

If you get real serious you could use a lower rider controller and have automatic control of the ride height, oooooohhhhh


Yeah, still need to work on the layout of the various parts for sure. The nitrogen bottle has a regulator on it already. Typically set it for no more than 400psi. Upper chambers can take up to around 350psi to lift the truck from the bumpstops initially but as they start to climb and fill up it settles to a bit less than 300psi. Lower chambers haven't been messed with much since that establishes ride quality (and the truck doesn't go anywhere yet) but IIRC it takes around 150psi in heavy truck applications.

So I can limit the overall pressure to no more than 400psi, but I'm going to want to add/bleed pressure from individual "pairs" of valves (upper rear chambers, upper front chambers, etc) so whatever I'm using to meter the nitrogen has to be able to handle decent pressures as well. Seems like a high quality ball-valve would work but I need to research more.

After that, you're right....the slope gets as slippery as I will allow..... Might As well add solenoids, and a controller.... then ride height sensors....then sensors for sidehills to increase pressure on the "low side" to basically create an active suspension with real-time adjustments all made by an Arduino. :haha: It won't go that far in reality, but I could foresee that adding or removing a couple inches of ride height on a trail run would be nice, as would softening or stiffening the struts (for initial tuning) or for a particular terrain (rocks vs. street use). Being able to make those changes conveniently (in 5 minutes or less) would be awesome.

Don't remove your shrader valves, if your system gets hit or develops a leak you can just pop one of the hoses off and it's good to keep driving down the trail.

ORI has a slick setup for the attachment to the Schrader. It's a T-handle pin in a banjo-style fitting that you screw IN to depress the valve core and allow nitrogen to flow in or out. When you completely unscrew that "T" the core seals back up like nothing is even connected. Using these connectors on the final solution would be great because you'd never need to even remove a hose in the event of a leak.... just back off the screw for the leaking hose and you can maintain pressure until a proper repair can be completed.


-G
 
Air is ~80% nitrogen anyway so it's not dangerous really(unless you somehow deplete all of the oxygen, which is unlikely). Whats much more likely to happen is you forget to close something or spring a slow leak and come back out and its sitting on the bump stops.


Especially in a full-convertible..... that would require a REALLY big tank. :)

-G
 
We use gas rated ball valves here at the plant. The low pressure ones I believe are 600 psi. They are just basically beefier higher quality stuff.
 
2020.06.24 - UPDATE! - DUMB IDEA.... THAT I'LL PROBABLY DO ANYWAY...


Been thinking about a fun / crazy / dumb idea for the last several weeks now, so I might as well share it with you all.

Every time that the Nitrogen Fill Kit gets hooked up to raise the ORI struts it is a reminder of three things:
1. How cool it is that the ride height can be selected by charging the upper chambers with nitrogen
2. How cool it is that the stiffness of each corner can be adjusted by charging the lower chambers of each strut
3. What a pain it is to hook up the dual-fill hoses to the appropriate pair of Schrader valves to make adjustments.

See where this might be headed, yet? :thinking:


Instead of attaching hoses at the top and bottom of each strut each time, what about permanently installing a high-quality braided hose PERMANENTLY to each of those fittings? Run those lengths of hose to a central distribution manifold with manual shutoffs for each (and maybe a pressure gauge?) so that a single nitrogen bottle connection could serve to make adjustments for ANY of the 8 chambers (2 per strut) and changing setups (either ride height or stiffness) could become incredibly easy from a single location? :dunno:

The main challenge seems to be getting the correct quality hoses and valves that are rated for tank pressures so that the system is 100% reliable and leak free. The stainless braided hoses used on the fill kit appear to be 3000psi rated, so the first step would be to source enough sections and custom lengths to consolidate all the hoses to a common place. The shutoffs would have to be rated for high-pressure as well and leak-free so there wouldn't be a constant fight to keep the charge pressures at the preferred settings.

It seems doable... and fun, and maybe not THAT complicated.

Still mulling it over... talk me out of it, or into it. :)



-G
So you are saying that only now you are thinking about doing this, I thought it was the plan since you chose to put ORIs.
:pimp:
Just remember you want to try and get it finished before Danger is too old to want to be with you. :whistle:
 
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