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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

Those inner axle seals require full differential dis-assembly to install. Are your current seals leaking? When you slide the shafts in to install them, they slide through the seals on each side of the pumpkin. If you look closely at your axle shafts, near the splined end you should see a smooth(er) area and that is where the shaft rides on the seal. Make any sense?

Wrong parts suck...I don't know much else that can be as frustrating. It's enough of an issue that I routinely compare old parts to new until I'm thoroughly satisfied new = old. I'm glad you finally got that sorted out!
 
Thanks guys. A dude in my town builds/sells 70s Chevy trucks for a living. I try not to bother him much, he's a busy dude, but since I was driving past his house earlier taking care of some horse stuff for my daughter, I stopped. He cleared up a few things for me. Pretty convenient when every friggin part you can imagine is sitting all over the place......he confirmed that where the axle shaft exits the axle it is just a little rubber 'seal' that really does not 'seal' anything, it's more of a dust cover. I wish I could download half of that guy's knowledge into my brain........When I left his house I stopped at TSC to pick up some more grinder consumables. Guy in line in front of me asks what I am working on......we end up bsing in the parking lot for almost an hour. He has two K5s, and his son has one......pretty cool.
 
Interesting. Got one cleaned, about to start the other and notice......they are not the same (recessed vs not recessed lugbolt seating area).

image.jpg
 
I see a pic like that and I am soooooooo grateful I built this for my shop......







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for a resto-y, heck, any mechanical job, it's invaluable... beats a parts washer anyday.... it's huge inside and it cost me like $400 to build.... should have built it 25 yr's ago...








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I see a pic like that and I am soooooooo grateful I built this for my shop......







100_0454_zps9db1c88c.jpg





100_0461_zps485359c8.jpg







100_0462_zps5b00c4c7.jpg





for a resto-y, heck, any mechanical job, it's invaluable... beats a parts washer anyday.... it's huge inside and it cost me like $400 to build.... should have built it 25 yr's ago...








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Showoff. :pimp:
 
just expressing how much I wish everyone had one.. it's beyond invaluable for older rigs, hotrods, etc........
 
ok, TPtools was my supplier.. you buy a DIY kit that has the gloves, lenses, etc... I recommend going for a foot pedal model... vastly superior to a trigger style... you can build the cab to any size you want.. just gotta buy a couple sheets of ply... comes with an instruction book... http://www.tptools.com/Build-Your-Own-Cabinet-and-Trim-Kits.html



there's a bit of the build in Mutt's thread.... and a few extra pics in my PB account, but here's the "build thread" I did for it... https://ck5.com/forums/threads/ryokens-diy-blast-cabinet-build.306932/
 
Wow. Thanks man. It's on the list. I read the build thread, does not look too painful. Would be great to have one......make things so much easier. I appreciate you digging it up!
 
yeah, it's a bit of work, and 4, 5 hundy, but it really is ridiculously useful.. everything from hood hinges to brackets, yada, rinse, repeat...

good to see you are back on track...
 
just expressing how much I wish everyone had one.. it's beyond invaluable for older rigs, hotrods, etc........
If I had an air compressor capable of supporting it I would already have built my own. Sure looks handy.
 
Awesome nowi dont have to back through your novels to see if you used the tip kit.

Cause I be planning on one when I get my shop built.
 
Freakin Spindle Bearings are driving me insane! I made up 3 or 4 'contraptions' to attempt to use my steering wheel puller - fail. Finally I turned to Google (scary how dependent we, as a society, are getting on it). Found out that Autozone rents a puller. Called, confirmed, will be there in the AM, I'm done for the night and switched to Silver Bullet. While searching for tips/tricks, I found a lot of 'Be careful when putting new one in, get depth correct.' Well, the Spicer manual, and both K5 shop manuals don't say anything about depth. Anyone know? Or is this just another Internet myth?
 
I hate spindle bearings.

It's pretty easy to see where they go once you start tapping em in
 
For anyone trying to change Spindle Bearings, I recommend going to Autozone and borrowing their puller. I've seen it called different things, but it has 2 (or 3 on some) little arms that extend down and are hooked 90 degrees at the ends. You screw the center down and it expands those arms so they can seat under the bearing lip. Screw in the slide hammer, brace against something (vice being ideal), and pull a few times. I brought the spindles with me in a box, used the vice on the end of the counter at Autozone and had them out in 5 minutes - free and easy. On one site a guy said he bought one at HF for $15; I just did not want to drive a hour and a half round trip to buy one.

On another note, for those like me (struggling through, asking lots of basic questions) the dude at Quad4x4 (or, TorqueKing) was VERY helpful, and very cool about it. Did not talk to me like I was mentally challenged, even though I was asking questions which, for him, were ridiculously basic. He explained everything, described parts very well so that we were on the same sheet of music, and figured out exactly which parts I needed. That has not been my experience everywhere, and I am very appreciate of the service. I figure we are all quick to point out when a place gets it wrong, I wanted to take a minute to throw out a thanks to a place that got it right!

Now let's see if I can seat those new Spindle Bearings without screwing them up...........Onward!
 

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