'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

[campfire]

The plot thickens!

View attachment 197373

Not sure if you've noticed, but you appear to be missing a washer.

 

[bp71k5]

There should also be a threaded insert on the inside of the top balljoint. You sure that isn't used to set the depth of the balljoint? Check the repair manual for what I mean. I think I remember it being something you don't adjust, but that's a weird issue in the exact same spot.

 

[joedragrace]

The picture of the steering knuckles in the box with the new ball joints installed, there are inserts on the top ball joints. Did you install those inserts in the housing before bolting
on the knuckle?

 

[Dirsuper]

Appreciate it guys. Yes, I put the sleeve in exactly as the Spicer manual said to. The only issue is with trying to torque it to 50. I could not quite hit 50, but still the top nut, even finger tight, is still below the cotter pin hole. I torqued the sleeve to around 40 (played with torque wrench to determine where I was). Over that, I was having a hard time getting the special socket to stay on the sleeve. I plan to mess with that some more as soon as I can.

I had to help a buddy with a resume last night (contractor looking for a more stable income/not have to pay a grand a month for medical insurance for his family) and I plan to actually write it for him tonight, so hopefully I have better info in a few days.

I know a washer would help, but it does not seem like the correct answer to me. Something has to be wrong.......however, playing with the sleeve, I know the inside is tapered (slightly) because it slides right over the ball joint 'stem' one way, and does not even fit over it.

 

[Dirsuper]

Guys, I might get more traffic somewhere else, and if so, please feel free to repost.

My WWII vet buddy, Ernie (93 yo WWII Vet running across country by himself), called me from AL today. Long story short, he needs me to pick up his '66 MG (which he bought brand new) from storage (long story) and store it at my place until he is done with his run. I am doing this only to help him out. No concern/thought/consideration of anything else. As my wife observed, "he called you because he knew you would simply get it done."

Problem - car trailer. Sure my friends have trailers, but not ones you do an 800 mile Cannonball Run with. The car is in Prescott, AZ. Any ideas where I can rent a trailer? U-Haul and the like were all strikeouts - ramps are too far apart to fit that car (it's tiny).

Any words of wisdom or ideas appreciated. I have to get it NLT 17 Feb 2016.

 

[blazinzuk]

Call normal equipment rental places.

Call trailer sales places.

That tiny car as long as the trailer is long enough should be able to get just about anything

 

[Bigblue7-2]

I've pulled cars before on equipment trailers as well. The ramps are usually adjustable. Sometimes just need wood to build up for the angle of the ramps. Good luck!! Rental places rent anything go for it.

 

[NorCal69]

Weld together one ramp that will hook onto the Uhaul trailer. Rent the trailer, throw the ramp in the back of the pick up after loading.

 

[Dirsuper]

Thanks for all of the help fellas. I found a place (national chain actually) called United Rental which has trailers that will work. Of course last night all of my contractor buddies are telling me just to use one of their trailers. I'll rent one. It's worth it, I've been on the side of the road at 0230 with a jacked up trailer before, it ain't fun.

As far as the front end issue, I finally got some time to mess with it earlier and I moved that sleeve all over the place. I cannot get 50psi of torque on it, but I did torque top bolt to 100, and bottom bolt to 80, per manual. It is very hard to turn, but I'm hoping that is just because everything is new. The cotter pin is just barely in the slot on the nut (right at the top of the slot), but it's enough to hold. I hope to get the other side done first thing in the morning and continue moving forward. Didn't get much done today, but at least I got that taken care of......Yesterday one of my Navy buddies called, he's in town from East coast.......I tell my wife and she starts inviting people over......I end up having a party. About midnight me and my buddy (feeling no pain) are talking about running up this mountain near my house when we wake up. We get up, slam some coffee, and start the 'Your call bro, I'm good either way....' Neither wants to call it. Off we go.....two VERY competitive and very physical guys. I am friggin wrecked! We made it there and back, but man that was a workout, especially doing it just a little hungover! Cool part is my buddy will be here next weekend as well and will make the trip to Prescott and back with me (he was with me the past two years when we met Ernie, so he gets it).

I love my friggin shop......all the boys out here last night standing around the Blazer throwing out ideas.....great stuff. No man (well, except them emasculated Metrosexual things) can stand in a shop and not be....stoked.

 

[ashman]

amen brother! Standing in a shop next to a first gen blazer shootin' the sh!t with a bunch of like-minded guys is pretty freakin' sweet.

 

[Dirsuper]

Amen to that one!
BT
Getting my ass kicked by (of all things), friggin U-Joints.

I ordered this kit: http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/moog-ujoint-packagedeal014

Which states the following:
Front Driveshaft CV at Transfer Case - (varies)

• Front Driveshaft CV at Transfer Case - (varies)

• Front Driveshaft at Front Axle - 369 - QTY 1

• Rear Driveshaft at Transmission - 369 - QTY 1

• Rear Driveshaft at Rear Axle - 369 - QTY 1

• Front Axle Shaft Left Outer - 371 - QTY 1

• Front Axle Shaft Right Outer - 371 - QTY 1

Problem - 371s are HUGE. ZERO chance of them fitting in those holes. The "varies" turned out to be 379 (not supposed to be for axle shaft, but they are closest fit (if you are supposed to have to really bang them in)).

Searched MOOG's website and found this: http://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstore...2&make=Chevrolet&models=Blazer#horizontalTab1

MOOG Greaseable Super Srength U-joint
Part Number: 377
| 0 Reviews
where to buy
Fits: 1972 Chevrolet Blazer

Searched Rockauto and found this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...id+v8,1029259,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392
MOOG 377 Greasable Super Strength Info

Fits Front Axle Shaft - Right Outer
Or Front Axle Shaft - Left Outer

Two for 377.

Anyone know which ones fit the axle shafts?

Also, the insides of the area where the caps go in have no grooves. I assume that's "inside" lock rings?

I really appreciate any insight.

Thanks fellas.

Oh, and the 'tightness' of the steering knuckle.......So I assembled the driver's side one Sunday morning and noticed that it turned fine. So, I went back to passenger side......took it all apart and put it back together - better. Not perfect, but much better.

 

[Dirsuper]

Ok, got that taken care of - long story. They sent me the wrong parts. Question - Rotors/Hubs: Do you have to press out the studs to separate the two?

 

[campfire]

Ok, got that taken care of - long story. They sent me the wrong parts. Question - Rotors/Hubs: Do you have to press out the studs to separate the two?

Yes, the studs hold the two together. You don't need a press to do the job, though, a hammer will do a fine job.

 

[blazinzuk]

Brass hammer does the job with zero damage

 

[Dirsuper]

After getting the wrong U-joints a second time, I took the axle shafts to my local NAPA. Turns out my front diff is a '71. Interesting. Got the hub/rotor apart in 10 seconds - studs came right out. I slid the axle shaft into the axle just to see how everything fit. Is there supposed to be a seal/dust shield/whatever where the axle shaft comes out of the axle? Seems weird that it is just open at the end.

Also, with the shaft all the way in I turn it either way and the part sticking out of the differential (where the front drive shaft connects) does not turn.......I would think it should.....any thoughts?

 

[campfire]

After getting the wrong U-joints a second time, I took the axle shafts to my local NAPA. Turns out my front diff is a '71. Interesting. Got the hub/rotor apart in 10 seconds - studs came right out. I slid the axle shaft into the axle just to see how everything fit. Is there supposed to be a seal/dust shield/whatever where the axle shaft comes out of the axle? Seems weird that it is just open at the end.

Also, with the shaft all the way in I turn it either way and the part sticking out of the differential (where the front drive shaft connects) does not turn.......I would think it should.....any thoughts?

Don't know about the seal, but if one axle shaft is removed, spinning the other will just rotate the spider gears inside the diff. I would not expect to see the pinion turning unless the other shaft was restrained in some manner. Unless you're hiding a locker in there.

 

[Dirsuper]

Thank you!

I found this on RockAuto, any ideas where it goes?

CHEVROLET 1972 BLAZER 5.7L 350cid V8 Drivetrain Axle Shaft Seal
TIMKEN 5131 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers4116366, 6273977, 8124630, 8124832, 83501009, C6TZ3254C, J8129096} Info

Front; 4WD; AWD

Most Timken seals have the following properties:

• Machined rubber sealing edge provides greater accuracy and consistency, as well as a better sealing surface.
• A flanged design allows for easier and proper installation and helps avoid cocking.
• A latex bore coat seals the outer diameter leak path and helps compensate for minor bore imperfections.
• An extra dust lip helps keep harmful contaminants, such as dirt, out of the bearing and protects against rust and corrosion.

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4116366, 6273977, 8124630, 8124832, 83501009, C6TZ3254C, J8129096

TIMKEN Warranty

 

[campfire]

Thank you!

I found this on RockAuto, any ideas where it goes?

CHEVROLET 1972 BLAZER 5.7L 350cid V8 Drivetrain Axle Shaft Seal
TIMKEN 5131 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers4116366, 6273977, 8124630, 8124832, 83501009, C6TZ3254C, J8129096} Info

Front; 4WD; AWD

Most Timken seals have the following properties:

• Machined rubber sealing edge provides greater accuracy and consistency, as well as a better sealing surface.
• A flanged design allows for easier and proper installation and helps avoid cocking.
• A latex bore coat seals the outer diameter leak path and helps compensate for minor bore imperfections.
• An extra dust lip helps keep harmful contaminants, such as dirt, out of the bearing and protects against rust and corrosion.

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4116366, 6273977, 8124630, 8124832, 83501009, C6TZ3254C, J8129096

TIMKEN Warranty

View attachment 198688

I think this "Axle Shaft Seal" goes on the "Axle Shaft" to help it "seal."

Hope this helps...

 

[Dirsuper]

Yeah, I know it sounds like a dumb (er - than I usually ask) question, but I don't know if that is the one that goes inside the pumpkin, or if there is supposed to be one where the shaft exits the actual axle housing. Also, I'm moving a little slow today......had some Navy buddies over last night......my shop looked like a Coors Light truck crashed into it when I came out this morning.

 

[campfire]

Yeah, I know it sounds like a dumb (er - than I usually ask) question, but I don't know if that is the one that goes inside the pumpkin, or if there is supposed to be one where the shaft exits the actual axle housing. Also, I'm moving a little slow today......had some Navy buddies over last night......my shop looked like a Coors Light truck crashed into it when I came out this morning.

Naww...your question is fine. It's my answer that's useless.