'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

[tRustyK5]

I'd pass on the 750 carb too. No choke is BS, and it's too big.

 

[Dirsuper]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the input. I only chose the one I did because the shop that did the machine work recommended it. He did state (a few times) that my engine "Is not a performance engine." Which I knew, but I thought it funny how he said it 4-5 times during our conversation....it was the owner of the shop I was bsing with. Seemed like a good dude......in other words, he and I align politically. Seriously though, the choices I posted are what he said, but regarding carb, he only said, (reading from my notes - I'm anal like that.....) "Holley 4150 series with a square bore and mechanical secondary." To be honest, I only chose the 750 because it was cheaper than the 650 (which fit the other criteria) and I don't know enough to know if it matters. The reason I chose no choke is because of the weather around here.....and because my K20 does not have a choke and I never have a problem starting it. Long way of saying, I am open to, and appreciative of, suggestions.

 

[82355]

Why mechanical secondaries?

Martin

 

[Dirsuper]

Why mechanical secondaries?

Martin

I have no idea.....to be honest, I don't even know what that means (beyond what I can infer using common sense.......secondaries open based on throttle position, not load?????).

 

[82355]

Correct. A "double pumper" if you will.

Martin

 

[tRustyK5]

I think a vac secondary, electric choke 650ish cfm Holley of some flavor is going to provide the best overall result for a "not a performance" 350 in a 4x4.

A 750 double pumper without choke is great for a somewhat hot 350 in a street/strip car.

 

[joedragrace]

@joedragrace It doesn't look like the intake manifold you suggested works with his '87-'95 heads.

Other than the electric choke, is the 670cfm better suited for his engine than the 750cfm he listed?

I missed that info about the heads. Thought he was using the stock heads.

 

[Dirsuper]

I really appreciate it guys. Looks like consensus opinion is that Joedragrace's recommendation on carb is way to go!

 

[joedragrace]

I really appreciate it guys. Looks like consensus opinion is that Joedragrace's recommendation on carb is way to go!

If you wanted to use a spread bore carb, this looks like a good option. You eliminate the problems associated with throttle/transmission kick down linkage, fuel line hookup, and vaccum
source for power brakes. http://jetchip.com/shop/performance...uadrajet/rochester-q-jet-stage-2-light-truck/ Summit has them for about the same price, and you MIGHT,
(heavy on the might) get a little better mileage. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jet-36002

 

[GWeakland620]

I absolutely loved my Holley Truck Avenger. Best carb I've ever ran. Nothing but good things to say about it. And it worked even better offroad.

 

[Dirsuper]

Great carb info guys - really appreciate it.

Anyone know what the black stuff is in the indentations? Something that comes with the oil pan/"wears out", or just RTV? It looks almost like a.......foam of some type.

 

[tRustyK5]

Old baked on gasket material...a wire wheel should get that off/out.

 

[Dirsuper]

Thank you TRusty!

Got the steering mostly together. Scratched the shit out of the drag link opening it up, so it's drying. Did get the rag joint/steering shaft/colum all together. Does the crossmember (motor mount set up) look correct (below), or is it backwards (somehow I did not take a before pic).

Also got a big delivery today - all the final parts to complete the dash cluster - grommets, vacuum line, switches, etc......Woot woot!

 

[toomany]

Not the best picture, but here is mine before I removed it. I replaced it with the Diy4x one, mostly to get away from the stock style motor mounts.

For some reason yours looks backwards to me.

Edit: Forgot about the stupid photobucket thing going on. I'll see if I can find a direct link.

 

[toomany]

Lets try uploading directly.

 

[Dirsuper]

How did I miss that one! The ability to drop the oil pan is freaking YUGE! Does this: http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17688&cat=252&page=1
Include the motor mounts, or is that an additional product?

 

[toomany]

Yes it includes the mounts with it. They are the rubber bushings in the pic.

Here is mine installed. And another from the front of the frame. There is no oil pan on in this pic, but I'd guess there would be plenty of room. Plus you can remove the center section.

 

[Dirsuper]

Awesome - Done. Will order tomorrow. Really appreciate info. At this point, I'd be remiss not to install that........simply for the ability to drop the oil pan with ease. BTW, what did you paint your frame with? Looks really solid.

 

[toomany]

The frame was painted with regular Rustoleum and a brush after a coat of zinc primer. I went with brush over spray mainly for overspray control. Two heavy/wet coats were put on. There are a few runs, but it's a truck frame. All the pieces that bolt on were done with spray can. Touch ups are easy to match, there have been a few spots that I've had to drill holes already.

 

[Dirsuper]

I like it (your frame) - looks tough. Lesson learned for me is to put some kind of protective clear coat on the frame. I am scratching the shit out of everything as I try to put this thing together. Granted, I went rattle can over other methods (brush would accomplish same) so that I can touch it up......actually, brush would be easier for touch-up (no need to cover stuff).......oh well, live and learn. As you said, it's a truck frame.

Ordered that crossmember for DIY4X4. Can't thank you enough for letting me know about that......first time I have to drop the oil pan it will be worth every penny!