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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

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I appreciate everything guys. I have been thinking about Greg's advice all day while sitting in boring meetings. I was also thinking about those springs on my rig vs. some others I have seen. I am starting to wonder if just one extra spring is added ghetto style......if that's the case, a 1" zero rate (after removing that ghetto set up) would alleviate the entire 'problem.' DIY4X also has shackles, so that's another possible source depending on $$$ differences. Anyone know how many leaves the stock rear springs on a '72 K5 had?

As far as tire location, I don't understand (as in, not arguing, just admitting my ignorance) how the shackle flip prevents the pushed forward tire issue. DIY4X's website mentions being able to 'change location.' If anyone can enlighten me, I would appreciate it.....or, don't waste your time, I'll search tomorrow (can't access the site from home.......only site on the Internet that I am aware of that I cannot access - weird). I do look at it on my phone, but that gets annoying when trying to search and stuff. How much are we talking about moving (forward/back).....enough to have driveshaft issues?

It's getting hilarious, every time my wife walks out to the shop at night now I am (basically) standing there staring at that thing.......some say I am obsessive.....bah!
 
The pushed forward wheel thing comes from using large lift springs. The shackle flip helps avoid that by using stock or low lift springs. The flip kit also tends to angle the driveshaft upward a bit so the angle isn't as likely to be out of operating range.

Of course if you have money burning a hole in your pocket, having custom springs made can solve all of those problems and ride a ton better too.
 
You will most likely be pushing the axle back with a 1" zero rate and using the 1.5" offset mounting hole...

The problem with the lift spring idea, is that you'll already be too tall out back and won't want to add the extra 1"...

You can also add a set of custom offset leaf spring mounting pads (how I did it) which requires some welding. Honestly, if I had just done the zero-rate block, I wouldn't have needed to lengthen my stock shackles to get my stance exactly right... :thinking:

-G
 
bp71k5 said:
The pushed forward wheel thing comes from using large lift springs.....
Click to expand...

Actually, even a 100% bone stock 1st Gen has that weird pushed-forward axle too. It's less noticeable with a small, stock sized tire but it's there. Bolting of set of larger tires just blocks out more of the empty space in the wheelwell and really makes it much more pronounced.


-G
 
Picked up my first 'adult' jack on the way home from the airport the other day. This thing rocks!

Uhm....added picture.....Doh!

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Friggin great day here in Ramona - rocks 75% complete. Been working like an Egyptian slave since the truck and transfer left. Sold the wife's old car (in the distance of pic where I am working and my daughter is playing)- $3K to the K5 build, the rest to help our savings (took a huge hit from going almost $40K over on shop). I am stoked!!!!
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So you are at the point that I am in my build (nowhere, due to lack of $$$) and you find yourself with $3k. What do you do first? My first thought is get the lift kit and all required bushings, bearings, etc to rebuild suspension (front and rear) and steering. Along the way clean/paint the undercarriage. Am I wrong, am I missing something? The bummer is that $3k is exactly what I need to buy a lift (like, one that lifts cars), but if I do that then I can lift up the Blazer and just stare at it for another 3 months.......because I will not have the money to buy parts.
 
Dirsuper said:
So you are at the point that I am in my build (nowhere, due to lack of $$$) and you find yourself with $3k. What do you do first? My first thought is get the lift kit and all required bushings, bearings, etc to rebuild suspension (front and rear) and steering. Along the way clean/paint the undercarriage. Am I wrong, am I missing something? The bummer is that $3k is exactly what I need to buy a lift (like, one that lifts cars), but if I do that then I can lift up the Blazer and just stare at it for another 3 months.......because I will not have the money to buy parts.
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I've built my entire truck so far without ever having access to a 2-post lift....

In a perfect world, it would be nice to have one but I certainly would not spend a recent $3000 windfall on it.


Start putting together your parts list and put prices next to the items....

Rear suspension shouldn't be THAT expensive.....shackleflip, stock 80s springs, zerorate, greasable bushing kits, u-Bolt flip kit.
Front suspension will probably be a bit more because you're buying a new set of lift springs.
Rear driveshaft may end up a bit short once you get the axle centered correctly. It depends on how much slipjoint you have now. I think mine grew by about 1" once everything else was dialed-in.

Cleaning of parts, frame and fresh paint on things as you go will be a great feeling of progress and won't cost you all that much except for labor.
Not sure what your plans are for shocks, wheels and tires, but obviously there is quite a bit of money potentially waiting to be spent there as well.

Get everything down on paper and we can help you fill in the stuff you forgot... then it's just a matter of prioritizing the list and going as far down the list as you can get before the money runs out!!! :D


-G
 
Great stuff Greg. Yeah, no way I would buy the lift instead of parts, but it is funny that I have the exact amount of extra cash. I'll make a list over Thanksgiving while dying of boredom at my wife's parents house up in Visalia.
I was thinking that I would not have to buy springs for the rear, but just do the flip and a zero rate. Do you think I need to buy new springs? I would think any used spring is likely to sag just as much. Hell, my '88 sits 1 and 1/4" lower in the rear....I need to put a zero rate in, but just add it to the list.
 
Dirsuper said:
Great stuff Greg. Yeah, no way I would buy the lift instead of parts, but it is funny that I have the exact amount of extra cash. I'll make a list over Thanksgiving while dying of boredom at my wife's parents house up in Visalia.
I was thinking that I would not have to buy springs for the rear, but just do the flip and a zero rate. Do you think I need to buy new springs? I would think any used spring is likely to sag just as much. Hell, my '88 sits 1 and 1/4" lower in the rear....I need to put a zero rate in, but just add it to the list.
Click to expand...

The only reason that I keep mentioning the later model springs is because the stock 1st Gen springs are quite a bit stiffer (by design) and don't have the nice Teflon inserts to help reduce friction.... and of course you're going to spend a lot of time pulling the stock leaf pack apart to clean, paint and re-assemble as well as adding a new center pins to replace the ones that are probably pretty thin from 40+ years of wear/rust.

My truck was all set up with the shackleflip and stock 1st Gen springs and I decided to just try the swap to see if I could feel any difference (they were given to me for free, so I was only out a couple hours of labor)... the softer ride was much closer to what I'd also achieved with a nice soft front leaf pack (4" lift from ORD). Add a good quality set of shocks to the mix and I think you'll be pretty impressed with how well such an old truck will actually drive.

Greasable bushings throughout help a lot too. The stock stuff is undoubtedly frozen solid and dry-rotted at this point. It's kind of a hassle to drill/burn out the old bushings but the end result makes it worth the effort. Stiff/old bushings will make a truck appear to be much more stiffly sprung than it actually is.... ORD sells all the proper bolts for this too. Just be sure to tell them if you are planning to use a later rear springpack... IIRC the diameter of the bushings are different from early to later models. I just can't remember the specifics anymore.

A lot of guys will swap out all the body mounts for polyurethane, but if you want a more comfortable and less squeaky ride.... you'd be well advised to seek out a set of OEM rubber mounts. It will probably cost you close to $200 for a complete set with all the special washers, sleeves and unusual bolt lengths... but rubber will last you another 20 years and will keep things comfortable vs. poly.


-G
 
Understand all, thank you very much. I'll start looking for springs. It's gonna take me months just to get the front end done (with all the other stuff I have going on), so no hurry on the rear. Once I power wash that thing really well, it's going up on jack stands where it will likely remain for a really long time.
 
Dirsuper said:
Understand all, thank you very much. I'll start looking for springs. It's gonna take me months just to get the front end done (with all the other stuff I have going on), so no hurry on the rear. Once I power wash that thing really well, it's going up on jack stands where it will likely remain for a really long time.
Click to expand...


Yeah, do the front first..... You can't really do much to tweak ride height up front, so you will want that completed before you do the rear. You've got lots of options out back to get things "dialed" perfectly.


-G
 
Anyone have thoughts on a Plasma Cutter? A PO of my '72 added the most jacked up/odd looking/insanely 'integrated' tow hitch I have ever seen. It has 3/8" steel plate all over the place, even to the point that you can't remove the rear diff cover with it in the way. I was looking that monstrosity over last night and dreading the thought of trying to cut it off with the angle grinder and cutting wheels. As a novice (and learning every day) welder, I often wish I could make precise cuts more easily, so it's not like I am buying it just for that tow hitch, but that's a good example. Either plasma or a cutting torch, but I have read that with plasma you can get much cleaner cuts and avoid 'warping' surrounding metal/causing issues from the heat. That is a concern because the friggin gas tank is locked in right now thanks to that 'tow hitch.' I am paranoid about welding or using a torch near a gas tank. Besides, now that I weld I am getting all kinds of requests for various items for Christmas gifts......plasma cutter would make that cutting much easier.
 
Dirsuper said:
Anyone have thoughts on a Plasma Cutter? A PO of my '72 added the most jacked up/odd looking/insanely 'integrated' tow hitch I have ever seen. It has 3/8" steel plate all over the place, even to the point that you can't remove the rear diff cover with it in the way. I was looking that monstrosity over last night and dreading the thought of trying to cut it off with the angle grinder and cutting wheels. As a novice (and learning every day) welder, I often wish I could make precise cuts more easily, so it's not like I am buying it just for that tow hitch, but that's a good example. Either plasma or a cutting torch, but I have read that with plasma you can get much cleaner cuts and avoid 'warping' surrounding metal/causing issues from the heat. That is a concern because the friggin gas tank is locked in right now thanks to that 'tow hitch.' I am paranoid about welding or using a torch near a gas tank. Besides, now that I weld I am getting all kinds of requests for various items for Christmas gifts......plasma cutter would make that cutting much easier.
Click to expand...


Skip the plasma.... :deal:

Try a Saw-Z-All with a good bi-metal blade for cutting through that hitch. It's won't be as "cool" as spraying sparks and molten metal everywhere like the plasma will do, but it's a lot cheaper and probably safer since you're working around a gas tank.

My plasma (Hypertherm 600) is rarely used these days. I like it for cutting out straight sections of thick 1/4" plate where I can use a straight-edge for accuracy. But there is always a slight angle to plasma cuts and quite a bit of cleanup afterwards to get the edges looking decent. I've seen the videos showing perfect, clean cuts...but even with a really good inline air dryer and a steady hand, I've never been able to replicate that look in my own shop.

Put the money into the suspension parts you need. I think you'll regret sinking SO much money into a specialty tool like a plasma cutter.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
Skip the plasma...I think you'll regret sinking SO much money into a specialty tool like a plasma cutter.
Click to expand...

This. That's a lot of funding to sink into a tool that most folks will hardly ever use.

If you had a base of customers lined up to buy custom cut pieces, that would be different. But there's no benefit to chasing a pipe dream if you don't have a good reason for doing so. :deal:
 
Also, using a plasma cutter next to the gas tank isn't really safer than using a torch. Both of them are supremely foolish ideas. :doah:
 
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