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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

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Right on! I've never done any 'social media' like Facebook or any of that nonsense, but this site is really cool. Appreciate you guys shaping it into a great community.

Most of this progress is from yesterday (pre-back issue), but I got a tiny bit done tonight before the back said - "We're done."

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Dirsuper said:
These wire wheels suck. Anyone know a good brand?

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Watch your MAX RPM ratings too.... Throwing a wire wheel into a high-speed grinder (with a fixed RPM that's WAY above the wire wheel spec) can be pretty damn dangerous.... As you have already experienced, the steel wires go everywhere. If your lucky they only go into your clothes instead of your hands, arms and face.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
If your lucky they only go into your clothes instead of your hands, arms and face.
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You are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and a face mask (etc.), right? I have done this a few times, and seldom gotten a wire to contact my skin...when I was wearing appropriate PPE.
 
I did not even think of a variable speed angle grinder - this is a "We landed on the moon"(Dumb & Dumber) moment for me!
PPE - always. You don't spend 24 years in Navy Engineeering plants and treat safety lightly. It's all fun and games until you are in the hospital. Steamers (thick fire retardant coveralls) boots, gloves, face shield, respirator, ear plugs - I've had enough injuries, I don't need new ones.
 
Dirsuper said:
I did not even think of a variable speed angle grinder - this is a "We landed on the moon"(Dumb & Dumber) moment for me!
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:haha: love that movie... :waytogo: Lloyd Christmas brings the funnay.


Like so many things, the specific technique you use makes all the difference in the final result. If you jam a wire wheel into a corner and lay into it hard, you aren't likely to remove much rust.... But you are very likely to destroy the wheel. If you use a fiber coated wheel with light pressure, you can remove a LOT of crud from the frame...but if it gets too hot, you just get a smeared mess of rubberized undercoating in big streaks everywhere.

My best advice is just to try different techniques and pay attention to what is working, and what helps you to conserve your consumables.


-G
 
Thanks man, I'm going to grab an air one from HF tomorrow.
Love this heater! It gets cold where I live, we're up in higher elevation.

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I haven't been following every post, but I don't if the guys have mentioned 1/4 angle die grinder and Roloc disks. They will help you get into a lot of those smaller areas. Pretty much my go to, tool during fab.

I know Greg gets his Roloc's online, I get a lot of mine from Fasenal. I get both sizes. The larger and the smaller in the 36, 60, 80 maroon and blue. Pretty much great for everything. Take what Greg said and think about it. Consumables will eat you alive. I know for a fact that between, Paul, Greg and my build on CK5, we have spent over 10k just on consumables. That part of the build sucks and never gets added up.





Well, unless you're Greg. lol
 
Yet again, something I never heard/thought of, yet looks like exactly what I need for the tight spots. Not to mention, a small die grinder will be much lighter than my angle grinders. Do those pads stay on the holder well? Are they adhesive backed? I'm going shopping at Harbor Freight today and plan to pick up a few different die grinders, Roloc disks, and anything else that looks like it would be helpful. As far as spending money......I hear you - if I kept track I would probably be pissed at myself for spending so much. Fortunately, there's so much moving through the house right now, the wife won't even notice......we got our daughter a horse for Christmas, so we've had to get any tack we did not have yet, supplies, etc. Timing, it's all about timing. One stupid meeting and then off to HF to do some shopping.
 
Dirsuper said:
Yet again, something I never heard/thought of, yet looks like exactly what I need for the tight spots. Not to mention, a small die grinder will be much lighter than my angle grinders. Do those pads stay on the holder well? Are they adhesive backed? I'm going shopping at Harbor Freight today and plan to pick up a few different die grinders, Roloc disks, and anything else that looks like it would be helpful. As far as spending money......I hear you - if I kept track I would probably be pissed at myself for spending so much. Fortunately, there's so much moving through the house right now, the wife won't even notice......we got our daughter a horse for Christmas, so we've had to get any tack we did not have yet, supplies, etc. Timing, it's all about timing. One stupid meeting and then off to HF to do some shopping.
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The 3M Rolocs that I use have a small threaded plastic "nub" on the back.... you buy a 2" or 3" backing pad that installs into your die grinder and then the Rolocs just spin on and off pretty easily.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
The 3M Rolocs that I use have a small threaded plastic "nub" on the back.... you buy a 2" or 3" backing pad that installs into your die grinder and then the Rolocs just spin on and off pretty easily.


-G
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That's exactly what I use too. Very handy to have for all of our projects.

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I live by the 24 grit 2" er's...



be aware, that you do kinda get what you pay for with rolocs... the genuine 3M backing pads are VASTLY better than the cr@ppy ones from HF and other sources.... you can tell the 3M ones cuz the arbor is molded right into the pad.. cheapies are threaded in.... also the 3M discs are a lot better too.. that said, I do often buy bags of "other" brand discs off eghey, Rourke, etc.... for some jobs, you're slaughtering the pads so fast, the cheapies are actually more desirable than high end 3M green corps and such..... tho I always prefer having the 3M backing pads around....
 
I know it's not highest quality, but for $140 I got those and two plastic bags full of various 2" & 3" consumables (and a new box of ear plugs).
It will get me started.

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Dirsuper said:
I know it's not highest quality, but for $140 I got those and two plastic bags full of various 2" & 3" consumables (and a new box of ear plugs).
It will get me started.

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Not bad. That will get you started.... :waytogo:

Until you get serious about a water separator for your compressor, the residual moisture in the lines will tear-up air tools anyway.....

When you get a good dry air setup, you can start to think about more expensive, higher-quality air tools.


-G
 
Funny you say that, I was just on the Ingersoll-Rand website reading about water separators. My compressor is Ingersoll-Rand and my impact gun and air ratchet are also Ingersoll-Rand. Quite an investment, and I would like to protect them. My shop has black steel (or cast iron....I don't remember) pipe run throughout with air drops where I asked for them. There is no drain, first problem. It looks like you are supposed to install the water separator between the steel pipe and the hose for the tools. That would mean I would need multiple separators, as I have multiple drops. Also, since the pipe is rigid and runs down the walls, etc., it's not like you can just 'slide the pipe down' to fit in the separator. I've really just started looking into this, but it is an issue I want to take care of ASAP - I don't want to ruin tools, and it would be nice to be able to blast.
 
Compressed air is hot, so you need to find a way to cool the compressed air to get the moisture to condense. They sell chillers which basically a glorified dorm fridge with a lot of copper tubing inside to bring the temps down.... if you installed that somewhere close to the compressor and then ran a traditional dessicant-style filter afterwards, you could probably do all of your splits and routing to the air drops knowing that they all had dry air.

A simple thing to do if your drops are vertical on the walls is to run an additional "stub" of black pipe below the connector where the air line splices in so that water inside the pipes can fall BELOW the airline and gather harmlessly. Mount a ball valve down there and you can occasionally purge out the lines and look for signs of water.... if you've done the rest of the design properly there really shouldn't be anything coming out when you crack those valves open.

Rubber is a great insulator, so if you are using a 50' length of hose to run your tools, the air is staying hot and wet. Most water separators (dessicants) don't work that well at pulling moisture from hot air so even if you put it REALLLY close to where your tools are, odds are good that you will still see water dripping out of the exhaust ports on your tools...

A lot of guys will use a few drops of ATF in their tools to lubricate them. Until you get your air supply and water separators dialed-in, it would make sense to add a few drops of ATF to your tools at the end of each session and then give the trigger a quick burst to help get that oil distributed internally. It's not a substitute for a good air setup, but it will help prevent rusting and let you make forward progress on the frame project.


-G
 
Great stuff. I know the air is getting cold because the other day I was using the blower gun (doing a detailed blow down of the shop) and had to put on a glove because it was too cold to hold it after a while. The closest drop to the compressor still has about 35 feet of piping between it and the compressor. The compressor is outside (I built a little cover for it that extends down about 3' all around) and I do have a drop that's a good 60' of piping from the compressor. I don't use that drop (I put it there in just in case), so I think I'll put a ball valve on that pipe for now. It's the furthest and hangs pretty low. The guy who plumbed the shop (as in, fire sprinklers, toilet, and deep sink) also installed the air piping, and my general contractor installed/set up the compressor for me. They probably just assumed that I knew I needed to install a water separator.......

I did pick up some air tool oil at HF, and the first thing I will do tonight is oil all of them. I'm also going to blow some air onto a piece of wood so I can see how much moisture is in there.

Appreciate all of the information.......it never ends......I also noticed when I was leaving for work that a friggin gopher hole has diverted water before it is getting to that drain we put in....and running it under my dirt driveway, which is going to create an issue. Yet another project, mix up some concrete and fill that hole tonight, in the rain and mud - fun stuff! It's ok though, the outlaws arrive today so having an 'acute drainage issue' I 'have to fix right away' will be an ideal diversion.....and where I will be working I have to walk past the shop to get to....where the fridge sits, which I just stocked with Silver Bullet last night......this concrete job will take HOURS.......
 
Greg72 said:
Compressed air is hot, so you need to find a way to cool the compressed air to get the moisture to condense. They sell chillers which basically a glorified dorm fridge with a lot of copper tubing inside to bring the temps down.... if you installed that somewhere close to the compressor and then ran a traditional dessicant-style filter afterwards, you could probably do all of your splits and routing to the air drops knowing that they all had dry air.

A simple thing to do if your drops are vertical on the walls is to run an additional "stub" of black pipe below the connector where the air line splices in so that water inside the pipes can fall BELOW the airline and gather harmlessly. Mount a ball valve down there and you can occasionally purge out the lines and look for signs of water.... if you've done the rest of the design properly there really shouldn't be anything coming out when you crack those valves open.

Rubber is a great insulator, so if you are using a 50' length of hose to run your tools, the air is staying hot and wet. Most water separators (dessicants) don't work that well at pulling moisture from hot air so even if you put it REALLLY close to where your tools are, odds are good that you will still see water dripping out of the exhaust ports on your tools...

A lot of guys will use a few drops of ATF in their tools to lubricate them. Until you get your air supply and water separators dialed-in, it would make sense to add a few drops of ATF to your tools at the end of each session and then give the trigger a quick burst to help get that oil distributed internally. It's not a substitute for a good air setup, but it will help prevent rusting and let you make forward progress on the frame project.


-G
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There are dedicated air tool oils if you wanna get fancy with your oiling.
 
campfire said:
There are dedicated air tool oils if you wanna get fancy with your oiling.
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True.

Just don't forget which is which and accidentally plug in expensive new Iwata or SATA paint guns in by mistake!!!



:yikes:


-G
 
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