CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

I just did a lot of the same stuff, and u joints were a pain in my ass too. I had to cut one of the old ones out. i couldn't get them out... Nice work btw!:thumb:
 
More details:

or over 30 Years, Our Commitment to You:
First Class Quality, In Stock Availability, The Right Part...the First Time!
plus...Montana is a Sales Tax Free State, We NEVER Charge YOU SALES TAX!!!
NEW NAME! QUAD 4x4 is now Torque King 4x4....and New Products!
We now have 4x4 accessories like winches, grill guards, and more in addition to 4x4 drivetrain parts!
Call 406-384-0270 or Toll-Free 1-866-251-6762

qu40043sj.jpg

QU40043 Early Type Dana Front Axle Spindle to Axle Shaft Seal fits 1967-1974 Dana 30 and Dana 44 axles with QU40324 2" outside diameter Spindle Slinger. This one piece Seal was used on most 1967-1972 4x4's with open knuckle front axles plus a few models from all manufacturers as late as 1974. Imported.
Also see QK4756 Spindle Seal and Thrust Washer Kit.
 
So, that's an early D44 part...never seen that before either.
 
Thanks bix. I am loving this! Total blast - learning a ton, laughing at myself a lot. Lots of great people on here, total game changer. Hell, if not for Greg's pushing I would have p^$$ied out of taking the body off the frame! Now I am true convert. Thankful for that encouragement, and all of the help along the way.
 
I don't know if it an early part, or an "upgrade"?

I have never seen one of those before, I also don't mess with anything older than '73.

Martin
 
Pushed it outside to let it get some sun while the PB Blaster soaked. Turned it around and pulled out the rear end. Gonna wire wheel it clean tomorrow, paint, and start on the shackle flip. What a blast!

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg
 
Anyone got tips for getting the shackle out? I soaked it overnight with PB Blaster, it flips back and forth it's so loose, but when I hammer on the bolt it sounds like it is actually part of the frame. I'm hoping cutting the bolts is not the answer, but I have no idea.

image.jpg
 
Cutting the bolt is the answer. Thin cut-off disc between the shackle and the hanger...you'll probably need to cut both sides, then get all viking on the bushing. Some people burn them out, some people drill a lot of holes in the bushing rubber until it finally can be hammered out. I'm amazed you got the bolt out of the spring.
 
just to carry on what Rene was describing.... that bolt, is now welded/rusted/married to the metal sleeve that runs thru the bushing... as mentioned, a thin cut off between the hangar and bushing on either side.. you can cut the head/nut off and spread the hangar to remove, than bend in, worst case scenario...
 
Thanks man, sounds like tomorrow's worklist. Do the new bushings need to be pressed in?

Oh, and for others - lesson learned: If you are doing a shackle flip with stock (or 'new' stock like me) springs, order new U-bolts with the kit (or at least at the same time). I was sandblasting everything at o'dark thirty this morning (not much light), so I get it all in place to paint it later on and notice.......3 of the U-bolts have really jacked up threads. Went to every parts store in the Thriving Metropolis of Ramona, CA - ZERO that fit what I need. So I ordered those........and am now realizing I need new bushings and bolts for the shackle.....oh well, I'm learning.....and learning......it's all good. I'm in no hurry.
 
Holy $hit! I probably went through $50 of consumables (pic is only what has not made it to the trash can yet) getting this ONE thing off. Yeah, I'd say I got my ass kicked today!

image.jpg
 
Holy $hit! I probably went through $50 of consumables (pic is only what has not made it to the trash can yet) getting this ONE thing off. Yeah, I'd say I got my ass kicked today!

View attachment 201903

So worth it though.... I hope you are planning to swap over to a greaseable bolt/bushing like ORD sells?

Now that you realize how frozen that bushing was, it should be obvious that your spring rate was effectively a LOT stiffer as a result. With a nice greased bushing it will turn like it's supposed to and work a lot better.

Another tip: Buy a cylindrical flap wheel (or two) and use them to clean up the inner bore of those factory shackles. I couldn't get a replacement bushing back in there until I cleaned-up that bore and opened it up slightly. They should be little hard to press in, but not so hard that you end up destroying them with a huge hydraulic press.


-G
 
Thanks Greg - good to see you up and about again. Yes, for these - greasable. No question.

Anyone have ideas on this one...... I just noticed that the camber is off......top of tire is out a bit further. I pulled off the tire and everything seems ok. I even put a different tire/wheel back on - looks the same. What could I have screwed up to cause this?

image.jpg
 
No camber adjustment on these, but I figured it out. It's an optical illusion, they are actually toed in, which makes sense, I just rebuilt the entire front end, obviously it needs an alignment. I can't freaking believe how much I am learning doing this build.....very cool. Exactly what I wanted. Hell, today I noticed the '88 (K5) had grease coming out from around the locking hub. Previously I would have been thinking, 'oh shit.' But instead I just thought, "Seal is shot, I need to pull apart the hub and rebuild it - easy."
 
There's either an eccentric upper or lower balljoint in there.... Or an aftermarket "alignment kit" that makes one of them adjustable. I remember seeing an article on it recently though I can't remember where (maybe HOTROD)? Anyway, I'd check with a decent alignment shop to see if they carry the parts in stock. It's probably not worth worrying about yet as long as you confirm the alignment shop can handle it later on.

Or... At least buy the parts yourself now to see what's involved and maybe throw them in there so you can paint them easily or whatever

-G
 
No camber adjustment? :screwy:

How will you ever get it set right?

No camber adjustment on these, but I figured it out. It's an optical illusion, they are actually toed in, which makes sense, I just rebuilt the entire front end, obviously it needs an alignment. I can't freaking believe how much I am learning doing this build.....very cool. Exactly what I wanted. Hell, today I noticed the '88 (K5) had grease coming out from around the locking hub. Previously I would have been thinking, 'oh shit.' But instead I just thought, "Seal is shot, I need to pull apart the hub and rebuild it - easy."

Excellent. That is the definition of progress, when you're no longer afraid of things. :thumb:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom