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'72 K5 - Where do I go from here?

I never even heard of a double cardan joint before today. Anyway, found a great video on rebuilding them. Aside from wanting to punch the guy in the sunglasses in the face, the video is really good -
 
I think a 4" lift is about the max before you have to change things like drive line lengths, brake lines and even squeak by without a raised steering arm.

-Jacob
 
Your front shaft should probably be lengthened from what I'm seeing in the pic of it extended and bolted up. Fronts are susceptible to pulling apart because the diff is offset. When the passenger tire droops fully the shaft will pull apart. There might just be 4" of slip available...

It will certainly not be quite that bad when the truck is fully assembled, as the weight of everything will compress the suspension some. Ideally when it's all together you can run the truck up an RTI ramp with the passenger tire and measure the distance from diff yoke to T-case yoke. Then drive up the ramp with the drivers tire and measure again. Then have your front shaft built the correct length so it doesn't pull apart, or bottom out and break your T-case adaptor.
 
Rusty, great stuff. Thank you.

Got all the U-joints, slip yokes, double cardan stuff done and shafts in today. Went through two 'extra' u-joints before I figured out to hold them centered while banging in the second cap, but all good learnin.

Opened up the brake line box - not one piece of paper. Not like......a diagram or anything, just a bunch of brake lines. Gonna take me a year to figure out where all of them go/how they connect. Start that next weekend.

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Rusty, great stuff. Thank you.

Got all the U-joints, slip yokes, double cardan stuff done and shafts in today. Went through two 'extra' u-joints before I figured out to hold them centered while banging in the second cap, but all good learnin.

Opened up the brake line box - not one piece of paper. Not like......a diagram or anything, just a bunch of brake lines. Gonna take me a year to figure out where all of them go/how they connect. Start that next weekend.

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It's all looking really clean. How happy are you now that you pulled the body off to do this part of the reburbishment? :D

-G
 
Thank you Greg. I am so happy that I was laying under my '88 K5 last night evaluating the transfer case tailshaft rear seal (NP208) drip and found myself thinking, "You know, since you're gonna fix this up for your daughter to drive, it might be worth it to just pull the body." Smartest decision made, and I really appreciate the encouragement. Hell, if I had an extra $15K laying around the body would be at a (really good/specializes in 'hot rods' and such) local body shop getting media blasted, fixed, and painted the right way. Would make total sense, pull it, send it off to get dialed in while you do the rest, and then just drop on fresh body. But, I don't have $$$tons sitting around - So, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
BT
Brake lines - I've logged 3-4 hours of my life to determine that the "Pre-Bent Kit" I bought (which, ironically the website description for says, "labeled for easy installation".....uhm......not so much) is the wrong one. So I spent another 30 minutes searching for another place (gonna return the other "kit")......nothing. Any words of wisdom? I'm thinking of just buy a flaring tool, a bender, and bunch of brake line, and go.....but, it would be so convenient to get a labeled set WITH a diagram. Anyone know where such an animal might exist?
 
Inline Tube in Michigan makes some awesome stuff. All CNC bent, copied from OE pieces. I used them to replace every brake and fuel line on my 90 K5 and couldn't find fault with any of it. I did wait til they showed up, then stripped out the old lines and took some notes and pictures...

I opted for stainless lines, wasn't much more dough, but will outlive me. I would not want to bend and flare all those by hand, especially in SS.
 
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