What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

73 K20....crossmember time

Overview Gallery Discussion
Found some photos of the flex lines that bmxbryant used, looks like WFO parts.

IMG_0025.jpg


IMG_0043.jpg


I just ordered a T fitting, adapters and stainless line to extend from the pumpkin up to the frame on my rig.
 
Interesting, thanks for the pics! I have the drop down T line already so maybe I'll just measure the distance needed and get the lines from wfo. There pretty reasonable!

As for the body lift I have material to make 1 inch pucks. Looks like I'd need 6 or 8. is there any advantage of doing 1.5 inches? my body mount look very new so those are good to go.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Interesting, thanks for the pics! I have the drop down T line already so maybe I'll just measure the distance needed and get the lines from wfo. There pretty reasonable!

As for the body lift I have material to make 1 inch pucks. Looks like I'd need 6 or 8. is there any advantage of doing 1.5 inches? my body mount look very new so those are good to go.
Click to expand...

Just don't forget those lines are -3 so you'll need the adapters between the line and the calipers and between the line and the T.

I can't really think of any big issues, it's more or less adjusting the fan shroud, fuel filler, trans linkage a little more for the extra 1/2". Then of course you'll need the longer hardware for the mounts.
 
I hate to see a clean body cut up....


But since you did it already, at least clean up those cuts....


I mean come on, body saws are like $20 at harbor freight.... Make that front trim job tie into the fender line better than just a diagonal straight cut......
 
Yeah i read that on there site thanks!

Sounds like 1 inch is the thing to run?

Rather than messing with the fan shroud i think id just find a cheap set of fans with summit wiring.

Can one use the stock hardware for 1 inch pucks?
 
Deuling said:
I hate to see a clean body cut up....


But since you did it already, at least clean up those cuts....


I mean come on, body saws are like $20 at harbor freight.... Make that front trim job tie into the fender line better than just a diagonal straight cut......
Click to expand...


Meh it wasnt that clean lol. The cuts a purely rough for now because i havent finalized the shape. Im trying to roll the front part in better but its not going to be too swoopy. Its a square body after all.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Can one use the stock hardware for 1 inch pucks?
Click to expand...

The cups and washers and such aren't size-specific. The bolts are of varying lengths, so you need ones that are e.g. 1" longer than what you have. It's a PITA, but I'd pull what you have to inventory it, rust coat the washers and whatnot, and then go do a run for new bolts once you have them all out.

Also, replace the dang body mounts with poly even if your rubber ones are okay. You'll be happy that you did in the long term and likely gain that 1/2" just by doing so.

-- A
 
dremu said:
The cups and washers and such aren't size-specific. The bolts are of varying lengths, so you need ones that are e.g. 1" longer than what you have. It's a PITA, but I'd pull what you have to inventory it, rust coat the washers and whatnot, and then go do a run for new bolts once you have them all out.

Also, replace the dang body mounts with poly even if your rubber ones are okay. You'll be happy that you did in the long term and likely gain that 1/2" just by doing so.

-- A
Click to expand...


Ok sounds good. Some grade 8's should do wonderful. Ill look into that for sure!
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Ok sounds good. Some grade 8's should do wonderful. Ill look into that for sure!
Click to expand...

I'm working from memory, which in my case is suspect, but some of the bolts are carriage bolts. I think it's the ones in the bed, which makes them infinitely easier to tighten from below (assuming the squares in the bed aren't rounded out.) Anyway, point being you'll be lucky to find even grade 5 carriage bolts.

This was why I just ordered the kit from ORD, came with most everything I needed except instructions. I mostly managed to muddle through it by comparing the old with the new.

-- A
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Meh it wasnt that clean lol. The cuts a purely rough for now because i havent finalized the shape. Im trying to roll the front part in better but its not going to be too swoopy. Its a square body after all.
Click to expand...

Lol, come up here for a day. You will get a new appreciation for "whats clean" and what isnt.... :whistle:
 
dremu said:
I'm working from memory, which in my case is suspect, but some of the bolts are carriage bolts. I think it's the ones in the bed, which makes them infinitely easier to tighten from below (assuming the squares in the bed aren't rounded out.) Anyway, point being you'll be lucky to find even grade 5 carriage bolts.

This was why I just ordered the kit from ORD, came with most everything I needed except instructions. I mostly managed to muddle through it by comparing the old with the new.

-- A
Click to expand...


Yeah that sounds right! ill look into the Ord kit.
 
dremu said:
I'm working from memory, which in my case is suspect, but some of the bolts are carriage bolts. I think it's the ones in the bed, which makes them infinitely easier to tighten from below (assuming the squares in the bed aren't rounded out.) Anyway, point being you'll be lucky to find even grade 5 carriage bolts.

This was why I just ordered the kit from ORD, came with most everything I needed except instructions. I mostly managed to muddle through it by comparing the old with the new.

-- A
Click to expand...

Definitely easier going through ORD for the pucks & hardware.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Yeah that sounds right! ill look into the Ord kit.
Click to expand...

Note their product is good, but the instructions are only useful if you know how it works from the gitgo, so you don't actually need to read them :doah:

I ended up removing all the bolts/hardware from one side and labelling them as to position from front to rear, then matching up the new stuff from there.

I might have pix from when I did mine, and if you need a hand, shoot me a PM and I can swing out and help.

-- A
 
Hey thanks dremu! ill let you know if I get to that point. im thinking ill wait until after the rubicon trip to do it. I have too many $100 parts to buy lol.

I did a bit of trimming tonight and it looks better. I still need to take a stone to it but it looks better than last night. Trimming the fenders will definitely be going under my worst mod entry. I'm hating every minute of it lol.

I got my calipers and brake pads tonight. I need to get working on setting up to do the rear end this weekend I think ill be taking off friday and monday to get stuff done.

Id be happy if I could be done with trimming and the axle swap by this weekend. That would leave me with some shock work to do for the rear and the front, weld on the sliders and come up with some kind of front and rear bumper. Im thinking the bumpers will be simple box tube so I have some tow points.
 
Normally I would recommend the LMC rubber body mount kit over poly body mounts, but rust probably isn't an issue for you.....

Martin
 
No, the LMC kit comes with all new hardware. The poly kits require you to reuse your old hardware. Around here, the washers and such are all rusted away.

Martin
 
Ah i see! I think the body lift is on hold. I have too many cans of worms to open at the moment.

Im hoping to get the 14 bolt ff, shackle flip, and 56's in during my 4 day weekend!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom