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73 K20....crossmember time

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wetoolowdingbangow said:
I guess its just a few bolts and it comes down?

Im not sure what to do about the sender with the hard lines on it though. Dont want to break anything.
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When I pulled mine to swap to the TBI sending unit I was able to reach between the floor and the top of tank to disconnect everything. This was with the tank straps unbolted, sitting on a jack and slightly lowered. It is hard to do. You are sitting basically upright under the truck. I'm a small guy so it wasn't too tight. There are the hose clamps that use pliers to remove. Not the hose clamps that tighten with a flat head/nut driver. Hopefully they are positioned on the hose so you can remove them like that.

Other then the lines. Don't forget the ground wire that goes to a bolt on the drivers frame rail (1/2 socket I do believe). And the wire going to the sending unit. It just pops off the sending unit.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Oh yeah thats a pretty good way of doing that! luckily my tank is near empty so i wont have to fight too much slosh force. I guess its just a few bolts and it comes down?

Im not sure what to do about the sender with the hard lines on it though. Dont want to break anything.
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once you pull the skid plate off you'll see the two straps that hold it.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Oh yeah thats a pretty good way of doing that! luckily my tank is near empty so i wont have to fight too much slosh force. I guess its just a few bolts and it comes down?

Im not sure what to do about the sender with the hard lines on it though. Dont want to break anything.
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Sender has about a foot and a half of hose to the hardlines. This is where you wish you had that 1" body lift we all harp on. It's so much easier to reach in and undo the hose clamps with the lift.

As mentioned, the gas tank straps have a 3/8" stud on each end. You and your knuckles will become intimate with your 9/16" ratcheting wrench.

And yeah, watch the wiring. Been there, done that, swore up a storm about it. :doah:

Now's a good time to clean up the skid plate and the straps, maybe even put in some new "anti squeak strips" (aka tar paper from the homo despot). "Might As Well..." :haha:

-- A
 
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I've ordered multiple sets of zero rates from DIY4X, and every time they have come with hardware. I think you just received a mispackaged set.

Martin
 
skunked said:
just pull the bed off!
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oh wait...... :haha:
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Yeah i know. Its my biggest complaint with the jimmy. I can take my top off though lol!

82355 said:
I've ordered multiple sets of zero rates from DIY4X, and every time they have come with hardware. I think you just received a mispackaged set.

Martin
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Thanks for letting me know. Ill call them today to see what happened.

As far as dropping the tank my laziness kicked in. I undid the tanks straps and found that the aftermarket hitch prevented me from fully dropping the tank so i lowered it at an angle enough to get a wrench in for the shackle flip bolts. The shackle flip i got was used and 1/2 inch hardware fit so i rolled with that.

I got all the bastard rivets out of the frame for the shackle flip. I hate those damn things. I did pick up an air chisel which made it easier to get the head off once the rivets center was drilled out.

When i put the shackle flip on it of course ran into the tow hitch and i couldn't notch the shackle flip bracket so i had to cut the hitch. The hitch wont ever be used for towing since i have a different truck for that but it makes a nice tow point if i get stuck. It also hangs down too low so it will get eliminated at some point. Ill reuse the metal to make a bumper with an incorporated hitch.

shackle flip hitting hitch.



fixed.



The sight of nothingness. Ready for new parts to go in! Im hoping to be able to get the leaf springs on tonight. It should only take a few mins to bolt those up.



Im a little shy on money so the Diy4x HD shackles have to wait till the end of the month. Although this Friday im going to make the push to get all the parts i need for the Rubicon trip ordered. That includes hydro assist, maybe shackles, possibly rear shocks and heavy duty front tie rod.
 
do you know for sure those rear shackle hangers are in the right location?

for the rivets I found that cutting an "X" into each rivet head and then hitting them with an air chisel was most effective. Couple I had to drill out simply because I couldn't get a grinder in there.

For a HD tie rod I went with the ruffstuff HD rod with the offset TRE's. I'm not sure if the offset was/is needed but I didn't want any clearance issues with the beef diff cover.

Do you happen to know what thread size is on the rear brake hardline that runs up by the tank? I ordered a 3/8"x24 adapter from WFO but it's too small. I'm wondering if they gave me the wrong one.
 
skunked said:
do you know for sure those rear shackle hangers are in the right location?

for the rivets I found that cutting an "X" into each rivet head and then hitting them with an air chisel was most effective. Couple I had to drill out simply because I couldn't get a grinder in there.

For a HD tie rod I went with the ruffstuff HD rod with the offset TRE's. I'm not sure if the offset was/is needed but I didn't want any clearance issues with the beef diff cover.

Do you happen to know what thread size is on the rear brake hardline that runs up by the tank? I ordered a 3/8"x24 adapter from WFO but it's too small. I'm wondering if they gave me the wrong one.
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Yeah they bolt up to the stock position and there flipped so that they face more towards the rear to accept the 56 inch leafs.

Yeah on a few rivets i did the whole tic tac toe thing but the grinder was hard to get in there. By switching from a a smaller drill to larger it really blows the material out.

Ill have to look at there HD tie rod. I think ORDs HD tie rod is 3/8s thick and 1.5 in diameter. Its $115 and then you need the rod ends which runs you about $50, so it ends up being a little more.

Yeah its actually 7/16-24 because its 1/4 inch line. The 3/16 line uses 3/8s fittings.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Yeah they bolt up to the stock position and there flipped so that they face more towards the rear to accept the 56 inch leafs.
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Right on, just didn't want you to button it all up and then find out they need to move :D


wetoolowdingbangow said:
Yeah on a few rivets i did the whole tic tac toe thing but the grinder was hard to get in there. By switching from a a smaller drill to larger it really blows the material out.
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It's a bitch....

wetoolowdingbangow said:
Ill have to look at there HD tie rod. I think ORDs HD tie rod is 3/8s thick and 1.5 in diameter. Its $115 and then you need the rod ends which runs you about $50, so it ends up being a little more.
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This is the kit I have, just need to cut and weld the bungs.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFFK.html

wetoolowdingbangow said:
Yeah its actually 7/16-24 because its 1/4 inch line. The 3/16 line uses 3/8s fittings.
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ah.....:doah:
 
Thanks! Yeah everything should bolt up now! Just need to get the 3/4" bolts for the leafs...bought 1/2 inch stuff on accident lol :doah:

I cant wait till all the rivets are gone on this frame, they wont be missed.

Interesting ill have to check clearances when i get the ram in.

I got a free craftsman arc welder this weekend and eventually ill get the band saw too. The arc welder will do great for the perches on the axle.

Next week ill be picking something up to make life a little less stressful with this thing... pics to come.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Just need to get the 3/4" bolts for the leafs
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If you're talking about the spring bushings, eyes, whatever you call them, IIRC those are 9/16".

wetoolowdingbangow said:
Next week ill be picking something up to make life a little less stressful with this thing... pics to come.
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Oooh, mystery. Engine hoist to remove the top? Big block? Or a tow rig and trailer? :haha:


-- A
 
dremu said:
If you're talking about the spring bushings, eyes, whatever you call them, IIRC those are 9/16".



Oooh, mystery. Engine hoist to remove the top? Big block? Or a tow rig and trailer? :haha:


-- A
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Oh ok maybe that's what they are!

Yeah mystery meat! I got the tow rig already but im missing something!
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Hey thanks!

Yeah they are 9/16 for sure. Home depot told me that size doesnt exist lol so i went to this place called bowlin supply and they have everything. I got a handful of them in the grade 8 flavor.
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Ace Hardware is better for than HD or Lowes for hardware.
 
Well the passenger side shackle flip wanted to fight last night but i got it on there. Im ready to bolt the tank in now and finish bolting in the leaf springs. Once the leaf springs are on i will get the axle bolted up, get the weight transferred to the axle and adjust the pinion angle. Then ill tac it and finish the welds.

After thats complete i can bolt it all in and put the hubs/ brake stuff on.

This also happened:



I go to pick it up next week. Its 8.5 feet wide so i wont need to drive over fenders and its new!
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Well the passenger side shackle flip wanted to fight last night but i got it on there. Im ready to bolt the tank in now and finish bolting in the leaf springs. Once the leaf springs are on i will get the axle bolted up, get the weight transferred to the axle and adjust the pinion angle. Then ill tac it and finish the welds.

After thats complete i can bolt it all in and put the hubs/ brake stuff on.

This also happened:



I go to pick it up next week. Its 8.5 feet wide so i wont need to drive over fenders and its new!
Click to expand...

what axles and brakes are under it? Looks like you need to add some D-rings
 
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