CK5
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73 K20....crossmember time
- Thread starter wetoolowdingbangow
- Start date
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Wow. Did that take a long time?
Haha yes! Now i lack sleep!
Trying to figure out my next project on the truck. I think ill install the 56s and start prepping the front end for boxing it in.
So question, how much of a cage? Tied into where?
The reason I ask is this. You have to think of the frame as 2 seperate systems. Left rail and right rail. Most of the twist comes from lack of stiffness between the rails. Boxing helps an individual rail but does little to help improve the whole system.
Boxing combined with extra cross members, whether those are under the body or in the form of a cage, will stiffen the chassis a substantial amount.
But only if the cage is hard mounted.
This is the reason I tell guys to tie in all 3 legs of the c channel when adding crossmembers.
Just something to mull over
The reason I ask is this. You have to think of the frame as 2 seperate systems. Left rail and right rail. Most of the twist comes from lack of stiffness between the rails. Boxing helps an individual rail but does little to help improve the whole system.
Boxing combined with extra cross members, whether those are under the body or in the form of a cage, will stiffen the chassis a substantial amount.
But only if the cage is hard mounted.
This is the reason I tell guys to tie in all 3 legs of the c channel when adding crossmembers.
Just something to mull over
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I think im going to do the DIY4x cage for the inside, which will eventually be tied to the frame...maybe next winter when i boatside.
The boxing will include the front portion of the frame. Ill make an X crossmember for the front and more then likely have the ORD engine crossmember going on too. Havent though of the very front too much because i dont have a winch but something need to tie that together as well....
Im having difficulty seeing where drivetrain will reside so the rest i feel like i need to deal with after i have that in.
Even just an extra crossmember in front and all the way in back make a big difference.
I think I have a very different take on this than most.
I have seen frame mounted sliders help enough to convince someone not to box the frame. But I have also seen fully boxed with frame mounted cages and frame mounted sliders and that frame did not deflect at all. At all.
And there are certainly areas in the spring that need boxing like the front upper shackle hangers. Boxing caging etc will yeild a stiff frame and that's a good thing
I think I have a very different take on this than most.
I have seen frame mounted sliders help enough to convince someone not to box the frame. But I have also seen fully boxed with frame mounted cages and frame mounted sliders and that frame did not deflect at all. At all.
And there are certainly areas in the spring that need boxing like the front upper shackle hangers. Boxing caging etc will yeild a stiff frame and that's a good thing
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah the goal is to have no deflection at some point. I kinda have to piece it together but itll be ok. Its imperative i wheel this thing this season so i dont get burnt out on building all the time. I think an epic amount of strength can be achieved from the boatsiding.
I think my front end will be dialed as far as deflection goes once i get some good crossmember action going. I know what i want to do at the end of the frame but i just havent committed to the mid section behind the cab. I was thinking if i could get the 30 something gallon tbi tank under a flatbed behind the cab that would be tits. That gives me ample space for the bobbed flat bed, my gas tank isnt a bump stop or departure of rocks and i get a good amount of fuel. That might mean i need to shit can the crossmember behind the cab i just welded in. This goes back to not being able to picture where the drivetrain/driveline will be so i need to get that in first...
just make a few X members where they fit for now, and worry about the rest later. Plating the whole thing isn't as necessary as some make it out to be.. you would be surprised if you just welded all the stock cross-members to the existing frame, that is a noticeable change in stiffness.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah thats the plan! Good ol box tube crossmembers.
I finally nutted up and bought 5.38s for the 14 bolt. I need an install kit, probably snag that tomorrow. Debating on doing the crush sleeve eliminator?
I need to hunt around for a Detroit. Someone probably has a cheap used one out there...
I finally nutted up and bought 5.38s for the 14 bolt. I need an install kit, probably snag that tomorrow. Debating on doing the crush sleeve eliminator?
I need to hunt around for a Detroit. Someone probably has a cheap used one out there...
Crush sleeve eliminator makes the 14 bolt setup stupid easy.
I usually precrush the crush sleeve on my press.
You wanna have a sick to your stomach feeling. I have stripped a couple pinion nuts trying to start a crush sleeve crushing. You think you stripped the pinion of all its threads. That is a not awesome feeling
I usually precrush the crush sleeve on my press.
You wanna have a sick to your stomach feeling. I have stripped a couple pinion nuts trying to start a crush sleeve crushing. You think you stripped the pinion of all its threads. That is a not awesome feeling
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Crush sleeve it is! It's like 45 bucks so why not.
Oh man that would suck!
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Do these look like 52s? I think that's what they are. I'm running them whatever they are lol.
Going to try to put the engine mount to frame thingies in tonight. Need to weld some nuts on because they're stupid painful to get in and out.
Going to try to put the engine mount to frame thingies in tonight. Need to weld some nuts on because they're stupid painful to get in and out.
Kinda look like 56s not used to seeing them without the overload and the rest of the pack??.The wear pads is why I say that.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah they look long. There roughly 50 inches. The perch mark was on there pretty good so whoever had them ran them that way. The guy I got them from said they were 52s...who knows! Maybe there fords?
Dunno! I know I've seen the wear pads on Chevy and ford springs like that.. I've had a few sets of 52s some are different.
Measure along the arch from ear to ear and to the spring pin. 56's are offset by 4" vs 52" are symmetrical. If they're other brand, who knows, but you should at least know if they're the same front to back (otherwise if you put one in backwards your axle will be way crooked 
)
-- A
)-- A
Not all 56's, I have a centered set
BTW the tank fits nicely behind the cab
If photo bucket wasn't having issues I would post a pic of it.
That's where I put my tank initially
If photo bucket wasn't having issues I would post a pic of it.
That's where I put my tank initially
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Measure along the arch from ear to ear and to the spring pin. 56's are offset by 4" vs 52" are symmetrical. If they're other brand, who knows, but you should at least know if they're the same front to back (otherwise if you put one in backwards your axle will be way crooked
-- A
Yeah im about to go measure them again! I know there definitely not 56s. I could tell by the weight right away.
I think thats where I got the idea! I just wonder about driveshaft clearance.
Ha found em
