CK5
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73 K20....crossmember time
- Thread starter wetoolowdingbangow
- Start date
@F.S.F.W
1.) I'd hate to miss out on a chance to make fun of the derailments that characterize this thread.
2.) I'd hate to miss a chance to push math on all the math-haters out there. Like @GWeakland620. C'mon, man! Math is where it's at! You don't even understand life if you won't let yourself like math!
3.) I hate typing that username. So much that I'm renaming you. You shall be called @FSFW. Or something like that.
1.) I'd hate to miss out on a chance to make fun of the derailments that characterize this thread.
2.) I'd hate to miss a chance to push math on all the math-haters out there. Like @GWeakland620. C'mon, man! Math is where it's at! You don't even understand life if you won't let yourself like math!
3.) I hate typing that username. So much that I'm renaming you. You shall be called @FSFW. Or something like that.
I second that notion!
lol if you just copy my username then you can paste it every time you need to type it!@F.S.F.W
1.) I'd hate to miss out on a chance to make fun of the derailments that characterize this thread.
2.) I'd hate to miss a chance to push math on all the math-haters out there. Like @GWeakland620. C'mon, man! Math is where it's at! You don't even understand life if you won't let yourself like math!
3.) I hate typing that username. So much that I'm renaming you. You shall be called @FSFW. Or something like that.
I'm not going to leave it perpetually on the clipboard. I'm not THAT creepy of a stalker...
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Not sure if I mentioned it yet but after reading the directions on getting the hydroboost all pumped up with fluid, I've decided to keep both the brakes and steering off the pulley system until the engine is broken in. The hydroboost unit calls for turning the engine over several times and I just don't want to be juggling that at that moment.
So once it's broken in I'll fill the fluids for brakes and steering.
That would mean after I'm done bolting the hydroboost stuff up I'll have to jump on fueling, wiring, cooling and so on.
So once it's broken in I'll fill the fluids for brakes and steering.
That would mean after I'm done bolting the hydroboost stuff up I'll have to jump on fueling, wiring, cooling and so on.
I just read through this whole thread again. I even took the detour to the Fordyce thread.
Really great job, and great recovery from that disappointing trip. You just doubled down and went after it.
It also makes me want to do a 1" body lift, clock the case, and move up to 37's. *sigh*
And yes, @bent72, I'm working.
Really great job, and great recovery from that disappointing trip. You just doubled down and went after it.
It also makes me want to do a 1" body lift, clock the case, and move up to 37's. *sigh*
And yes, @bent72, I'm working.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
So...you're joining the D60 club?
You can't join the 60 club, you can only go to club 74.
So...you're joining the D60 club?
No, I'm sticking with the 8 lug 10 bolt front. That is one for sure that I will wait and see if I bust it or not.
This is stepping outside my area of expertise, but I've heard a lot of griping from folks running huge tires on 1/2-ton axles. The ball joints, stub shafts, lockouts, brakes (etc.) just weren't intended for 59" swampers. Not sure how far into headache territory 37s are (folks have run them on 1/2-ton fronts), but I'll be watching to see how well that front axle holds up.
This is stepping outside my area of expertise, but I've heard a lot of griping from folks running huge tires on 1/2-ton axles. The ball joints, stub shafts, lockouts, brakes (etc.) just weren't intended for 59" swampers. Not sure how far into headache territory 37s are (folks have run them on 1/2-ton fronts), but I'll be watching to see how well that front axle holds up.
Well, it will be 35's for awhile. But yeah, I'll be watching too. lol.
I beat the D44 that started in the K5 like a red headed step child off his Ritalin.This is stepping outside my area of expertise, but I've heard a lot of griping from folks running huge tires on 1/2-ton axles. The ball joints, stub shafts, lockouts, brakes (etc.) just weren't intended for 59" swampers. Not sure how far into headache territory 37s are (folks have run them on 1/2-ton fronts), but I'll be watching to see how well that front axle holds up.
2 weekends a month we wheeled at that point, most of them 4+ trails.
I would replace the ball joints and ujoints once a year. The ball joints were lifetime replacement, so free other than labor.
Unless you have your foot in it all the time and are bouncing it off of stuff, i wouldn't get too freaked
This
whats big?
This is all hearsay, but I've been told several times that anything over 35" is asking for failed ujoints and snapped axle shafts (particularly when locked). I know some folks do run 37s without issue, but I haven't yet heard of someone running any larger than that unless he was complaining about how things broke. Like I said, this is not my area of expertise, I'm probing the issue because I'm curious where the limits are. Personally, I'm a gentle driver with a low-power 6.2, I'm not worried about breaking axles even if I did run larger tires. But rumors abound, and I don't have enough experience to know where to draw the line...
They will break. Like using a bolt in the wrong application. You can break a D60 with a marshmallow motor if you drive like a renob.Then why are people so afraid of running big tires on light-duty axles?
But how you drive and where you put it is as critical in the failures as power and gearing. Shock loading and under cuts are brutal
