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73 K20....crossmember time

Overview Gallery Discussion
What's the word on 205 mounts? Inline is better? Side cover mount too?

I tried to find some pics on here of other members but they're just too buried to get to.
 
There was some good conversation about this a while back and the common consensus was to keep them in line. I have one offset on my truck (DIY4X kit) but my frame isn't flexing like a stock c-channel after I boxed it.

Check out the TMR mount that bolts to the 205 rear output.
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/transfer-case-support-kit-np205
 
skunked said:
There was some good conversation about this a while back and the common consensus was to keep them in line. I have one offset on my truck (DIY4X kit) but my frame isn't flexing like a stock c-channel after I boxed it.

Check out the TMR mount that bolts to the 205 rear output.
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/transfer-case-support-kit-np205
Click to expand...

Ok cool. I actually saw one on Instagram that included both sides and cant find it again of course. I think inline should be ok. I worry about doing an additional mount and then trying to load it and creating more stress then I should have.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Ok cool. I actually saw one on Instagram that included both sides and cant find it again of course. I think inline should be ok. I worry about doing an additional mount and then trying to load it and creating more stress then I should have.
Click to expand...

@MTBLAZER89 has a mount like you're referring too and I'm pretty sure he posted it on IG.
 
Make a triangle with your mounts. The two motor mounts are the base of the triangle and the rear yoke can be considered the third point. Then imitate the stock style mounting on a crossmember.
 
skunked said:
@MTBLAZER89 has a mount like you're referring too and I'm pretty sure he posted it on IG.
Click to expand...

Ok cool I'm gonna look for that.

obijuank5 said:
Make a triangle with your mounts. The two motor mounts are the base of the triangle and the rear yoke can be considered the third point. Then imitate the stock style mounting on a crossmember.
Click to expand...

True. Never thought of it that way but it makes sense now.
 
Alot of local guys tried to complicate it and had the transfer cases on their own cradle and all kinds of variations of that. They would always break the end of the transmission off because the motor moved at a different rate than their stiff ass bushings they used that were too far apart. Over and over they broke trans cases.
Dont over complicate it.
 
obijuank5 said:
Alot of local guys tried to complicate it and had the transfer cases on their own cradle and all kinds of variations of that. They would always break the end of the transmission off because the motor moved at a different rate than their stiff ass bushings they used that were too far apart. Over and over they broke trans cases.
Dont over complicate it.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's not good. So far I've got poly mounts at the motor, trans and then eventually the back of the 205. Maybe simple is in fact better
 
obijuank5 said:
Alot of local guys tried to complicate it and had the transfer cases on their own cradle and all kinds of variations of that. They would always break the end of the transmission off because the motor moved at a different rate than their stiff ass bushings they used that were too far apart. Over and over they broke trans cases.
Dont over complicate it.
Click to expand...

the frame twist (or lack of) is a big factor in this.
 
I think I'll get the tmr kit. Should do the trick.

The next thing I need to think about is building a crossmember/skid plate for this thing. I'm thinking just plain old .188 wall square tube and then some plate at some point.

Obviously it needs to be able to come out so I'd like to make it durable but not too insanely heavy.

Time for my ass to get some hours on the mig.
 
how are you clocking the 205? As you may remember, I went flat with a 1" body lift and I was able to run the 2"/.188 square tube flat against the bottom of the frame rails.
 
skunked said:
how are you clocking the 205? As you may remember, I went flat with a 1" body lift and I was able to run the 2"/.188 square tube flat against the bottom of the frame rails.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I'm looking for. 1 inch body lift in place already. Did you cut the floor?

Do you have some pics of the crossmember and all that? They are gone from your build.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
That's exactly what I'm looking for. 1 inch body lift in place already. Did you cut the floor?

Do you have some pics of the crossmember and all that? They are gone from your build.
Click to expand...

Floor cutting was not required, 2wd cab btw. I had to massage one area above the front corner of the 205 with a BFH, needed maybe 3/8" clearance since it was barely touching there.

I'll find some pics for ya.
 
I started with 2" angle to run along each frame rail

IMG_2323.JPG

You can see where the trans mount bolted on the crossmember. The front piece of angle was just used to keep it square during welding FYI

IMG_2305.JPG
 
Top view that shows more of the square tube design and the rear 205 crossmember. I should also note that I built the 205 mount on a separate crossmember so I can swing the belly skid off it and drop the big crossmember for service while the drivetrain is still supported.

IMG_2557.JPG

IMG_3057.JPG

IMG_3058.JPG
 
stephen from ord told me on my doubler kit run the stock crossmember or custom on the rear set of mounts were the 205 is . and if you wish to pickup the front half on the doubler plate tie it in to the crossmember do NOT run 2 of them as he has found frame flex with 2 seperate crossmembers like 2 stock units will break it .

and i have polly / polly for my mounts . energy suspension clamb shell replacments for engine and 84-older style t-case u-shaped units .
 
Ok tight that looks like a good setup there. I'll do something Similar. I dont think I need to have a mount to support the front of the black box? It's a bit shorter then the eco from what I can tell.

Got the other output built. Just need to put it in the housing and get that roller bearing mess dealt with. Also need to get some hardware for this pile. Once I slap that together I'll mask it off and hit it with primer then orange of course.

I need to order the flanges for the outputs as well.

20181227_141531.jpg

20181227_141527.jpg
 
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