kinda Ram Charger-ish. 
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
'74 K5 build: Smurf
- Thread starter dremu
- Start date
Thanks, though you best not be sneering at my door locks!I mean, it's not like I have keys to the locks, but it's not like I'll need them either
Anyway, I like to think that if we can't have fun, it ain't worth doing!
-- A
I agree completely. I wasn't trying to insult you, this stuff really is entertaining to me. I also enjoyed your engine stand/door holder.
Martin
No insult taken -- guess I didn't use enough smileys. It's a bit silly to put that much effort into the door locks, but given that the truck has no top at the moment I refuse to spend money on locks and keys =))
And yeah, I was pleased with the door holder -- I figure lots of us have an engine stand or have a buddy who does, and I tell ya, hanging a door solo is slick.
Thinking of the door hinges, I also went through and replaced the bushings and pins with the Dorman kits. Makes a surprising difference; those doors turn nice and smooth now!
kinda Ram Charger-ish.
Good eye! I keep thinking the same thing; the old full-vert Ramchargers (and the Plymouth Trailduster, the other badge version) are the only truck of that era to have full doors. The bobtail Broncos and full-vert Blazers and all the Scouts were all glass-only above the beltline, if memory serves.
-- A
Last edited:
Do you not have a topper for it?
That's correct; for some years it's been topless and living under one of those portable awning car cover things. This, however, sucks, so note that I keep muttering about my Top Secret Plan for the truck.
-- A
Last edited:
Plymouth trailduster, I believe is the " other" model.
Got any more plans for the cage?
Got any more plans for the cage?
That was it! Prospector was a pickup or a trimline for them, aifink. Edited original comment.
I think the cagework is mostly done, as much as these trucks ever are. Might do some stuff to the interior, either in the bed or up front. I have a factory center console I could remount, or I like those Tuffy steel ones... it never ends!
-- A
May I recommend some sort of crossbracing in the roof of the cage.
I have seen cages without the roof bracing fold over more than a foot in a hard roll. I have even seen them fold over 6" in a very mild roll.
Now mind you those are both full roll overs not just pop it on its side.
It would also help to stiffen up the B pillar if you added a brace from the seat belt bar going up on the b pillar.
I have seen cages without the roof bracing fold over more than a foot in a hard roll. I have even seen them fold over 6" in a very mild roll.
Now mind you those are both full roll overs not just pop it on its side.
It would also help to stiffen up the B pillar if you added a brace from the seat belt bar going up on the b pillar.
For the roof, I presume you're talking about something like
For the front, maybe just one diagonal instead of the X, as it's a smaller space?
Not clear whatcha mean on the B-pillar ... you mean in that middle vertical plane, like this?
Or maybe one diagonal or an X instead of the V, but to the bottom bar...?
I keep tossing these ideas around. There comes a point where it's overkill and you're just building a jungle gym, and I'm leery of the truck turning into a fullon buggy before I get her 'wheeling again
... but you have valid points. Might just be a middle ground somewhere.I've also considered doing some reinforcement to the B pillars along the side:
Though you were talking about the horizontal plane of the roof ... ach, it's geometry class all over again...
-- A
Last edited:
On the B pillar thats exactly what I mean
You don't have to come all the way to the middle either. I couldn't with mine cause I would have hit my head, I also used smaller tubing so get it further out of the way
Pic of mine
As far as roof bracing goes anything would help. Any crossbar you do will help a ton as long as it creates a triangle, you can put as many square and rectangles in there as you want but unless you create a couple of triangles its going to be weaker.
You don't have to come all the way to the middle either. I couldn't with mine cause I would have hit my head, I also used smaller tubing so get it further out of the way
Pic of mine
As far as roof bracing goes anything would help. Any crossbar you do will help a ton as long as it creates a triangle, you can put as many square and rectangles in there as you want but unless you create a couple of triangles its going to be weaker.
The third pic you posted I would not do just cause I don't like the looks of it. I would do a straight bar from the c pillar to the b pillar and then use short tube gussets.
The only reason to do the lower bar from the c pillar to the b pillar is somewhere to add a lower gusset
The only reason to do the lower bar from the c pillar to the b pillar is somewhere to add a lower gusset
Like this ( ignoring the red lines)
Hmm. You make very good points, some of which I had not considered. Dammit, but thank you!
Carnac The Magnificent foresees more welding in my future, which is good ... though it really means pulling the cage again, which is annoying. At least I could then quickie-sand and repaint the thing in a gloss or semi-gloss 'cuz the flat did NOT work well.
Another question: As I look at this pic you posted:
I wonder if the smaller pieces behind the seats provide more strength in this orientation, or would it matter if they were switched around to be more like gussets, with the lower end at the outside of the cage and the upper end at the center? Such an orientation would work better in my instance for various reasons, but as I look at it, I suspect that this provides more crush resistance at the corner.
BTW, does Horton hear a Who, or listen to The Who, or watch Doctor Who?
This from a guy whose truck is named after a comic book character, so take it with a bag of salt!
-- A
Carnac The Magnificent foresees more welding in my future, which is good ... though it really means pulling the cage again, which is annoying. At least I could then quickie-sand and repaint the thing in a gloss or semi-gloss 'cuz the flat did NOT work well.
Another question: As I look at this pic you posted:
I wonder if the smaller pieces behind the seats provide more strength in this orientation, or would it matter if they were switched around to be more like gussets, with the lower end at the outside of the cage and the upper end at the center? Such an orientation would work better in my instance for various reasons, but as I look at it, I suspect that this provides more crush resistance at the corner.
BTW, does Horton hear a Who, or listen to The Who, or watch Doctor Who?
This from a guy whose truck is named after a comic book character, so take it with a bag of salt!
-- A
Horton not ony hears a who, he listens to the who, and watches dr. Who. Or wait that might be me I am so confused
Its all about spreading the load out. In a side roll one of the first things to be hit is that b pillar. So how I have them braced is spreads the load to the seatbelt bar. I intend to add some more gussets underneath it too.
How I have my roof spreaders will help transfer a side load too.
Think about how the cage will be loaded and then try to maximize load transfer, while minimizing unsupported areas. You do have to be careful though any cage can end up looking like a jungle gym I actually think mine started to look like a jungle gym but I put as few bars in there as I felt I could.
My cage was intended to survive a very very hard roll a couple of times. I still haven't rolled it yet though.
I do have a couple guys who I have built cages for that have rolled them built similar to mine and they have survived just fine.
Did you notice Aaron that I am not saying anything about your TOP secret?
I can keep a secret you know.
I can keep a secret you know.
Mmm, yeah, makes sense. Thanks. More thinking and more work ahead...
Did you notice Aaron that I am not saying anything about your TOP secret?
I can keep a secret you know.
You'd better
I was gonna start on that, but it looks like I gotta make up my mind about the cage first... And while it's not rainy, which is lousy weather to work in outside, the warm time of the day is so short ... grr...-- A
mpio13
1/2 ton status
*i dont know anything about cages* but: in one picture you have crossing bars behind where the driver seats would be. would it be better to make 2 verticle bars towards the inside shoulder of each seat, leaving a gap between them to get into the back from the front if need be? or did you scrap the idea all together?
Yeah, it's a balance between the ideal for structural strength and the convenience to get around inside. After driving her a bit and after the discussion here, it looks like I have enough "little" tweaks to make that I'll pull the cage out again
At that point I'll sort out what I hope will be a workable compromise between strength and comfort -- and yeah, the ability to get around the seats into the back is on the list.-- A
Some Bad Family Stuff has kept me from working on Tankie as much as I'd like, but there is progress.
Per the discussion above, the overhead are has been triangulated with 1.5" tube. While it clears my head at any given angle, it's close, so I may adjust the seat mounting a smidge.
I also added triangulation to the middle section, which should provide protection in side rollovers:
Hopefully that's a good compromise between structural integrity and convenience, 'cuz I can still swing my fat butt through that central V. Note the use of small pipe for extra strength behind the seats.
Okay, fine, they act as holders for the shoulder harnesses, keep 'em from sliding off the seats.
Eagle-eyed viewers will now be clamoring that there's something different, up there above the rollcage ... this would be the TOP secret project previously mentioned.
-- A
Per the discussion above, the overhead are has been triangulated with 1.5" tube. While it clears my head at any given angle, it's close, so I may adjust the seat mounting a smidge.
I also added triangulation to the middle section, which should provide protection in side rollovers:
Hopefully that's a good compromise between structural integrity and convenience, 'cuz I can still swing my fat butt through that central V. Note the use of small pipe for extra strength behind the seats.
Okay, fine, they act as holders for the shoulder harnesses, keep 'em from sliding off the seats.
Eagle-eyed viewers will now be clamoring that there's something different, up there above the rollcage ... this would be the TOP secret project previously mentioned.
-- A
Last edited:
