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75 Blazer Project

Like my Daughters says "OMG" I know what you mean!!! I just need my Drive shaft done,maybe by this weekend If all go`s right... Cross your fingers for me.Ill do the same for you ;-]

They are crossed . Good luck!!!
 
They are crossed . Good luck!!!
:haha: Well the D/S is in the shop , just waiting on him to call . :crazy:
Im HOPING to get it Fri or Sat morning to have it in and test drove by Sat afternoon so I can start working out the bugs. Like the steering wheel needs adjusted after doing the draglink. :o And Im sure i need to re-bleed the brakes..:rolleyes:
Still got mine crossed for ya!! :D
 
Well update.

I have a Th350 with a cracked case but good parts inside. So i picked up this Bad TH350 with a good case and bad parts inside. How do i know debris in the Pan. So i have been stripping the Old Trans to Put the good Parts in the Good Case. Here are some Pics.

Old Trans and Parts that were pulled.
trans build 002.jpg

trans build 001.jpg


Trans that the Parts are going into
trans build 003.jpg

trans build 004.jpg

trans build 003.jpg

trans build 004.jpg

trans build 002.jpg

trans build 001.jpg
 
Small update.
Trans is completely rebuilt and waiting to be put in. Engine has been Painted and is being put back together.
engine 001.jpg
engine 002.jpg
engine 003.jpg

Will begin taking front end apart next weekend. need to prepare Blazer for engine and trans install. Will basically be cleaning up the frame and front end. As well as cleaning up the firewall area.

engine 001.jpg

engine 002.jpg

engine 003.jpg
 
Here's how my Blazer sits right now. Engine, Trans and T-Case Adapter are done and ready to be installed. Now i have to get the truck ready. My plans are to clean up the Frame, check for cracks and repair as needed. I still need to add the frame plate for behind the steering box then Paint it with Chassis Black from Eastwood to protect the Frame/Metal from the elements.
Also plan on building my own Engine Crossmember. I have some steel and a welder in my Garage so we will see what i come up with. Upon removing the front fenders i found my wheel wells rusted thru and my Fenders have some rust in the lower rear corners. So i will be patching them up and installing them after the frame clean up. I am so close to having a running roller i can taste it.:D

Arizona Sun is Killer
truck 002.jpg
Removed engine crossmember and engine mount plates
truck 003.jpg

truck 002.jpg

truck 003.jpg
 
Small update:

Frame is cleaned and painted, firewall behind engine is painted.

Had a little mishap and accidentally dropped the cap to the silicone tube down the intake and into the engine. Was trying to install the intake. So needless to say i have to pull the motor apart get the cap out and re-seal it. Lesson learned.:doah:

I am in the procees of building my engine crossmember. I will be mocking it up this weekend and tack welding it together. Pics will be up soon. Right now its in a bunch of pieces, but once i get it tacked i will take some shots.

And the work continues:D
 
Here's a couple of pics of the first mock-up.

cross 001.jpg
cross 002.jpg

After the initial tack weld on the crossmember i removed the motor mount brackets that attach to the frame from the motor and installed them on the frame. From there i found that the bolt holes are about an 1/8 of an inch off and the frame is in the way. So i have to re-adjust the brackets on the round bar a bit and notch them so the frame does not hit them, and all while my kids are taking a nap. Not too bad:D

cross 001.jpg

cross 002.jpg
 
Well motor and trans are finally installed. One problem i ran into though. I cant get the Pass side Exhaust manifold to fit. It looks as if it warped and the bolt holes are off either forward of the manifold or rearward depending on which side i bolt up first. I was thinking of drilling the holes out or making them a bit oval to get the bolts to line up. Any Idea's?
engine installed 001.jpg

engine installed 001.jpg
 
there is a special tool (manifold spreader tool) that widens the exhaust manifold for this exact problem, the tool looks like a piece of all thread with 2 nuts on it and you widen the manifold by moving the nuts. Im sure you don't want to go too far with this as the manifold will crack. When this happened to me, i just found the original manifold that was on the motor stock and swapped it and it worked. I have used the tool before on other people's projects and it works, but we used a carbide bit on the end of a diegrinder and took some material off to make it easier to line up.

hope that helps
 
Yea i got to work and one of the Mechanics here told me about this tool. So problem solved Thanks for the help:waytogo:.
 
Last week i picked up my 205 t-case, 27 spline fto fit behind my TH350. Also got an Adapter that clocks it flat. So i have the last major piece to the Puzzle.

This weekend i removed the 32 spline output in a Ford 205 i have and swap it with the 30 spline as well as swapping the Yoke. This yoke off the Ford 205 i had is huge. I happen to have a front driveshaft from a 78 Ford F-250 and the U-joint is too small to fit in the yoke. :D Need to get some Gaskets for the Front and rear of the Output Shaft and the t-case will be ready to install.
T-CASE 003.jpg
T-CASE 004.jpg
Also have been finishing up my Engine Crossmember. I have the finish welds done i just need to add to it a little.
T-CASE 001.jpg
T-CASE 002.jpg

Also went thru the wiring harness and i am glad i did. The P.O. wrapped the wires to the starter together then used electrical tape to keep them from coming apart.:crazy:

T-CASE 003.jpg

T-CASE 004.jpg

T-CASE 001.jpg

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This past weekend i finally got the last small parts to put the 205 t-case i bought back together. My plan was to install it in the truck and add all the fluids and fire up the motor. Instead i get stuck with a t-case rebuild due to me finding 2 little surprises in the bottom of the case. I was removing the Shift rails to check to see if they have been modified and when doing this you must tap out the roll pins> which drop to the bottom of the case. Well to get the rollpins out you remove the insp cover and take them out well when i removed the insp cover i found these.
t-case 001.jpg
t-case 002.jpg

2 large chunks of metal. So now instead of putting her in the truck the T-Case has to be completely Dis-assembled and inspected. The pieces look like they are part of the case but we will see. Well at least i will get to rebuild my first T-Case.:crazy:

t-case 001.jpg

t-case 002.jpg
 
Slow and steady is the name of the game.
Completely re-sealed and painted the 205.
t-case 001.jpg
t-case 002.jpg
Installed the T-case into my Blazer. What a chore:crazy:
Anyway immediatly noticed a problem with the shifter. Everytime i shifted the T-Case the shifter bolt would back out causing the shifter to loosen. After some searching on CK-5 of course i realized it was the washer. So i went to work and did some searching. I found 2 new washers and a Teflon washer for a Oil Pan Drain plug. So today i tried the new washers and they didnt work. I then used the old thin washer and the Teflon washer and whala. PERFECT. The shifter shifts and the steel washer moves but the teflon washer keeps the Bolt from backing out.
sjifter.jpg
Only time will tell if this fix will last, but we will see. Next job is to install the crossmember and hook up the drivelines. She is almost road worthy:p:

t-case 001.jpg

t-case 002.jpg

sjifter.jpg
 
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When I bought the 205 it didn't come with a shifter. I bought the shifter with the adapter seperatly. Not sure if the grease fitting is Factory.
 
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