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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises

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kennyw said:
Where did you get your 1.5" spacers at?
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Kenny, this guy is an old drag racer, that does this now...very nice pieces, and by the time you add all the hardware into the equation, its a fair price for an outstanding piece!

http://www.wheeladapter.com/dually_spacers.php

My 1.5" were custom order, and less than the listing price for the 2" spacers....he made them in one day, shipped them the next...phone order to my doorstep less than a week.
 
76 CrewCab Dually, how to decrease turning radius???

imiceman44 said:
OK so it's like the 2.0 liter engines with 2200hp, they can make it but every race they tear it down and rebuild or sometimes even toss the block and start fresh.
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That's a fairly extreme example but yes you get the idea.

1000+hp diesel pickups are around. For sure. They're not streetable. No matter what a guy says. Do they last? Not really. How long? Who knows. It takes some work to get there too. You don't just shotgun a bunch of parts at a diesel engine and make 1000hp. And at 1000hp in an B cummins your generally pushing towards 2000ftlbs
 
So I'll be taking the 6BTA out soon, and need a heavier duty engine stand than I have....mine is a homemade 2"x 3/16" wall square tube design and is stout but only has a single caster in front and no provisions to support the front of the engine....what ideas to you have? Yahoo images isn't showing me much.
 
Most guys do something that looks like an engine stand on both sides of the motor. Like left and right.
 
Like this, That i found on GOOGLE images.

32438d1298984351-cummins-engine-stand-engine-cleanup-031.jpg
 
Sorry for ribbing you about yahoo. And i shouldn't say most guys. I should say, some guys. Others just build a heavy duty normal style stand.
 
I guess its the default search here at work!
I have the rear adjustable head on my engine stand already, and the stand is long enough to go bellhousing to front end, just wondered what is out there to support the front, I was thinking some support to the front of the block somewhere?....I think I will do a 4 caster setup so it isn't tippy too.
 
i built a wooden 4x4 stand and metal mounts to the stock motor mounts. it is in my build.
 
got it, I guess I'll see what I can work off my engine stand I have now when I get the motor on the ground...could you use those two front supports with the front gear cover still on?
 
here is the stand I would use...with a wider front and swivel casters, and then some supports to either the engine mounts on the side or the front of the block...another rotating head would be nice to have up there!

engine stand2.JPG

engine stand.JPG
 
I used a heavy duty engine cradle from HF with 4 casters, and I supported the bottom of the engine with wood blocks on top of the casters.
I will try to take a pic tomorrow.
 
DEMON44 said:
I would not use that tripod stand.

But quality HD quad castor automotive style stand will work fine.
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I plan on using this with the addtional upgrades listed above. The heaviest I've had on it was an all iron 454...it didn't hardly flinch at that, so I think with a wide front end and front supports it will be fine.:whistle:
 
It's not entirely the total weight. Which a bbc doesn't match the cummins in either. It's top heavy. Tri pod is not that stable. You can eat it very easily.
 
yeah that is the plan...the front foot print will be about as wide as the back.
 
I'm about to start taking things apart on the Dodge truck....one thing that comes to mind is the fuel system. Is there anything I need to do now that can make things go as smoothly as possible when it comes the time to start this engine again?

Right now it turns over about 3-5 revs before firing ( not cranking until after the "wait to start" light goes out). I know there is a mechanical lift pump on the lower drivers side and then the injection pump on front drivers side...are these still under high pressure even after sitting for a couple weeks without running? Is there particular precautions to take before cracking a line open, and where should I bleed the pressure off at? I'm only familiar with gas FI systems that basically you can wrap with a thick towel and crack the line open (batt. disconnected) to bleed the pressure off.
 
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