DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
It doesn't have to be.
CK5
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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
I'm going to have to get the wiring out, get the schematic for each vehicle and see where to go from there.
I need to see some stuff in my eyes, then more questions will arise I'm sure...I'll try to document as much as possible for future reference not only to others but for my own future use as well.
I need to see some stuff in my eyes, then more questions will arise I'm sure...I'll try to document as much as possible for future reference not only to others but for my own future use as well.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
If you run the switch to the dash you manually control the grid heater. By manually controlling the grid heater relay trigger wire. You dont need the PCM there.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Don't use a switch that can stay on. Only a single throw spring return switch. Or a push button. Run it way longer than 5 sec. 10-20 sec depending on ambient temp. Oh wait that's more for winter time. Ya a 8-10 sec hit if it's cool out is good.
Remember the grid heater is an auxilliary starting aide. It's not required to actually start or operate the engine. The cummins is direct injection. Your not heating precups to facilitate combustion like a 6.2.
Remember the grid heater is an auxilliary starting aide. It's not required to actually start or operate the engine. The cummins is direct injection. Your not heating precups to facilitate combustion like a 6.2.
After I got mine going, the summer was fine but the CO winter wasn't good. I ran without a grid heater for the first half of the winter (still working on everything at the time) but having the grid heater made a 300% difference in how happy it was about starting. I store my truck outside and we commonly see below zero overnight temps during the winter.
I have my grid heater wired through a Ford starter solenoid with a momentary switch, it works great.
I have my grid heater wired through a Ford starter solenoid with a momentary switch, it works great.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Exactly. And 5w40 synthetic will make a big difference in winter starting. I actually use 0w40, that make another 300% difference in winter starting.
But I know you said you won't really be winter driving it. that's why I recommended what I recommended.
But I know you said you won't really be winter driving it. that's why I recommended what I recommended.
That is a good point Luke....leaving it on wouldn't be good probably, it must draw a bunch of amps right?
I like the momentary switch, are those adjustable as well?
And correct on the winter driving...at this point in the year it will be sleeping for the winter. So maybe down to mid 30's if we get a cold fall night, but usually 40-100*F...4-38*C... would be the extremes of each end of temp range it will run at.
I like the momentary switch, are those adjustable as well?
And correct on the winter driving...at this point in the year it will be sleeping for the winter. So maybe down to mid 30's if we get a cold fall night, but usually 40-100*F...4-38*C... would be the extremes of each end of temp range it will run at.
more insulation pics...
2nd pic is the pass side where the tire got mashed into the firewall....that part is flimsy...has lost its rigidity and form.
3rd and 4th pics are some tears from the engine removal
hinge seems to be in great shape.
2nd pic is the pass side where the tire got mashed into the firewall....that part is flimsy...has lost its rigidity and form.
3rd and 4th pics are some tears from the engine removal
hinge seems to be in great shape.
not sure what the best way to ship these parts is....they are about 64" long and 12x20 obviously will be expensive to ship a box that size...how to fold or cut them to fit in a smaller package? Any ideas?
I was thinking about it today, and the answer I came up with is to get a box from big screen tv from best buy or some other home electronic store. They may a few laying around from the displays or one brought back from a home delivery.
those look stout!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sweet!
This D80??? came out of a Ford application, this is how it sits in the junkyard...ford rims on it, some ford logo brackets on it, not sure on axle ratio or whats inside (locker or not)
Can anyone tell for sure its an 80 or is it a 70?
It has the VSS(?) plug on the top side of the diff. (which would work with my 47RE transplant
I could not find casting numbers on it in the webs, and didn't have a good way to search for the stamped numbers in the tube either.
What's it worth?
Can anyone tell for sure its an 80 or is it a 70?
It has the VSS(?) plug on the top side of the diff. (which would work with my 47RE transplant
I could not find casting numbers on it in the webs, and didn't have a good way to search for the stamped numbers in the tube either.
What's it worth?
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
That looks like an 80 Center chunk for sure. The D80 has the web spread on all four corners like that. If it's a ford superduty. It's an earlier 450 version likely. With a large 8 lug pattern. Pull the cover to verify the ratio. But it might be a dodge application D80. '01.5-'02 3500 dually had a drw D80 with disk brakes as well. But a standard 8on6.5" lug pattern.
The bolt pattern will reveal all.
No worth very much IMO. But some guys think the dodge disk D80 are gold plated for some reason.
The AAM 11.5" rears from newer GM and Dodges are way cheaper. More plentiful. And a good option IMO.
The bolt pattern will reveal all.
No worth very much IMO. But some guys think the dodge disk D80 are gold plated for some reason.
The AAM 11.5" rears from newer GM and Dodges are way cheaper. More plentiful. And a good option IMO.
Is there not some kind of ID tag between the cover bolts? Most Dana built rear ends will have one unless it has been removed.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Looks long gone to me.
