andyblack
Registered Loser
You probably have a CD player that tells the time anyway. Mr High Tech.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
76 K5 Build; More Parts....Trucks
- Thread starter toomany
- Start date
Got the motor running today and broke in the cam.
Woke up this morning and got right to it. Put the gauges in dash, wired them up. Did the u-joints and built the exhaust. I didn't use the H-pipe that I had, probably make my own with some of the tube I have left.
Motor fired right up after a few cranks. Have a decent oil leak at the rear of the passenger valve cover. That's not really a big deal because I'm going to go back through and re-lash the valves (think I have a few too tight).
I didn't get a whole lot of pictures today, but grabbed a few.
How the passenger side exhaust looks. Both sides start with a 4' long straight piece, then bend up/toward the center. Out of the muffler and around the tank. Haven't finished the tail pipes yet. Everything is welded except for the connection between the first straight section and the first curved section. This makes it easier to install/remove. Next time I'm under the truck I'll get some installed pics.
Drivers side
Passenger side as it turns toward the outside of the truck.
Same shot, but drivers side
Passenger side looking forward. I think I have a straight stick stuck in the last bend to show clearance/how tail pipe will run.
Drivers side. You can get an idea of how the pipes are run from this one.
Undecided on how I'm going to finish the pipes off. Probably do a 45* turndown/out at the bumper.
Woke up this morning and got right to it. Put the gauges in dash, wired them up. Did the u-joints and built the exhaust. I didn't use the H-pipe that I had, probably make my own with some of the tube I have left.
Motor fired right up after a few cranks. Have a decent oil leak at the rear of the passenger valve cover. That's not really a big deal because I'm going to go back through and re-lash the valves (think I have a few too tight).
I didn't get a whole lot of pictures today, but grabbed a few.
How the passenger side exhaust looks. Both sides start with a 4' long straight piece, then bend up/toward the center. Out of the muffler and around the tank. Haven't finished the tail pipes yet. Everything is welded except for the connection between the first straight section and the first curved section. This makes it easier to install/remove. Next time I'm under the truck I'll get some installed pics.
Drivers side
Passenger side as it turns toward the outside of the truck.
Same shot, but drivers side
Passenger side looking forward. I think I have a straight stick stuck in the last bend to show clearance/how tail pipe will run.
Drivers side. You can get an idea of how the pipes are run from this one.
Undecided on how I'm going to finish the pipes off. Probably do a 45* turndown/out at the bumper.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Awesome man. You're really getting things done quick.
So you're doing to run the pipes straight out the back and turned down? I've heard it's not a good idea to do that on a Blazer because it will let exhaust air (CO) into the cab and give you a headache.
So you're doing to run the pipes straight out the back and turned down? I've heard it's not a good idea to do that on a Blazer because it will let exhaust air (CO) into the cab and give you a headache.
I've had it both ways, out the side is a tad better but you still get fumes either way. I can always change it.later on, doubt I'll be driving with the window down much anytime soon.
Good to know I can find a k5 thats not rusted/rotted out in mi for less than 2 grand. Should be buying one in the next 6 months or so.
Well after dickin with it most of yesterday and some of today....I had to pull the 400 out and put the 350 back in.
I was having problems with cylinder #1 not firing all the time. Tried the simple stuff first, plug, wires, cap/rotor, went through the valves a few times. Still wasn't hittin on all 8. Did a quick compression check and it (#1) was down quite a bit compared to the others. Could be cam, valves or rings. Was also down on oil pressure from when it first fired...30psi running vs. 60+ before. I'm hoping one of the plugs in the oil galleys behind the cam popped out as they weren't the tightest going in, knew I should have tapped them for pipe plugs. Rather than do any/more damage to it, I decided to pull it and open it up to see what's going on.
Only had about 5 hours into pulling the 400 and firing the 350. That included swapping the intake, water pump, clutch, motor mounts, distributor and accessories. 350 started like it hadn't been touched.
I will say the difference in sound between the two is quite dramatic. The 400 has more of a pop/crackle to it. Probably from the extra compression and cam. The 350 is smooth and mellow.
Probably be a week or so before I can tear into the 400 again. Once I get it straightened out I'll probably wait for warmer weather to swap again, was 20* and windy today.
I was having problems with cylinder #1 not firing all the time. Tried the simple stuff first, plug, wires, cap/rotor, went through the valves a few times. Still wasn't hittin on all 8. Did a quick compression check and it (#1) was down quite a bit compared to the others. Could be cam, valves or rings. Was also down on oil pressure from when it first fired...30psi running vs. 60+ before. I'm hoping one of the plugs in the oil galleys behind the cam popped out as they weren't the tightest going in, knew I should have tapped them for pipe plugs. Rather than do any/more damage to it, I decided to pull it and open it up to see what's going on.
Only had about 5 hours into pulling the 400 and firing the 350. That included swapping the intake, water pump, clutch, motor mounts, distributor and accessories. 350 started like it hadn't been touched.
I will say the difference in sound between the two is quite dramatic. The 400 has more of a pop/crackle to it. Probably from the extra compression and cam. The 350 is smooth and mellow.
Probably be a week or so before I can tear into the 400 again. Once I get it straightened out I'll probably wait for warmer weather to swap again, was 20* and windy today.
They are out there, just have to look and be ready with cash when you find one. Went and looked at a clean, 1 owner 77 K20 Camper Special the other day. No motor in it but it was very solid, especially for the $450 asking price. Still thinking about going back to snag that.
wage92
1/2 ton status
when i install the those back smaller plugs, i usually use a chisel against the edge of the hole after they are installed to keep them from spinning or pushing out.
I think it was a good decision to pull it, hopefully what ever is wrong wont require too much to correct, that 400 will be mean
are you still running the serpentine bassackwards?
when i install the those back smaller plugs, i usually use a chisel against the edge of the hole after they are installed to keep them from spinning or pushing out.
I think it was a good decision to pull it, hopefully what ever is wrong wont require too much to correct, that 400 will be mean
The ones in the back of the block are tapped from the factory. I peened over the edges of the front plugs, but they had been done before. I'm not even sure why they were out in the forst place. Either way...they went in real easy, a quick tap from the hammer and they were in.
On the couple test drives I did do, it made great.power and pulled real stong.
are you still running the serpentine bassackwards?
Yes, I'm still.running the belt incorrectly. Seems to be the only way to keep the squeal.away. Any more than half a wrap on the crank pulley and it yells at me. Seems to be working fine the way I have it.
Finally had some time today to tear into the 400 to see what was up with it. I put together a cart for it so I could spin it over and even start it once I get it back together.
Started out by doing a compression test on all 8. Number 1 was completely dead. The other 7 popped up to 160+ and held there. Re-did the valves for number one and still nothing. Decided to pull the head off, was easy as the intake was on the motor I put back into the truck. As soon as I got it off I could see the problem...daylight through the exhaust port. The exhaust valve was bent. I don't think it happened while the head was running on my motor though. No marks on the piston and everything in the valvetrain was new (except for the vavle). My pushrod is still straight too. Where it's bent is down by the head, the stem is still straight.
At least it's an easy fix. Going to pull all the others just to check them out since I'm this far into it.
Started out by doing a compression test on all 8. Number 1 was completely dead. The other 7 popped up to 160+ and held there. Re-did the valves for number one and still nothing. Decided to pull the head off, was easy as the intake was on the motor I put back into the truck. As soon as I got it off I could see the problem...daylight through the exhaust port. The exhaust valve was bent. I don't think it happened while the head was running on my motor though. No marks on the piston and everything in the valvetrain was new (except for the vavle). My pushrod is still straight too. Where it's bent is down by the head, the stem is still straight.
At least it's an easy fix. Going to pull all the others just to check them out since I'm this far into it.
andyblack
Registered Loser
That won't cost anything to fix, but why did it bend, and just that one. It didn't suck in any water did it? Of course then there would be more damage than just one bent valve.
I'm thinking it was bent when I got the heads and I just didn't catch it when I replaced the springs and seals. The heads did come off a circle track motor so an over-rev isn't out of the question.
Update time:
Got my new valve in and installed. Heads back on. Motor pops on all 8 now when rolling it over.
Wasn't planning on doing anything with it until spring or at least till it warmed up some. That was until my clutch fork decided to break on me. Happened on my way to work last night. The clip that holds it to the ball stud broke off. I was able to find a new one today. Will try to pull the motor out after work tomorrow. Probably won't put the 400 in till Tuesday or Wednesday.
Only pic I have for now. Old vs. New
Got my new valve in and installed. Heads back on. Motor pops on all 8 now when rolling it over.
Wasn't planning on doing anything with it until spring or at least till it warmed up some. That was until my clutch fork decided to break on me. Happened on my way to work last night. The clip that holds it to the ball stud broke off. I was able to find a new one today. Will try to pull the motor out after work tomorrow. Probably won't put the 400 in till Tuesday or Wednesday.
Only pic I have for now. Old vs. New
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Yep. She's bent alright.
400 is back in!
Even with single digit temps I managed to get the 400 dropped back in and bolted down. Got home around 7:30 pulled the bellhousing to install the new fork then started swapping parts between the two motors. Had the new one in and the hood back on around 11. Only bolted it in and installed the distributor since I had the drop light out and would need that to see down the hole to move the oil pump shaft.
I should be able to get every thing back on and the motor fired tomorrow. Hopefully it'll be the last time I swap motors in this thing for awhile.
Even with single digit temps I managed to get the 400 dropped back in and bolted down. Got home around 7:30 pulled the bellhousing to install the new fork then started swapping parts between the two motors. Had the new one in and the hood back on around 11. Only bolted it in and installed the distributor since I had the drop light out and would need that to see down the hole to move the oil pump shaft.
I should be able to get every thing back on and the motor fired tomorrow. Hopefully it'll be the last time I swap motors in this thing for awhile.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Well at least you are awfully efficient at it now!
Had to drive the wife into work today because of bad roads, you'd think living in Michigan her whole life she'd know how to handle driving in the snow, so I got a late start on it. Got on it around 5:30 and had it driving a bit after 7. Still need to time it and adjust the carb some. Maybe tomorrow. I'm a little hesitant about doing it in the extreme cold, not that I don't want to do it when it's this cold, just that the motor runs cold. I don't think it got above 170* at all in the hour I had it running, only fan that came on was the heater motor. But it's running well enough that I can drive it too and from work for now.
At least I've got that going for me. Just over an hour coming out and about two going back in.
At least I've got that going for me. Just over an hour coming out and about two going back in.
Spent some time getting it dialed in today. Set the timing and idle mixture screws. Adjusted the flap for the secondaries so they open correctly. Motor was running good and making great power. That was the good part of the day. The bad part, I thought I had an oil leak from the passenger valve cover. Pulled it off and put some silicone and a new gasket on it. Went for a drive, came back and parked it in some clean snow so I could see if it was still dripping. Saw a couple oil spots starting this time from the drivers side and the passenger side. Got down under it and looked around. Rear main is leaking pretty good. 
Unsure if I want to pull the pan and deal with it in the truck or pull the motor again to do it. If I pull it again I might say screw it and put it in my 78 TransAm.
Unsure if I want to pull the pan and deal with it in the truck or pull the motor again to do it. If I pull it again I might say screw it and put it in my 78 TransAm.
