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76 K5 Build; More Parts....Trucks

Spent some time getting it dialed in today. Set the timing and idle mixture screws. Adjusted the flap for the secondaries so they open correctly. Motor was running good and making great power. That was the good part of the day. The bad part, I thought I had an oil leak from the passenger valve cover. Pulled it off and put some silicone and a new gasket on it. Went for a drive, came back and parked it in some clean snow so I could see if it was still dripping. Saw a couple oil spots starting this time from the drivers side and the passenger side. Got down under it and looked around. Rear main is leaking pretty good. :frown1: Unsure if I want to pull the pan and deal with it in the truck or pull the motor again to do it. If I pull it again I might say screw it and put it in my 78 TransAm.

2 piece rear main seal, and its fairly fresh....i would do it right on vehicle. But you are the professional remover and installer haha so its ultimately your decision :thumb:
 
2 piece rear main seal, and its fairly fresh....i would do it right on vehicle. But you are the professional remover and installer haha so its ultimately your decision :thumb:

Right. I'm just not sure why it decided to start leaking. I don't think it was leaking when I had it in the first time. Maybe it was and I just didn't notice it because I was dealing with it not running on all 8. Going to wait a couple days and think about it.
 
make sure its the rear main, ive heard of guys taking it apart to find out it was the oil pressure fitting behind the distributor...basically what im saying is just be positive you know its the rear main, esp if you are taking the engine out.

sounds like a good approach though, dont rush anything, think it over :thumb:
 
make sure its the rear main, ive heard of guys taking it apart to find out it was the oil pressure fitting behind the distributor...basically what im saying is just be positive you know its the rear main, esp if you are taking the engine out.

sounds like a good approach though, dont rush anything, think it over :thumb:

I was going to look there too, just to be sure. But when I got down under the truck I could see it running down the back of the oil pan and some dripping into the flywheel around the 6 o'clock area.
 
i would still double check just to be safe, ive seen leaks that look like they are coming from the back of the block and later you find out they were coming from somewhere completely different. Just dont wanna see ya do more work then you need to :doah:
 
My old k5s 305 was leaking oil like an sob. Swapped it out for a 350, while swapping everything over. Turns out the oil sending unit was loose :haha:

So yeah I'd check it :haha:
 
Decided to try to replace the seal while the motor is in the truck. It's definitely coming from there. Going to pick up the new one and a 1-piece style oil pan gasket tomorrow.
 
So...the old rear main seal may or may not have been installed backwards. :doah:

Put the new one in along with a new pan gasket today. No more leaks now. Had time to fidle with the carb some too. Runs very smoth and has awesome throttle response. Have a flat spot if you go wide open from idle. Think I can tighten up the secondary air valve some to take care of that.

Also scored a center council of craigslist too. $20. It's even the correct color, red.
 
So...the old rear main seal may or may not have been installed backwards. :doah:

Put the new one in along with a new pan gasket today. No more leaks now. Had time to fidle with the carb some too. Runs very smoth and has awesome throttle response. Have a flat spot if you go wide open from idle. Think I can tighten up the secondary air valve some to take care of that.

Also scored a center council of craigslist too. $20. It's even the correct color, red.

at this point i would consider that good news, no more leaks :woot:
 
I've needed tires for a long time. Basically since I bought the truck. Welding the rear end didn't help things any. I've been looking on craiglslist forever, either they are gone before I call or they are stupid high priced (like new prices) for something that is no better than what I have. I've also been checking a local board. I've found a few sets, but again usually gone or too far to drive.

Been looking for anything from 36"-40". Was really planning on buying a set of Hummer take offs (37" MTRs). But the company never returned my emails/calls about shipping. Found a set of 44" Monster Mudders already on 8 lug rims for $500. Tread looked good and they were even grooved. Made arrangements to go look at them today.

Now, before I saw these I figured they'd run on the small side. My current Gumbos are 38.5's and they measure just under 36"" aired up. Not these, they come in at 43". The price was right and they had life left in them so I bought them...and who doesn't like big tires.

After we loaded up he asked me if I needed a 60. Told him I probably did now. Turns out he's got a Dana60 for sale too. Complete, along with everything needed to go crossover steering. Asked him how much, he said he was asking $800 but had been sitting on it for awhile and would take $700 for everything. Decided I might as well get that too, since I'd need it eventually. Only down side is it's a Dodge unit, but it'll get me into the 1ton game for now. Next week sometime I'll go back down to pick it up, it's currently at his brothers.






Plan is to add a zero rate up front and move the axle forward some. Out back another zero rate along with a shackle flip to get rid of the block. Which was in the works already, wanted to get that done before I did a traction bar...I've got some bad wheel hop sometimes. I'll do some trimming front/back to clear the rest. Stuck one on there to see what it looked like. It fits, but barely hits when I turn. Actually driving and turning would surely make contact.

 
Just put that little tire infront of the truck on there, rubbing problems solved on the cheap.

And thats a steal on the 60 and the tires. Around here I have found 60s with bent tubes and missing parts and they still want 700 for them. Silly folks. Its just a tube swap the one said, lol.
 
Just put that little tire infront of the truck on there, rubbing problems solved on the cheap.

And thats a steal on the 60 and the tires. Around here I have found 60s with bent tubes and missing parts and they still want 700 for them. Silly folks. Its just a tube swap the one said, lol.

That small tire is what I'm currently running. It's a 245/70 or something like that. I was real tempted to put them on and let them clearance themselves. But wised up and took it back off.

I'm hoping this one is pretty much ready to bolt in. From the pictures he sent me it looks to be. Already confirmed it's not a D61. They usually go for 800-1000 around here, so I think I did pretty good.


Side shots with the tires just rolled up next to the truck, on the little rollers. The back should have no real problems clearing, with the giant leaf pack the PO put in I get no suspension movement back there...an issue to work on down the road.



 
I was kinda wondering if it was actually a D61 but I didn't want to say anything. You don't want one of those things. This is gonna be awesome.
 
Went on a road trip after work today to pick up my 60 and steering parts. Got the axle, 2wd steering box w/pitman arm, drag link, extra set of new lock-outs, set of drive flanges, spring plates and some hardware. The steering box is ported/taped to hydro assist too. It's taped on the side, and from reading the recent thread is the better way to go. So that's a nice bonus I wasn't expecting. Not a bad haul for $700....well $800 if you count the $100 I gave my friend for gas.


Can sort of make out the "60". He had some allen head bolts holding the cover on, stock cover still.




Passenger side steering arm for crossover. Not sure of what make it is, real thick and beefy.




Whole thing. Drag link just in front of it.




Box, flanges, lockouts, hardware, spring plates.




Brand new Selectro hubs were included. Don't know much about them, just that the wheel hub is machined differently for them vs. and internal one.




If I end up having problems with the hubs I can always throw these on. Look to be an OEM part.




Garage is getting even more cramped now, with the tires and axle in there now. This was taken a couple days ago after I picked up some.




Plan is to pull the brakes/hubs/kingpins/cover apart and check everything out. Replace what is needed and maybe give it quick cleaning/paint job. Hopefully this week I'll have enough extra money to order some zero rates and a shackle flip. Probably going to go with Diy parts, used ORD on my last k5 so time for something new. Plus I met Kurt at Daves a couple years ago and he supports/is active this site a lot (not that ORD doesn't). I'm pretty sure I have some new u=bolts around here from a 14BFF swap that never took place, might be able to thread them down some more and use them up front. When I get to the rear I'll get some new ones made if the current ones don't come off easy. Eventually I'll find a locker of some kind for the front, just concerned about getting it under there first.


On a side note....I've been having some carb problems with the new motor. It was only at idle and low rpm's. Never could get it tuned right, once I'd get it, it'd be different next time I drove it. It was annoying me so much I was ready to rip it off and throw some fuel injection at it (which I still plan to do...just not this soon). I bought a carb kit way back when I started driving the truck (last May?) but never actually pulled the carb apart to go through it. The problems I was having back then went away on their own and that motor ran great for what it was (tons of miles). Figured I didn't have anything to loose so I pulled it apart and decided to see what was going on. After finding what I did, I'm surprised it even ran at all. The primary rods were both bent bad and not even in the jets. Which would explain my low rpm stumbles. The accelerator pump was also torn but was still working. I went though my stash to try to find a set of replacement rods but struck out (this carb is the pre 75 style, all my others are 75+). Did my best to straighten them, reset the carb back to factory spec and re installed it. Motor runs soooo much better now, still plan on FI though....probably around Oct '14.

Bent




Straight

 
the flanges are the stock dodge full time 4wd part. I dont know how those selectro hubs will hold up to 44s tho, I swap my flanges on if I know im going to be using it hard.
 
Great progress:thumb: I've got a dodge 60 under my truck on 44"s. mine kinda just happened as well never was my intention when I bought my truck for $900. But we all know how it goes:doah: haha. :popcorn:
 
Those rods seem to be the most delicate and easy to mess up things on a Quadrajet. Probably got bent during the P.O.'s rebuild when he went to reinstall the top plate and the rods didn't go down in there just right and/or got caught up on the gasket or something.
 
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