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77 Blazer - The Beast build

Picked this 77 Blazer from NY today (I am in Philly) Factory 400ci smb. CURRENT STATUS 468 BB with 700R4 & cast iron cased NP205 Front is a Dana 60 and Rear is 14 Bolt Seems to be 4.88 geared 20" Weld Racing rims & 39.5 4" Suspension & 2" Body lift
Overview Gallery Discussion
UPDATE - WORK ON HOLD - NEW GARAGE

Been absent from the forum and all work is on hold. I've been focused on getting my new garage built.

25'x20' and a 14' ceiling. Getting ready to pour half the concrete this Friday!! The garage itself will be poured Friday so I can start electric and putting in shelving.

2 post lift should go in mid April and THEN work will continue on the Blazer. Everything is ready to go onto the frame. Engine, Transmission, Transfer case and axles.

Hope to update with work continuing soon.

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sweetk30 said:
How far off the wall are you for post lift ? . . Reason i ask is need around min 4ft to even start to not be a bottle neck working on the side of vehicles .

Otherwise looks great .
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Are you saying 4 ft from the vehicle? I see what you are saying, trying to slide an axle out or something could become a problem if the wall is too close.

I am about to install used rotary lift in my shop, after moving a wall over (16 ft) to make another heated stall. I was going to center it on a 12 ft wide door opening, with the wall being over a foot further out on one side, making it over 7 ft from the center. Which is what this diagram from rotary says for an SPOA9.

It sounds like I would be better off fudging the lift over a foot or so away from the wall? It looks like @ZombieK5 is in a similar situation...

The other side opposite the wall for me is another vehicle stall with no lift.

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folkenheath said:
Are you saying 4 ft from the vehicle? I see what you are saying, trying to slide an axle out or something could become a problem if the wall is too close.

I am about to install used rotary lift in my shop, after moving a wall over (16 ft) to make another heated stall. I was going to center it on a 12 ft wide door opening, with the wall being over a foot further out on one side, making it over 7 ft from the center. Which is what this diagram from rotary says for an SPOA9.

It sounds like I would be better off fudging the lift over a foot or so away from the wall? It looks like @ZombieK5 is in a similar situation...

The other side opposite the wall for me is another vehicle stall with no lift.
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I think I will be OK on the distance from the wall. garage door is 10' wide. The K5 is 71" wide which leaves me 4 feet to work with. 2 feet per side and the lift is 3'6" from the wall. That should be plenty to pull an axle out (at least 5 1/2 feet to the wall). I was limited on the garage width because of my property line. I had to get a variance that allowed me to build the garage 20' wide....woulda liked 25' or even 30' but it wasn't meant to be.

Plus, the 14Bolt axle shafts are: Right 37-5/8" Left 31-5/8" I think they will pull out fine. I will just need to keep that area against the wall clutter free.

Pouring garage slab tomorrow...

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Got the floor coated today. I went with a polyaspartic coating instead of epoxy. The poly has significantly better UV resistance. Came out really nice. I get to walk on it tomorrow. The next thing to go in is the list. I went with Bendpak. I hope to have it installed by the 11th or the 18th of April.

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That looks awesome!
you’ll love the BendPak!
 
Because really, how many cars does one person need??

Found this 1990 Silverado 1500 for sale a few miles from me. It has 236,000 miles.

Drove up to see it and before I knew it my check book was assaulted and I ended up with a 34yr old truck that runs awesome!!! Now I have a running vehicle! Wooohoooo!

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That doesn't look very rusty, did it come from somewhere else?

Those wheels are around 2017 Denali wheels I think.
 
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folkenheath said:
That doesn't look very rusty, did it come from somewhere else?

Those wheels are around 2017 Denali wheels I think.
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I think I got a good one. I got it from a 17- year old high school kid that purchased it with the help of his father. His father rebuilds old vintage Chevy pickup trucks like 1948 year range. He has a beautiful 48 he restore and a beautiful 1950 Ford he restored. He's also done several Jeep restorations. The dad is very mechanical and I spend about a day and a half talking with him about various cars we've all owned just telling stories and making up lies. His shop is a typical messy Shop full of car parts and various projects. The transmission was rebuilt by local guy that has a very good reputation. The transmission is absolutely silky smooth. The 241 transfer case probably needs to be rebuilt, there seems to be a small oil leak coming from somewhere. One of the valve covers on the 350 engine is seeping oil which is rust protecting the rest of the engine and part of the transmission. It still has the original cast iron manifolds. The kid put a exhaust system that exits the side in front of the passenger rear tire. One of the cab corners was replaced by the kid as well as one of the body mount perches on the frame. It has a crappy drop in bed liner that I need to replace and have it line-x'd.

The truck came from New Jersey before the kid purchased this so it's spent some time in the northeast. The rocker panels are solid, for the most part. The passenger side has a couple of rust-through spots on the rocker panel but the inner rocker panels are golden. That should be a fairly simple repair. The paint has faded through to metal on some spots but overall the truck is a nice patina. I plan on keeping the patina and just protecting the rust spots as best I can so they don't get worse. I have zero plans to modify anything beyond replace and repair as required.

The parking brake is non-existent and I need to somehow remedy that. It seems every square body I've ever come across needs to have the parking brake cables replaced. Typical rear drum front disc. The independent front suspension is new to me so I need to start learning about that. The front end looks solid. The front grill has the Chrome peeling off so I'll either replace it with an aftermarket grill or just leave it as it is. The headlights are all fogged over and I'm just going to get brand new headlights. The seat is a bench with a fold down armrest. If you lean on the armrest the seat back kind of moves forward so I'm thinking that needs to be fixed somehow. The driver side door regulator is broken but they gave me a new one to put into it. Also, the door hinge pins and springs need to be replaced but they also gave me those parts as well as the tools.

Overall it seems really nice. It starts right up with no hesitation and there does not appear to be any oil burn. No blue smoke or anything when you start it.

The air conditioning system is the original R12 system. It was never replaced and is not functioning. I need to replace the compressor and the accumulator. They're also is no condenser installed. So that's going to take some work and money.

I'm calling it a good find for $5,950.

I'm going to have to start posting questions about my Blazer and pickup.

Also, you are correct. Those are Denali Wheels. I have no idea what year they came from.
 
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