I'm not sure if the stock kingpin springs are still in there or what, but it needs something, and perhaps the fact that I got a 7*(?) shim under the springpack (for pinion angle correction) might be contributing to the problem?
Yes, you may have just created negative caster with that much shim, some of the older axles only had 4 degrees of caster to begin with. You want at least 5 degrees of positive caster, preferrably more like 8, which is what the factory went too in the later axles. Mine ended up with 9 or 10 after I rotated the Cs, went a degree or two more than I should have even after all the measurements, but it handles great that way.
The Vette is overdue for at least one last drive this fall....I don't think I'll bother getting it to the track until I have more time to devot to tuning it more.
What do you mean, the track is the BEST place to tune it, not the place to go after that.

The Bronze bushings wear before the king pin. The King pin is harder material therefore the bronze gives first. I have spring less arms on the buggy/race car and love it. Set the load bolts and walk away.
If you have ever taken a king pin apart that has sustained a massive impact you do find the plastic is broken but given the design of the knuckle the plastic just breaks but is tightly contained in the Knuckle. I have broken at least 1 knuckle, didn't have a new plastic and just installed the broken plastic back in the replacement knuckle and it was tight on the king pin and in the knuckle. Drove on that broken plastic for a long time, but I have full hydro steering on an offroad only vehicle that had low tire pressures and 42" tires on it all the time.
I can understand your theory about the plastic being a good buffer on a big hit but it is a very small buffer and doesn't save the knuckle from breaking in real world experience. The bronze bushings take away any slop the plastic may have and the load bolt is a very positive pressure that can't change like the springs do when they fatigue and you have to add washers. I think the bronze bushing is well worth the money and greatly overcomes any downsides it may have.
Thanks for the hardcore feedback Brandon, you definitely use your rig harder than I do so it's good to hear the outcomes of your experience. I haven't broken a knuckle (hope not too). I think you definitely have more reason to run that springless setup on your race rig than an all around rig that's for sure.
I guess I meant the spring is more of the buffer than the plastic, but if the knuckle still breaks then I guess it doesn't matter.
Don't you have to readjust the preload as the bushing wears? I thought the spring was there to be self adjusting as everything wears in. Or have you found that the initial adjustment lasts a very long time?

Just got home 



