Dave, that looks pretty good. However, if you start at the top of the tube, and work your way down both sides, it will look much better. It will flow in easier and lay down smoother.
And I really like the dash bars and window bars, nice work!
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Dave, that looks pretty good. However, if you start at the top of the tube, and work your way down both sides, it will look much better. It will flow in easier and lay down smoother.
And I really like the dash bars and window bars, nice work!
Downhand may look nicer, but it doesn't burn in half as good as going up, and ending up with cold-lap is likely. If strength is a concern I never go downhand. Better to have a weld that needs a little dressing after but is strong, than a pretty weld only fused on one side and not very deeply fused on the other.
Uphand FTW.
Rene
Thanks for the advice and explaination. I take it FTW is...for the win?
Funny, I always thought it meant F*** The world.... This changes things a bit lol
I didn't realize that Rene', but for me it was actually easier to control the puddle going up also. Not all of them are with that technique, but learning to watch the puddle has helped me be somewhat successful doing overhead welds too! I have a lot of ugly looking welds, but they all seem to have pretty good heat penetration marks.
I just gotta keep pulling the trigger
I feel like I'm getting better at it overall though.
Now maybe I should go back and try exhaust tubing again
Oh wait, I got some fender mods to do coming up....that should be a new exercise in blow through technology...
Yep thats it!
I guess that would make a difference on how you read a response with that in it...
Just to further explain, when you run downhand the puddle tends to overrun itself preventing good fusion. It can be done, but it will never be half as strong as going uphand.
FTW=for the win...
When I get up on the wrong side of the bed it means fuvk the world.
Rene
FTW=for the win...
When I get up on the wrong side of the bed it means fuvk the world.
Rene
Also looking for some ideas on the wheel openings to mod for moving the axle back 4"
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285144
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285144
speedfreekk
1/2 ton status
need to turn down your wire speed. A lot is in the settings, I like to weld down, its harder for me to weld up.
Harder for everyone to weld up, but as Rene said if you weld up you do reduce the chance of cold lapping. Welding down can certainly be done properly. Since I suck at welding up I have practiced downhill welding quite a bit and have it down pretty good. Uphill welding will be one of the next welding challenges I tackle
So... your gona pait it rust colour should be sick!
As far as your wheel wells go, I would just trim alittle at a time till the tires don`t rub. JMO
should be sick!As far as your wheel wells go, I would just trim alittle at a time till the tires don`t rub. JMO
big bearded bastard
Registered Member
wow it has been a slow nite at work so i just read all 204 pages of your build thread.....impressive work! i cant wait to see it completed! subscribed!
So... your gona pait it rust colour
As far as your wheel wells go, I would just trim alittle at a time till the tires don`t rub. JMO
Yeah I really am going to paint it rust color! I mean it is the Iron Maiden
Welcome aboard BBB...like your username
Yeah I really am going to paint it rust color! I mean it is the Iron Maiden
I think that is a great idea, and it should look sick!
big bearded bastard
Registered Member
thanks....been my actual nickname since i was 18...
Been working on a few small things, made a plate for the rear of the cage where the tubes come together...its only tacked on but I thought it was a nice addition, and I have a plan for that space!
Added a couple more seat belt tabs, another grab handle, and a step to get into the back without twisting your ankle.
I got the rest of Kerts' tube gussets put in today also.
Had a great day with no rain for a change, so I tried the tires/wheels on to figure out the fender cuts.
The black lines give the same amount of spacing between the rear of the tire, as the front has, about 2.5"
Added a couple more seat belt tabs, another grab handle, and a step to get into the back without twisting your ankle.
I got the rest of Kerts' tube gussets put in today also.
Had a great day with no rain for a change, so I tried the tires/wheels on to figure out the fender cuts.
The black lines give the same amount of spacing between the rear of the tire, as the front has, about 2.5"
Been working on a few small things,
Bad@$$ Dave! It looks tough. Nice work.
I would angle the front opening back to the slider, then put the same angle on the back, just move it back so it meets the bottom where you need it to.
I think you should fly out here, buy my truck, buy my Blazer body and we will put it in the back of the truck and you can drive it home. Tow rig and a rust free body all in one.
take the red section out and slide the other section back. then you'll have to get a couple small pieces of the upper wheel opening lip to fill a small gap there. then it will look like the finished pic when done
Heath I will angle the front fender back to the slider as you suggest, and also cut off the fang some.
The rear fender I will probably move back as Rick has worked in his pic....
I like the stretched look of the opening for the rear.
I think you should fly out here, buy my truck, buy my Blazer body and we will put it in the back of the truck and you can drive it home. Tow rig and a rust free body all in one.
Dam Keith if only I could go back a couple years, I would do so much different.
Rick that is exactly what I was trying to picture in my mind, great photochop on the wheel opening.take the red section out and slide the other section back. then you'll have to get a couple small pieces of the upper wheel opening lip to fill a small gap there. then it will look like the finished pic when done
