Yes it is....in this pic the POS post is on the right, and the master switch is under the botttom left of the battery. 1/0 cable from batt to switch. then it would be the 10ga from the switch to the supply to the FAST comp.
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Yes it is....in this pic the POS post is on the right, and the master switch is under the botttom left of the battery. 1/0 cable from batt to switch. then it would be the 10ga from the switch to the supply to the FAST comp.
That should be fine.
I wired mine completely separate from everything else to ensure no voltage change to the computer but your a lot closer to the battery than mine.
You should be fine IMHO.
I wired mine completely separate from everything else to ensure no voltage change to the computer but your a lot closer to the battery than mine.
You should be fine IMHO.
lol, because the board you are using for a bedside is the same as the wall of your garage for second there I thought you'd cut out your quarterpanels.
good eye Ash....that's to cover the hack body work and Angle iron underneath from a panel replacement sometime in its past!!!
That OSB serves as a backer for a sheetmetal panel to "finish" the wheelwells off inside!
That OSB serves as a backer for a sheetmetal panel to "finish" the wheelwells off inside!
Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
Any feedback on how those BBC L&L headers worked out? Would you buy them again?
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Although I don't have a bunch of time on them they like everything else on the truck gets run hard
They do not leak , I tightened the header bolts after the initial breakin and haven't had to touch them since
The only issue is the dr side collector has interference w the shackle
must haves:
Repair Hydro line leaks... DONE
Build trans skid plate and crossmembers...
Install and wire XD9.5 Winch...
then ready for BundyHill!
hydro line leak repaired, but pump is whining like a bastard now! Will be replaced over the winter.Glad to have Kert, John, Kelly, Luke, and Nate all down to help with repairs/upgrades Friday evening... got a belly and trans pan skid made, but I think it may have been the culprit to cracking the transmission case. It was tight against the 205 and probably pushed it up some when tightening the bolts from the skid to the frame causing the t/c to be tilted up some putting stress on the transmission, then the hard throttle blasts of drag racing and other tom foolery led to a broken case....I was done for the day at Bundyhill.
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just Kert and I left Sunday afternoon, so I decided to put the small tires on it to get it in the shop, as it will be there for a while now!As I hit the lugnuts with the impact, the wheel studs turned on 5 of the 8. So after some investigation and head scratching we came up with a plan to get the nuts off the studs by welding a rod to the wheel studs, slipping a socket with a welded on piece of pipe to it, then holding the rod with vise grips and removing the nut with a pipe wrench on the pipe/socket...worked like a charm...plenty of penetrating oil used also.
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John (Kellyjohn) showed me the correct type of lugnut to use on these kind of wheels...made by McGard, which should cure this problem for good...Kelly has them on her Dodge and has many miles on them without issue.
Now I need to resize the wheelstud holes in the hub/disc and find some bigger studs to press in again.
Now I need to resize the wheelstud holes in the hub/disc and find some bigger studs to press in again.
Thats awesome!!!!!
I feel terrible about this!!!!!
I'm so sorry that the work we did under your rig was likely the cause of the break Dave......
Totally thought the armor work under there was bad a_$ !
It sure looked great with the bow-ties plasma cut in it.
I'm so sorry that the work we did under your rig was likely the cause of the break Dave......
Totally thought the armor work under there was bad a_$ !
It sure looked great with the bow-ties plasma cut in it.
not to worry John, and don't think I was pointing the finger at you or Kert, certainly not the case!....I was the one who took the dimensions to Kert for that t/c plate...and I was the one who said bolt it up tight to the frame, not thinking it would move the t/c at all...so its all on me, my design was off a bit and in haste to get something to cover the trans pan (because I thought we would be running up Warn Valley?) I was insistent about getting it done...besides, the doubler had to come out again anyway to fix a rattle IN the 205 and a leak between the doubler and the trans....and I already have another 400 case sitting on the shelf!
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Be sure to check the thickness of the wheel vs the length of the nut shank. I learned with my Weld wheels that both come in varying sizes so you have to make sure the nuts match the wheel and don't bottom out before getting tight against the wheel.
Right, with the studs that came with the disc/hubs from GMpartsdirect I have 1" of threads showing past the wheel mounting surface, according to McGard the nut has to engage in length equal to the diameter of the stud...John has the same setup on Kelly's Powerwagon, so I will duplicate what he has....I also have to be sure they will mount both sets of wheels...the aluminum slots and the steel beadlocks...I don't think the steel beadlocks will be an issue as the lugnuts are open ended I believe.
I'm not talking about thread engagement, I'm talking about how far the nut shank (the part inside the wheel). If the shank is longer than the wheel is thick then the nut will bottom out on the hub before clamping the wheel. The shanks are available in different lengths. Also the steel vs aluminum wheels will need different style nuts.
Wouldn't the beadlocks probably just use standard acorn style lugnuts? I'd just find some good, regular lug nuts and run those for the beadlocks.
