what are you using for an air/oil seperator?
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
one of these on each valve cover. they have an internal separator/baffle design.
From the valve covers to the bottom of a 4" tall by 1.75" diameter tank, with internal baffles. Then the top of the tank has the PCV going to the bottom of the carb vacuum port.
The lines will be uphill to the PCV tank, so they "should" be self draining back to the valve covers.
From the valve covers to the bottom of a 4" tall by 1.75" diameter tank, with internal baffles. Then the top of the tank has the PCV going to the bottom of the carb vacuum port.
The lines will be uphill to the PCV tank, so they "should" be self draining back to the valve covers.
what tank are you running?
Heading up to Silver Lake tonight after work for a week of playin' in the sand-dunes, the water of Lake MI. , and camping at a buddy's place.
Taking the travel trailer, and the Jeepster up, sure wish the Iron Maiden was done for this
...see ya'll after the 11th.
Taking the travel trailer, and the Jeepster up, sure wish the Iron Maiden was done for this
...see ya'll after the 11th.
I had a great trip to the dunes for the last week, got to see a couple broken front axles, due to the breakover peak on the tops of the dunes....they were just on the throttle too hard coming over the top, and lucky they didn't endo the truck. Hell even a high $$$ buggy broke an A-arm on the front, from a hard landing.
So now I'm thinking maybe a front truss would be a good addition to make, with all the weight I'll have up front.
I was thinking a simple backbone truss like Kert offers for the rear, but tying it in at the spring perches on the top side of the axle, and to the front cover with a plate that would unbolt to allow the cover to be removed.
Anybody have some pics of a simple workable solution to a D60 front truss?
So now I'm thinking maybe a front truss would be a good addition to make, with all the weight I'll have up front.
I was thinking a simple backbone truss like Kert offers for the rear, but tying it in at the spring perches on the top side of the axle, and to the front cover with a plate that would unbolt to allow the cover to be removed.
Anybody have some pics of a simple workable solution to a D60 front truss?
For proven designs....look at the rear axles of desert racing trucks.
One thing I've observed: If you're going to build a truss, extend it ALL the way to the back of the wheel hubs. If you stop short of that point, you are pretty much going to focus the loads right at the point where the brace ends, and that's where your breakage will occur.
The other factor that I'm sure makes a huge difference is the setup of the bumpstops... the softer you can control the bottoming-out of the suspension the less likely you will be to transfer all that shock into the housing.
Trusses are cool because they give you lots of room for speed holes and dimple-dies!!!
One thing I've observed: If you're going to build a truss, extend it ALL the way to the back of the wheel hubs. If you stop short of that point, you are pretty much going to focus the loads right at the point where the brace ends, and that's where your breakage will occur.
The other factor that I'm sure makes a huge difference is the setup of the bumpstops... the softer you can control the bottoming-out of the suspension the less likely you will be to transfer all that shock into the housing.
Trusses are cool because they give you lots of room for speed holes and dimple-dies!!!
Weird I was just thinking about axle trusses, except for a 10 bolt.
So heres my idea. I don't like putting the truss on bottom it gives up too much ground clearance. On top you can run out of room. Well in the front you have to deal with the diff cover.
Of those l like dealing with the diff cover. I don't remember if you have x over or high steer. My idea will only work with high steer. Build the truss all the way across the front of the axle, using a beefy aftermarket diff cover. but make the truss unboltable where it meets the diff cover. I realize this would take some pretty decent fab but you got the skillz Dave
Its just flat plate you would be using. So basically you would be building three trusses. Long side, short side and diff cover, and making the diff cover part of the truss bolt to the short and long side.
Now my suggestion, get Iron Maiden rolling first, you may well have room to build the truss above the axle. That would by far be the easiest way to do it.
In the trusses I have built for other people I always make sure to weld the tubes to the housing before I even start on the truss. Don't have any reason why just something I do.
Also just want to second what Greg said. Air bumps are very important in the dunes they can save you a lot of grief. If not air bumps then some sort of progressive bumpstop like Tibmrens
So heres my idea. I don't like putting the truss on bottom it gives up too much ground clearance. On top you can run out of room. Well in the front you have to deal with the diff cover.
Of those l like dealing with the diff cover. I don't remember if you have x over or high steer. My idea will only work with high steer. Build the truss all the way across the front of the axle, using a beefy aftermarket diff cover. but make the truss unboltable where it meets the diff cover. I realize this would take some pretty decent fab but you got the skillz Dave
Its just flat plate you would be using. So basically you would be building three trusses. Long side, short side and diff cover, and making the diff cover part of the truss bolt to the short and long side. Now my suggestion, get Iron Maiden rolling first, you may well have room to build the truss above the axle. That would by far be the easiest way to do it.
In the trusses I have built for other people I always make sure to weld the tubes to the housing before I even start on the truss. Don't have any reason why just something I do.
Also just want to second what Greg said. Air bumps are very important in the dunes they can save you a lot of grief. If not air bumps then some sort of progressive bumpstop like Tibmrens
toner91
Registered Member
blazinzuk, this may seem like a dumb question, but what exactly is an air bump? I know it's some kind of bumpstop, but could you explain it more? Sorry to hi-jack but I like going up to silver lake too, and if I ever get my blazer back on the road i will probably be taking it up there. thanks.
toner91
Registered Member
Hey thanks munepit. they sure do look great and i'm sure they perform good too, but for the money I think I will have to stay with the regular bump stops for now. Ok, done hi-jacking for now.
no problem Toner...discussion is good for everybody, especially me!
I'm suspension engineering challenged.
Eric, the axle is in right now, and I think your right, I don't have a lot of up travel right now, let alone with the rest of the vehicle body and parts on the frame. I have crossover, but not hi-steer, and the crossover draglink is maybe 6" below the oil pan (stock 6 qt). The front cover I have is Kert's 3/8" flat back model. It has about 1" clearance between the tierod and the cover at full turn.
I just had the D60 rebuilt, including the new inner seals, and I was thinking those would probably get messed up with welding the tubes to the cast iron, so I wasn't really considering doing that. So I'm thinking it has to go above or below to be effective, and an extension of the cover,
or one of these rings
and make the welded to housing truss plate, bolt to that. It would go on over the existing cover, and have a top flange plate on it like in Kert's backbone truss system.
I'm suspension engineering challenged.
Eric, the axle is in right now, and I think your right, I don't have a lot of up travel right now, let alone with the rest of the vehicle body and parts on the frame. I have crossover, but not hi-steer, and the crossover draglink is maybe 6" below the oil pan (stock 6 qt). The front cover I have is Kert's 3/8" flat back model. It has about 1" clearance between the tierod and the cover at full turn.
I just had the D60 rebuilt, including the new inner seals, and I was thinking those would probably get messed up with welding the tubes to the cast iron, so I wasn't really considering doing that. So I'm thinking it has to go above or below to be effective, and an extension of the cover,
or one of these rings
and make the welded to housing truss plate, bolt to that. It would go on over the existing cover, and have a top flange plate on it like in Kert's backbone truss system.
For proven designs....look at the rear axles of desert racing trucks.
One thing I've observed: If you're going to build a truss, extend it ALL the way to the back of the wheel hubs. If you stop short of that point, you are pretty much going to focus the loads right at the point where the brace ends, and that's where your breakage will occur.
The other factor that I'm sure makes a huge difference is the setup of the bumpstops... the softer you can control the bottoming-out of the suspension the less likely you will be to transfer all that shock into the housing.
Trusses are cool because they give you lots of room for speed holes and dimple-dies!!!
Greg, I have been looking at many of the high speed trucks, and their truss systems are pretty cool, as well as the bumps, and shock setups. Most of the trussed axles I've seen are on fabbed housings, and high dollar machines, (with those cool punched holes in em) and some stock axle applications have used a bar across the bottom from knuckle to knuckle.
I have 6" springs right now, and I plan on using the ford shock towers, and Bilstein 5160's, and was planning on the urethane stops for now at least....believe it or not, I'm still trying to watch my budget
The nitro bumps would be way cool for future high speed whoops, and washboards though. maybe even a little air, and the thought of 700-1000lbs of axle, wheels and tires flying off the ground scares me just a little with what might happen when it bottoms out after such flight takes place. I sure as hell don't want to trash this axle, with what I have into it.
http://www.timbren.com/aeon-double-convolution-springs.htm
There are a couple tricks to setting these up but they will save your old butt from getting beat up to bad
, still haven't put them on my truck but have installed a couple sets for other guys, they are awesome, they act alot like an air bump but have no adjust-ability and have some mounting difficulty as you have to put a ring around the top to keep it from sliding off its mounting spot.
I think I might truss the bottom of the your axle Dave, theres lots of room down there and like you have said you really don't have many rocks. Of course using alot of card board and some time cutting the peices you can make a pretty sweet over the top kind of truss too and keep it fairly low as far as overall height goes. Some trusses I have built only have the flat plate going over the top of the diff. They really only stick up 1/4 inch or so from the highest original point
I have seen the backside of the axle trussed too but it takes some serious welding of the cast and some pretty good pattern making.
I would imagine top or bottom trussing would end up being stronger in the over all scheme of things though
There are a couple tricks to setting these up but they will save your old butt from getting beat up to bad
, still haven't put them on my truck but have installed a couple sets for other guys, they are awesome, they act alot like an air bump but have no adjust-ability and have some mounting difficulty as you have to put a ring around the top to keep it from sliding off its mounting spot. I think I might truss the bottom of the your axle Dave, theres lots of room down there and like you have said you really don't have many rocks. Of course using alot of card board and some time cutting the peices you can make a pretty sweet over the top kind of truss too and keep it fairly low as far as overall height goes. Some trusses I have built only have the flat plate going over the top of the diff. They really only stick up 1/4 inch or so from the highest original point
I have seen the backside of the axle trussed too but it takes some serious welding of the cast and some pretty good pattern making.
I would imagine top or bottom trussing would end up being stronger in the over all scheme of things though
Eric, do those bumps your using bolt on in the stock bump location, or are you making new mounts for them. Also are they lining up under articulation; meaning are they actually damping, or sliding off to the side?
With the truss... I assume, use mild steel, maybe 1/4" for this, as it would just be stressed in tension, and not twist? Just wondering would a lower profile be possible if a higher grade of steel was used?
With the truss... I assume, use mild steel, maybe 1/4" for this, as it would just be stressed in tension, and not twist? Just wondering would a lower profile be possible if a higher grade of steel was used?
When I put a set of timbrens on I line them up......kind of. On a rig that sees alot of everything you set them kind of half way inbetween lining up perfect in articulation and lining up under full bump. I have had to reposition one set to get them to work well. The timbrens you and I would use have a threaded steel peice on them and are very easy to mount if thats all you use. They do in fact deflect to the side like that. You have to mount a round peice that is slightly bigger than the uncompressed width dimension. This piece will vary in length depending on which one you use but usually about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch will work. This will keep them from bowing out to the side under articulation and full bump. You do need to put a fairly large pad for them to hit. In the past I have put a another ring on the bump plate to further prevent them from moving but this doesn't seem all that necessary.
I have never used anything other than mild steel in a truss. The higher the grade of steel (more tensile strength) the thinner you could use. But face it the ol Iron Maiden aint exactly Calista Flockhart. I would say just use mild steel and 1/4 inch. Design is almost more important than grade of steel. Everything that has been said is good advice, taking the truss all the way out etc.
I have never used anything other than mild steel in a truss. The higher the grade of steel (more tensile strength) the thinner you could use. But face it the ol Iron Maiden aint exactly Calista Flockhart. I would say just use mild steel and 1/4 inch. Design is almost more important than grade of steel. Everything that has been said is good advice, taking the truss all the way out etc.
Got my evac can and fresh air supply can back from my welder fab guy. He TIG'd em and they look nicer than I could have done with my MIG.
the fresh air can. Simple with a filtered breather, and each bottom port will go to the small tubing nipples on the valve covers, toward the back of the V.C.
The evac can has two internal baffles in it, and the top port will connect to a PCV then to the base of the carb.
The valve covers with breather/separators toward the front, and the fresh air intake hookup to the rear.
the fresh air can. Simple with a filtered breather, and each bottom port will go to the small tubing nipples on the valve covers, toward the back of the V.C.
The evac can has two internal baffles in it, and the top port will connect to a PCV then to the base of the carb.
The valve covers with breather/separators toward the front, and the fresh air intake hookup to the rear.
I'm trying to finish up some odds & ends to fire the heart of the Iron Maiden for the first time.
I made a couple plates to block off the EGR, and Choke openings....
The plates are .250 aluminum. I'll use some High temp Red form a gasket to seal em to the manifold.
Need some input on the PS pump.
I need to put some fluid in this thing, but how can I hook the lines to circulate the fluid without hooking them to the PS box, or the Hydro boost pump?
I think the threaded fitting on the back is high pressure right?
Right now, I'm mostly concerned with protecting the pump for a break-in of the engine, and not having PS fluid leaking all over.
I made a couple plates to block off the EGR, and Choke openings....
The plates are .250 aluminum. I'll use some High temp Red form a gasket to seal em to the manifold.
Need some input on the PS pump.
I need to put some fluid in this thing, but how can I hook the lines to circulate the fluid without hooking them to the PS box, or the Hydro boost pump?
I think the threaded fitting on the back is high pressure right?
Right now, I'm mostly concerned with protecting the pump for a break-in of the engine, and not having PS fluid leaking all over.
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In addition, I need to source a straight bodied, PCV valve that has a 3/8" barbed fitting at each end, or one end barbed the other 3/8" NPT.
Any ideas what vehicle to look at for this type of PCV valve?
Any ideas what vehicle to look at for this type of PCV valve?
