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That Becool shown above is only $10 more than the Summit, but differs in dimensions somewhat. Not sure if it would be enough to matter. Both have 2 rows of 1" tubes.
The Summit looks more like what is in it now I think.
 
I'll vouch for the Summit line... very nice quality, made by Northern i believe.... and very reasonably priced...

I agree, Northern makes quality pieces, fully welded too, no epoxy at all. Made in Minnesota I believe.
 
With your guys input, I've decided on the Summit 380482 unit mentioned above. Sounds like they have a good track record from some of the members here, and it supposed to be a bolt in. All the dimensions are within an inch of what I have in the truck right now (the original, not the Diesel unit)
 
OK, the radiators from Summit are backordered, but another question comes up. I'll be putting the dual Windstar fan setup on (Thanks to Jekquistk5), and will want to have auto control and manual overide for them. What I need to know right now is do I need a special temp sender for the intake manifold to meet these needs, (just have a stock guage type sender for it right now) or are they controlled from a sender in the system, like in the radiator, or a head.
 
In my opinion the best way to control them is by actual coolant temp in the head or intake, with something like this...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890017/

You can use it as a ground source to turn on the relays (you'll either want a large one or two 30A relays). Just supply the relay with ignition switch power, and the switch will do the rest. You can also install a switch or two to either override and turn them on, or override and turn them off. The thermal switch doesn't care what happens on either side of it (circuit wise). And you don't have to spend $70 for some wires and a relay or two.
 
Thanks Heath....I may be a ways from doing the wiring part on the vehicle, but I should be able to rig something together to get it running anyway.
The switch your talking about to manually control the on/off, would this diagram suffice for that requirement? And I would need to do a separate circuit for each fan right?
I was reading some of the Windstar fan install threads, and a good suggestion was to operate each fan separately and have one default to come on at like 210, and the other be available to be controlled as in the diagram below.

fancontrol.copy.jpg
 
I should maybe get a couple of these also?

der-16763_w.jpg



Brand Derale Cooling Products
Manufacturer's Part Number 16763
Part Type Relays
Product Line Derale Cooling Products Electric Fan Relays
Summit Racing Part Number DER-16763
Amp Rating 30 amps Volts12 V
Wiring Harness Included Yes
Quantity Sold individually.

If you're installing an aftermarket electric fan, then you will need one of these Derale Cooling Products electric fan relays. They feature a heavy-duty 40 amp rating and include a color-coded wiring harness for an easy installation.
Warranty
 
I should maybe get a couple of these also?

der-16763_w.jpg



Brand Derale Cooling Products
Manufacturer's Part Number 16763
Part Type Relays
Product Line Derale Cooling Products Electric Fan Relays
Summit Racing Part Number DER-16763
Amp Rating 30 amps Volts12 V
Wiring Harness Included Yes
Quantity Sold individually.

If you're installing an aftermarket electric fan, then you will need one of these Derale Cooling Products electric fan relays. They feature a heavy-duty 40 amp rating and include a color-coded wiring harness for an easy installation.
Warranty


Thats what I did, but I ended up picking them up from a place called Electronic Connection in canton. $3.99 a piece for the socket, and $2.99 for the 30 amp relay.(1 per fan on the windstars)
 
Thanks Heath....I may be a ways from doing the wiring part on the vehicle, but I should be able to rig something together to get it running anyway.
The switch your talking about to manually control the on/off, would this diagram suffice for that requirement? And I would need to do a separate circuit for each fan right?
I was reading some of the Windstar fan install threads, and a good suggestion was to operate each fan separately and have one default to come on at like 210, and the other be available to be controlled as in the diagram below.

fancontrol.copy.jpg


Also if you put in the optional switch for ground, I would put an interrupt switch for turning the fans off say a quick water crossing. Do this by putting a switch after the ignition power, nothing fancy just a quick on/off switch. Just remember that you have this and don't start tearing **** apart like I did.:zombie5::zombie5:
 
Also if you put in the optional switch for ground, I would put an interrupt switch for turning the fans off say a quick water crossing. Do this by putting a switch after the ignition power, nothing fancy just a quick on/off switch. Just remember that you have this and don't start tearing **** apart like I did.:zombie5::zombie5:

Another idea that might be helpful is to wire a nice bright red warning light on the dash board that only lights up when you manually shut off the fans. This will help remind you to turn them back ON once you're done with the water crossing......knowing myself, I'm sure I'd forget until the radiator cap blew sky high!!!! :doah:


:usaflag:
 
Thanks Heath....I may be a ways from doing the wiring part on the vehicle, but I should be able to rig something together to get it running anyway.
The switch your talking about to manually control the on/off, would this diagram suffice for that requirement? And I would need to do a separate circuit for each fan right?
I was reading some of the Windstar fan install threads, and a good suggestion was to operate each fan separately and have one default to come on at like 210, and the other be available to be controlled as in the diagram below.

fancontrol.copy.jpg

That circuit looks exactly like what I did in my truck, and I just used a 40A breaker with the two studs for the supply wire protection. However, I wouldn't turn them on at 210, I would use the 185 or so turn on. I am assuming you have a 180 thermostat. There is no reason to run that peformance carbed big block at 210. With the fans off the temp will climb quicker than you would think with low speed wheeling.

In my regal I also wired a blue LED by the temp gauge that would turn on when the fans were on, with a diode to prevent the cicuit from feeding itself, just so I knew how often they were working when at the dragstrip. But I found it unnecessary with the truck.
 
Heath, I got those ideas from Lunatics thread, but may go the route of Jess, and Gregs suggestions instead.


JESS and GREG....after reading your two posts, I like those ideas much better...as much of an electrical tard as I am, this would make it much simpler for me to do for me.
 
Heath, I got those ideas from Lunatics thread, but may go the route of Jess, and Gregs suggestions instead.


JESS and GREG....after reading your two posts, I like those ideas much better...as much of an electrical tard as I am, this would make it much simpler for me to do for me.

Zim from what I read they were suggesting the same thing, just adding a cutoff switch in front of the + supply to the relay to force the fans off for water crossings, and a light to warn you that you forced the fans off so you don't forget, which are both good ideas.
 
I must have been reading too much into the Lunatic thread then, because I thought that was something completely different than a simple on/off switch with a warning light.....electard in action right here:screwy:

Anyhow thanks again for the direction fellas':waytogo:

And just a side note....all the new smilies make me :sign18:
 
Another idea that might be helpful is to wire a nice bright red warning light on the dash board that only lights up when you manually shut off the fans. This will help remind you to turn them back ON once you're done with the water crossing......knowing myself, I'm sure I'd forget until the radiator cap blew sky high!!!! :doah:


:usaflag:

I've got an programmable 4"X6" digit LCD display, you just gave me a great use for it now. A message that says "Turn the Focking fans back on Moron" when the switch is in the off position.
 
I've got an programmable 4"X6" digit LCD display, you just gave me a great use for it now. A message that says "Turn the Focking fans back on Moron" when the switch is in the off position.

Don't forget to also wire in a 60-second countdown timer wired to trigger one of those air-powered train horns. That will help you remember also....



:usaflag:
 
Don't forget to also wire in a 60-second countdown timer wired to trigger one of those air-powered train horns. That will help you remember also....



:usaflag:
:haha::haha::haha:, maybe a solenoid activated, temperature triggered, spring loaded hand. Mount it right behind the driver, on the rollbar to slap the sh!t out of you to remember to turn the fans back on. :eek1::eek1::eek1:

JA02.jpg


That would require more wiring...:doah:
 
Well, if you don't like doing electrical stuff, put in an inline thermostat that opens at 195, plumb some hose or tubing up to the bottom of the drivers seat. when that opens up and your sitting on something that's 195 degrees, I think you'll remember to turn the fans back on.
 
:haha::haha::haha:, maybe a solenoid activated, temperature triggered, spring loaded hand. Mount it right behind the driver, on the rollbar to slap the sh!t out of you to remember to turn the fans back on.

Why not just set the hand to flip the fan switch back on? Geez, keep it simple guys. :rolleyes:
 

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