CK5
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That tranny pan looks awesome on there :saweet:


Thats from COAN....I'm not sure who makes it for them, but it fits great (I have 2 of them in use now) and is really stout. It was $135 for pan, fiber type gasket, filter, filter extension w/ O-ring, long filter bolt, 12 point bolt kit w/stainless washers, drain plug w/ gasket.

HPIM1684.jpg
 
It measures 3" from lip to bottom, about the same as the deep truck pan.
 
Picked up my repaired D60 today, and I'm happy with the results.

The repaired kingpin looks great, and if you can get a look up above the U-joint you can see where he welded the new bushing in place, then ground it somewhat flat to the "C". The bushing is about 3/16" thick wall welded top and bottom to the "C".

HPIM1705.jpg


He said he spent about 3 hours on the repair, so for the price of a new "C" he repaired this one. He said he spent some time getting it squared up to bore the new hole.

Then while he had it I had him rebuild the rest of the kingpins too, put new U-joints in the axles, replace the inner axle seals, which required removing the diff., so while he had the diff out, I had him put the Lockright in it, put a master install kit in it, new inner spindle bearings, weld on lower king pin zerk protectors (see pic below), and put a 1410 Ubolt front pinion on. So pretty much everything but the ring/pinion, and the axle shafts have been replaced.

He charged me 5 more hours labor to do all that stuff. Very reasonable I thought.

The list of parts as follows:
Lockright locker from Summit, price matched to $340
1410 Ubolt yoke, master bearing install kit, king pin kits, 2 Spicer solid u joints, spindle seals, spindle bearing kits, inner axle seals (in tube), 2 king pin lower caps.....798.13

In addition I bought the SRW hubs a while back, which included the rotors and all 16 studs, those were about 340. And also a DIY4X flatback cover for say 100 w/ shipping?

So the lowdown for total cost into this front D60 is as follows:

original purchase....................$500
labor for repairs to kingpin........$195
labor to rebuild axle, install locker kit, make zerk protectors,
and clean axle.......................
$325
parts as listed above..............$800
Lockright locker.....................$340
SRW hubs, discs, studs...........$340
DIY4X flatback cover.............$100
Total D60 build cost.............$2600



The axle:

HPIM1706.jpg




The ujoint/axles:

HPIM1703.jpg




The lockright & diff:

HPIM1701.jpg




New 1410 Ubolt yoke:

HPIM1702.jpg




Lower grease zerk protectors:

HPIM1704.jpg
 
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wow! there aren't kidding around here when they say the real spending starts after you buy the dana 60...

again, nice build. very detailed.

side note question- what special tools did you use/need on the th400 build. years back i did a th350 with pretty much a flat screwdriver and snap righ plyers. LOL!
 
sweeet!! that 60 looks alot like mine does with the gray and black. i even painted my spindles like that! looks bitchin for sure!

as for special tools you need a pump aligner thing, basically a really long hose clamp. then a shaft holder-onner/puller-upper, which is a heavy wire wrapped arounda groove the main shaft used to pull it up out of the case. then you can also use vaseline on a few places.
and a flat head screwdriver, and a sharpie is good too. you mark the line up on the center support bolt so you can drop it in straight.
 
*2- 3/8x6" bolts to screw into the pump to pull it out, along with pushing from the pan side.
*A 3/8" 12 pt socket to remove the center support bolt under the valve body.
*A dial indicator is very nice to have to check front and rear selectible thrust washer requirements.
*A .003 round tip feeler guage to help seat the piston seals in their drums.
*A couple clamps tall enough to compress the clutch spring retainers to remove the snap rings, I used a couple of the trigger clamps.
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*There is also a special tool to check the band apply pins. I have been told by a couple local shops that these pins are selected at the factory, and if your not changing the drums the bands apply to, then they will be correct still. Doesn't seem like any of the shops have that tool to check it anyway.
*Some way of holding onto the rear assembly while lowering it into the case....someone here told me about a coat hanger around the rear input shaft. It worked well.
 
I like those lower zerk guard thingies. Just pipe?
 
sweeet!! that 60 looks alot like mine does with the gray and black. i even painted my spindles like that! looks bitchin for sure!

as for special tools you need a pump aligner thing, basically a really long hose clamp. .


Thanks, but I'm not even sure those axleshafts are painted, didn't look that close.

For the pump alignment, I put it in the case and line up the holes in the two halves. A band clamp is probably more precise though.
 
I like those lower zerk guard thingies. Just pipe?

I asked for DOM AJ....I can't really tell though. This place makes driveshafts all day long...they specialize in springs and driveline, no engines, no transmissions. Transfer case, driveshafts, axles, etc. They work on big rig stuff all day.
 
Duh, I meant tube and typed pipe. What I'd ask for too.

That said I've known of a few cages, bumpers, rock rails, and the like made with heavy pipe and they took abuse quite well.
 
I hope its tough enough, I'd hate to hit a rock, and have it fold over and snap the zerk anyway:eek1:
 
Unless you absolutely rammed it into something I bet you'd be okay. Almost bet it'd crack before it folded over that far.
 
I got the 205 apart today, and checked the new input shaft for length.
The old one was quite long, and may be an oddball piece.
It is used with the 4" adapter, and the 6" T400 output.

HPIM1707.jpg



The disassembled case ready for a final bath:

HPIM1708.jpg



The rear output, and front output assemblies:

HPIM1709.jpg



I think I got all the parts right now for putting the units together to make up the doubler assembly.
Now I just need to finish the build on the T400, and the 205, and get them all put together as one unit, and set it aside til I can get the engine put together, and all of it put in the frame for mockup of other stuff like brakelines, fuel line, crossmembers, exhaust, etc, etc, etc.....Can't wait to get the big block back, and get to work on that.
 
Sweet build!

Are you going to dual feed the direct clutches in the TH400? You should, it's pretty much free and you double the clutch apply area in 3rd gear. I see you are installing the 34 element sprag, that's an important one.
What about the torrington bearing on the tailshaft, you can add that for ~$20, it could save your case.
Oh, and make sure you get the HD snap ring to hold the intermediate clutch pack in the case, it'll protect the case on the 1-2 shift.

If you want me to elaborate on any of those let me know.
 
Sweet build!

Are you going to dual feed the direct clutches in the TH400? You should, it's pretty much free and you double the clutch apply area in 3rd gear. I see you are installing the 34 element sprag, that's an important one.
What about the torrington bearing on the tailshaft, you can add that for ~$20, it could save your case.
Oh, and make sure you get the HD snap ring to hold the intermediate clutch pack in the case, it'll protect the case on the 1-2 shift.

If you want me to elaborate on any of those let me know.

Please do,

1) How do you dual feed the direct clutches?
2) My case has the 3 tanged metal thrust plate in the case, and a 4 pronged thrust washer in the end of the output, so how does the torrington save the case?
3) What is the difference in HD snap rings for the int. clutches. Isn't that the .090 snap ring?
 
I talked with ORD some more, and they have figured that the output of the T400 and the input of the 205 that was on it, were not fully engaged as they just aren't long enough to mate up properly. I'll check that when I take the 203 range box back off the T400. The T400 output should have been about 1-1/2" longer than it was to properly engage the 205 input with the 4" adapter that was on it. I'm surprised those two shafts weren't tore up.
 
Hadn't planned on it, I'm staying with the 30 spline front, but going up to a 1350 joint on it, and a 1410 on the D60 end. The rear is going 1350 out, and 1410 at the 14 also.
 

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