Yeah, was going to mention that tRustyK5 put one in his '90. Wasn't exactly easy but didn't seem super hard.
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
I got the spring perches drilled to move the axle forward an inch, then redid the lower shock mounts to be more in line with the axle when it compresses and extends, basically turned the mounts 90*
Then started working on the Timbren bump setups.
Then started working on the Timbren bump setups.
Lower shock mount should be mounted the other way, when it droops its going to bind and bend or break the bolt or shock.
I was thinking the opposite Keith, when the shackle compresses the spring gets longer, and the shock would move slightly backward with the spring as it flattens out. I do agree that the shock will be subject to some sideloading when only one tire gets stuffed into the wheelwell and the other droops.
Am I thinking backwards on this?:
I concur.
Slight hi-jack regarding the tach dash, and that resistor thing. I was able to put my tach dash together using mostly the '90 cluster. The printed circuit was not gonna work for the small fuel gauge in the lower left corner, so I figured out which wires going to the cluster were for the fuel gauge and used bullet connectors. The tach is self contained and has it's own small harness, it uses nothing on the printed circuit. My tach did not work correctly hooked to the TBI distributor until i removed the resistor thingy.
if anyone wants more info or anything, pm me and I'll shoot you some pics, a vid and a link to what I did.
Sorry for the hi-jack Dave.
Rene
yup, unfortunately Dave, I concur too... the arc the axle will move front to back is nothing compared to the pivot needed for articulation... just picture that axle dropped 8 to 10" and what angle it's gonna put that bolt at in relation to the shock...
I've got a set of Kert's shock mounts, the ones that weld to the tube and the C.. to me, they seem ideal..
I've got a set of Kert's shock mounts, the ones that weld to the tube and the C.. to me, they seem ideal..
Not even a hi-jack Rene' I was hoping you'd chime in about the tach setup.
I need to look at the wiring harness' I got and decide which one I need to use now. I got 4 different harness' and I think at least one was for a tach gauge cluster (requiring the small fuel gauge in the corner). What a mess of spagetti to figure out.
Thanks for the schooling guys. My newb shortcomings come to light again.
Keith thanks for noticing that. Glad I only tacked em on.
Thats the good think about these forums,it helps to see things in a different way.
Always good to post pics and ask for others opinions.
I`m learning lots by reading every ones builds.
And I am storing this all in my small brain for future use on my own trucks.
Always good to post pics and ask for others opinions.
I`m learning lots by reading every ones builds.
And I am storing this all in my small brain for future use on my own trucks.
If you get a chance look at one that is compressed or drooped they almost make an arc.
I know I have said this a hundred times Dave but leave those tacked, until you are nearly done with the truck. Good solid tacks but ones that will be fairly easy to remove.
Why? Because you would be amazed at what runs into each other with a tire shoving against a rock and the steering at full lock, with the tire stuffed into the wheelwell. The suspension needs to be cycled again just to make absolutely sure.
Same with the bumps, I know we measured before but just tack on. All of that should be pretty easy to weld once its all back together.
Oh yeah and what everyone else said about the shocks.
Why? Because you would be amazed at what runs into each other with a tire shoving against a rock and the steering at full lock, with the tire stuffed into the wheelwell. The suspension needs to be cycled again just to make absolutely sure.
Same with the bumps, I know we measured before but just tack on. All of that should be pretty easy to weld once its all back together.
Oh yeah and what everyone else said about the shocks.
I'll surf for some pics, and thanks again Keith.
I know I have said this a hundred times Dave but leave those tacked, until you are nearly done with the truck. Good solid tacks but ones that will be fairly easy to remove.
Why? Because you would be amazed at what runs into each other with a tire shoving against a rock and the steering at full lock, with the tire stuffed into the wheelwell. The suspension needs to be cycled again just to make absolutely sure.
Same with the bumps, I know we measured before but just tack on. All of that should be pretty easy to weld once its all back together.
Oh yeah and what everyone else said about the shocks.
I will get them set back the other way, and tack em, then do the bumps and tack em, then put the big tires on and try to stuff em in the wheelwell one more time.
thanks for the input guys.
Your shocks appear to be doing better than your drive shaft in that picture.
Martin
Martin
I only see one shock
It's looking good dave, Cant wait to see the body when you get it back. Wish I could make BB11 to see it in action.
By the way, you got me hooked
I'm going to the drags in Indianapolis labor day weekend and takin my son along
It's looking good dave
, Cant wait to see the body when you get it back. Wish I could make BB11 to see it in action. By the way, you got me hooked
I'm going to the drags in Indianapolis labor day weekend and takin my son along
It's looking good dave
By the way, you got me hooked
Aren't you real close to Cordova dragway? I've been down that track a few times, not sure if they have any national events there, but I am sure they have a few big race days don't they? I still get the Cordova flyers in the mail here in MI yet.
Got the shock mounts turned around, and made them up on the knuckle a little too, like Kerts (cept not as good, but I did use his 90* gussets)
Also worked on a Timbren bump for the front...The blue tape is where the bump is fully compressed. I have it set to be fully compressed with a little less than an inch of shock travel left.
Also worked on a Timbren bump for the front...The blue tape is where the bump is fully compressed. I have it set to be fully compressed with a little less than an inch of shock travel left.
Yeah I'm only about 15 or 20 miles from cordova, but the only time a top fuel runs down that track is exibition runs during the world series
. Unfortunetly for me I work every year during it too I dont care to see 10 second cars, I want topfuel and nitro funny cars.Those shock mounts look alot better turned dave
I heard of those bump stops on here before but never seen 'em. I may have to look into those
Good work Dave. That last picture makes your u-bolts look about as big as your primary tubes 
, something is wrong there!
And those timbrens are smaller diameter than I was expecting, hopefully they work well. It looks like an air bump from your mounting tube up. How do they attach, a threaded stud out the top? That tube looks like it would be a nice rain gauge, except if you plug it, can you get the bumps off to replace them? Maybe you drilled and tapped the bottom plate? Or welded a nut on top of it?
And it looks like there is dust on the leaf springs and axle housing, you better get the vacuum out!
, something is wrong there! And those timbrens are smaller diameter than I was expecting, hopefully they work well. It looks like an air bump from your mounting tube up. How do they attach, a threaded stud out the top? That tube looks like it would be a nice rain gauge, except if you plug it, can you get the bumps off to replace them? Maybe you drilled and tapped the bottom plate? Or welded a nut on top of it?
And it looks like there is dust on the leaf springs and axle housing, you better get the vacuum out!
If your not having any problems with them Howdiy, I should be good then.My shocks seems to be doing fine mounted like this
But with them mounted the other way may be better
My angles NOW are more inline with the axle moving in an arc from top to bottom, rather than front to back. the top may have some stress on it, but a grade 8 bolt on those mounting tabs should be fine. The bushing might not like it, but it would only be short durations it would be distorted.
thanks for posting a pic of your setup....gives me a couple more ideas!
Always has to be a critic
I only see one shock
It's looking good dave
By the way, you got me hooked
Ya know Rick, I think anyone who hasn't seen a Nitro car, or even if its been a long time, would be blown away by seeing them in person....you just can't believe the awesomeness until you experience it. I've been going to the drags since 73, and am still in awe of the sheer power those engines produce out of 500ci.
I think its awesome your taking your son to the big GO.....it will be a clusterfuk down there though. going for a day or a few?
Yeah I'm only about 15 or 20 miles from cordova, but the only time a top fuel runs down that track is exibition runs during the world series
Those shock mounts look alot better turned dave
Good work Dave. That last picture makes your u-bolts look about as big as your primary tubes
And those timbrens are smaller diameter than I was expecting, hopefully they work well. It looks like an air bump from your mounting tube up. How do they attach, a threaded stud out the top? That tube looks like it would be a nice rain gauge, except if you plug it, can you get the bumps off to replace them? Maybe you drilled and tapped the bottom plate? Or welded a nut on top of it?
And it looks like there is dust on the leaf springs and axle housing, you better get the vacuum out!
Heath, these bumps are slightly more capacity (1000lbs) than some Jeep guys run on Pirate, and they are really happy with their setups. I talked with a guy at Timbren distributor (forget who now) but we decided the 4400lb. bump load would be good for my application all around.
Here is a video of installation:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbgYTvkfegc&feature=related
And a pirate link:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-347598.html
And Heath I don't know why, but I was considering washing the frame/drivetrain before putting the body back on....WTF is wrong with me?
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Rene' I'd like a pic if you got one handy....my printed circuit for the tach cluster has been spliced once already, and I have a good one for a non tach gauge cluster. If I could do like you did, and run wires over to the small fuel gauge that might be a good option to have.
