CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Im more concerned with the trans than the rearend!
Ive got another 14BFF.....Its a later model ribbed housing, so maybe 88 or newer? The housing in the truck is a 79.
The smaller straddle bearing looks to be the same size in both housings.

My questions about building that one are:

1) Will the pinion and differential from the 79 bolt into the newer housing?
2) Will the 79 hubs fit the spindles of the newer housing?
3) Not sure on the overall wheel mounting width, but the spring perches are 49.5 on the newer housing, is that a van housing or a 92 and up truck?
4) Is it too wide for my Blazer?
 
14ff be just fine swapping all its guts over . the 85 if i recall was a year for a super rare odd ball 3rd support bearing size and no real aftermarket support for the bearing .

so just a housing only swap if its both drum brake pressed on the back of the hub style then its a swap over no problem . if the 14ff has pop off drums then NO the spindle size is different for the hubs and lots of the stuff wont swap for hubs and brakes you have now .

49.5" spring pad width might just be a van width . there 70" WMS to WMS and the closest to the dana 60 WMS to WMS of 69" . i swapped one under the PLOW MACHINE build from the old STUBBY build i parted .
 
Got the spindle all reconditioned...filed down the inside of the tube so the axle shaft splines would fit through my weld booger.
Then washed it out with mineral spirits then brake cleaner....clean as a whistle...whatever that means?
The finished thickness is about .090 minimum....the good side measures .080

EE90C825-802C-42A0-A16B-EC5DFD701C8B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Then put the ring and pinion back in, set the backlash to .006, and checked the gear pattern using the same pinion shim I took out...pattern sucks, I guess Ill have to go searching for my pack of shims if I’m reading it right I need to add more?

3008CF3D-B950-44E4-90C6-C634E1953F9B.jpeg
 
Correct me if I’m wrong, but the two areas that the hub bearings ride on are at .250 or more thick, and support the entire weight of the rear of the vehicle being a full float type.
An opinion of the threaded area shown in my pic repair (which is all outboard of the bearing race surface on the spindle), is to provide a surface to attach the spindle bearing flat washer, nuts and lock, and it requires no support duties of the weight on the axle right?

29F60780-05DC-4918-930A-253C621B0AB5.jpeg

91E30E53-80CC-4F02-87B4-224BB1603CC3.jpeg

28448652-DE80-4439-93D3-0FC814D58C8F.jpeg
 
Nice piece, I have a spare axle, and I think I would go that route before buying a spindle.
 
Found my shims, got a few patterns, I like the last one best...thoughts?

first pic. .010 backlash and .010 pinion
Second. .007 BL and .010 pinion
Third .010. and .028
1B107EC6-3DAA-46D1-BCC4-4D2FE6E30919.jpeg

8E0420EC-B678-48B6-B8F0-827F4BBB51B7.jpeg

55241968-A615-4D89-9B37-1B1203D65649.jpeg
 
Chatting w Eric about this...trying to get the best of both sides.

.010 BL and .028 shim, the coast side pattern looks wrong...

4F116CD7-6F2B-44CF-B050-4DA017E9962F.jpeg

27934184-6720-4EAB-9D90-8C00AD9C24A1.jpeg
 
Correct me if I’m wrong, but the two areas that the hub bearings ride on are at .250 or more thick, and support the entire weight of the rear of the vehicle being a full float type.
An opinion of the threaded area shown in my pic repair (which is all outboard of the bearing race surface on the spindle), is to provide a surface to attach the spindle bearing flat washer, nuts and lock, and it requires no support duties of the weight on the axle right?

View attachment 334121

View attachment 334122

View attachment 334123
As long as the threads are strong enough to keep the bearing in place, yeah you are fine, the weight is on the thick area which is fine
 
Cool!
What’s next? I know you got a list. ;)
still got some brackets to make for the trans lines, fill all the fluids Ive drained, then it will move again under power...
THEN:

Steering box rebuild
Steering column rebuild
Fix fuel guage and tach
Replace distributor
Replace wiper switch
Fix windshield defroster/fan circuit
Replace windshield
Build drop down spare tire mount
Organize rear compartment area for equipment mounting
Build mirror mounting for tube doors, inside rear view mirror
Built Hi-lift mount
Fire extinguisher mounts
Auxiliary lighting
Center console upgrades

BUT
All of those will wait for a bit...the Toyota needs service, and the Duramax is goin on the lift after that...making a trip to Kerts and Kansas on 23rd of April
 
still got some brackets to make for the trans lines, fill all the fluids Ive drained, then it will move again under power...
THEN:

Steering box rebuild
Steering column rebuild
Fix fuel guage and tach
Replace distributor
Replace wiper switch
Fix windshield defroster/fan circuit
Replace windshield
Build drop down spare tire mount
Organize rear compartment area for equipment mounting
Build mirror mounting for tube doors, inside rear view mirror
Built Hi-lift mount
Fire extinguisher mounts
Auxiliary lighting
Center console upgrades

BUT
All of those will wait for a bit...the Toyota needs service, and the Duramax is goin on the lift after that...making a trip to Kerts and Kansas on 23rd of April

Cool!
Not a bad list... nothing that is so serious you can’t play with it. :waytogo:
 
Top Bottom