CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Got some hardware from McMaster to suit me for the combination of backbone truss plate, Lubelocker gaskets and diff cover. I used 4 studs for alignment, then new bolts and nuts to hold it all together.
Last edited:
Also chewed up a few hours making up some brackets to hold the transmission lines. I used a couple of Jegs hose separators and modified them by drilling them out to fit a 1/4-20 allen head screw flush with the separators and bolt to the brackets too. Put some insulation and wiring flexible conduit on to protect them from heat and abrasions.
Not sure if you've done one before or not, but I learned the hard way that the lower output shaft bearing and seal will go way farther in than they need to. And you can't pull/push it back down without messing it up.
I'll try and find the video I used and link it. But after you push the piston back in, you get it in to where the holes lineup with the top cap opening, and push them down in one at a time until you have like 3 or 4 left. Then grease both halves of the split tube that the balls to through and put the halves together. The grease holds them in while you install that part.
... I gotta buy a new kit 
Cleaned, painted, reassembled and installed.
Feels good, on the bench, it seems like the preload was heavy even with no load, but the new seals felt tight when reinstalling the sector shaft. I put a small vise grip on it and it turn easy and smooth.
Filled the system w fluid, and cycled multiple times w/o engine running. Puked some in the floor. Filled it again and will let sit overnight then use PSC’s procedure for bleeding.
Will try to finish it up tomorrow.
Feels good, on the bench, it seems like the preload was heavy even with no load, but the new seals felt tight when reinstalling the sector shaft. I put a small vise grip on it and it turn easy and smooth.
Filled the system w fluid, and cycled multiple times w/o engine running. Puked some in the floor. Filled it again and will let sit overnight then use PSC’s procedure for bleeding.
Will try to finish it up tomorrow.
I’ll have to watch that one day. That vid should be good for Gm guys and some of us Dodge guys too.
I think a guy could have decent side business if you got good at fixing them?
Agreed Dean...a couple box specific tools would help as well. I figured I would take a shot at a 28$ kit, instead of a $200+ rebuilt box. I’m not sure where you could source a new sector shaft and piston, or other hard parts if needed. One video I watched, the guy bores the sector shaft and installs a bushing and burnishes it before installing a new bearing....that was for the Dodge boxes, he says the Cummins weight is hard on them.
Good point on the replacement parts. But even if a guy had a good understanding of how to adjust and reseal them would be helpful. I know lots of guys will toss a box before resealing the sector shaft seal.
Finished bleeding the steering system....filled up the trans w fluid and The Maiden moves on her own again!
Made a quick bracket to hold the new longer shifter cable away from the exhaust. Test drive was fulfilling!
Made a quick bracket to hold the new longer shifter cable away from the exhaust. Test drive was fulfilling!
Might want to wrap that cable with a little loom or something to keep it from chafing over time.
i love old sections of cut off rubber hose just to use to cover cables and lines like this . few good zip ties hold them snug to the line or cable to protect .
Well, I killed the Yellowtop by leaving the key on for 2 months. Tried to bring it back by charging a good battery in tandem with the yellowtop, screwed up and left it on 12a charge overnight. Was only supposed to be for an hour, then trickle charged. It charged up, but just wouldn't hold the charge.
So I ordered a new Yellowtop from Chrome battery...310 to the door. This new one fits the same bottom retainer plate I had Kert cut out to fit the footprint of the Yellowtop design. Hopefully this one will last as long as the original one that I got 10 yrs out of, and my Redtop is still performing well in my 99-2500. Its 10 yrs old as well. I like that this new one has terminal screw posts to attach my cable ends directly to, instead of having to use the top post to screw on terminal adapters.
Put the new battery in place, and went for a romp through my short trail course...the grandson loved it!
So I ordered a new Yellowtop from Chrome battery...310 to the door. This new one fits the same bottom retainer plate I had Kert cut out to fit the footprint of the Yellowtop design. Hopefully this one will last as long as the original one that I got 10 yrs out of, and my Redtop is still performing well in my 99-2500. Its 10 yrs old as well. I like that this new one has terminal screw posts to attach my cable ends directly to, instead of having to use the top post to screw on terminal adapters.
Put the new battery in place, and went for a romp through my short trail course...the grandson loved it!
