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'78 K20 - RootBreaker from 1990 - nov 2025 8.1L not runnin

so while waiting for the metering block to come in.. Decided to address my dizzy up against my firewall. I think when I went in the mud hole.. my cab shifted (bolts are super tight) and pushed on the dizzy making the rotor go round and round hitting it.

My initial was to remove cap/rotor since carb is out and whale on the cab and bend it back BUT...

history time..
years ago.. travel back to 1997... NJ was a stickler for lift laws but if truck was done right you could run 44's legally and with 53's now in civilians reach.. I set my eyes on lifting my truck from 33s.

There was a local guy that lifted trucks and decided to use him so it would be done right and go through inspection. I wanted an 8" lift and 38's which is what NJ was changing their lift laws to. He talked me into a supposed great deal on 12" leafs. He screwed me over every which way but that is a different story. He was supposed to take 3 weeks to get the truck done so I could then drop a motor in it, rockwells and 53's and go through inspection but too long and laws changed. I had to lower the truck (rear leafs are still the 12" swamp runners with no block and front is on 6" rough country but when he lifted the truck he put a 2" drop xfer case kit in. Well that is great that it gives a better rear and front dshaft angle; however it put my dizzy up against my firewall...

and that is why I believe my rotor broke. anyway.. just went out and removed it... yup now I can fit my hand behind dizzy and even wiggle it some. tough to tell in pic..

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Transfer case drops are the devil. Not only can they be hard on the frame but they make the front driveshaft angle worse. The rear driveshaft is the only winner while everything else suffers.
 
So with xfer case drop gone... rear 2 piece dshaft still has bearing lowered..wonder how this is gonna ride...20171028_075430.jpg
 
Think I’d be rolling that rear pinion up though
 
Forgot about this thread. Seems my rear leafs are 9.5" with full weight under them.

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-to-measure-leaf-springs.175507/

Just went out... string from eye to eye and measure down to bottom of pack is 9.5" with full weight of truck resting on it.

Ground to top of well is 44.5" and front is 45.75".. maybe ord flip 2in level me out...
 
I'm cornfoosed on what you are trying to do...
 
I'm cornfoosed on what you are trying to do...

posted in the 11 year old thread.. LOL

I'm contemplating lifting my truck up more. If I go with shackle flip that is great... however I'm thinking of going with leafs instead... so I know I have 6" up front.. so I can go 8" for 2 more inches... they don't make 10" so it is either 8" or 12" and 12 is just too much as I have had that before....

so step 1.. figure out what I have.. if I had 6" in back I CAN get 8" rear... simple.. figure out what you have first..

ive been thinking of getting 39.5 boggers or 42's and they will not fit on what I have now so trying to go back and figure out what I have...
that's all simple... easy peasy...
 
I thought standard cab, long bed 4wd’s had a 1 pc rear shaft?? For example, CUCV’s do.
 
Well if you have factory mounting points for the rear springs, and stock shackles and the whole bit...

Then find a similarly equipped truck that has factory springs. (No lift)

Then measure the distance between the top of the main leaf and the bottom of the frame on both trucks. The difference will be your spring lift, +/- half an inch...
 
Tonight was halloween..
Ok i went to work then college...
Then neighbors to drink and no mor tricker treaters... walked in door and i found goodies. Installed and no more leaks!!! Tmorrow i need gas then tune... woooot

Oh new granite counter too

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