Yeah, I'd be all over that for my C10. Heck even tho it's a Chevy, I'd probably rock the GMC version!
CK5
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I couldn’t bring myself to spend the money on a fancy one but i do think this is almost necessary , and with towing the trailer … a must. I also plan on putting some helper air bags in the rear but that’s for another time. This cpp kit was cheap and It’s not hollow chromoly but I’m sure it’ll be a great improvement. I didn’t think this truck came with a Sway bar but It seems like it did due to the holes in the frame already and the two holes in the lower control arms. This set up is meant to be used with end links and not the saddle bushing like OE. I decided to make some brackets for the lower control arms. I bent two brackets out of 1/8 x1.5 flat stock . I can pick up one of the factory holes for a bolt and also weld it on. I made a template to have two little gussets on either side to prevent deflection on the tab. I put the sway bar in a good position and then made the brackets to ensure the bolt will line up as plumb as possible to the control arm bracket.
started to clean up the firewall after I got the fenders off. I can’t really scrape or grind this black crud off and prep for paint while the trucks inside since I have too many parts that wouldn’t appreciate that, but the weather is getting nicer so I think I should be able to push it outside and do all that work in natures paint booth.
I also wanted to get an afr gauge in my other collector of the passenger side bank. One reason is to have more information on those cylinders exhaust, another is to have a backup if the Holley one dies and go real lean/rich.. This aem gauge is supposed to output a 5v signal I believe which can be used for data logging etc. ..will it work with the Holley? no idea yet but I’ll read into it when I can.
I also knocked out the steering shaft and going to buy an Xj one and maybe a new steering box…but probably not.
started to clean up the firewall after I got the fenders off. I can’t really scrape or grind this black crud off and prep for paint while the trucks inside since I have too many parts that wouldn’t appreciate that, but the weather is getting nicer so I think I should be able to push it outside and do all that work in natures paint booth.
I also wanted to get an afr gauge in my other collector of the passenger side bank. One reason is to have more information on those cylinders exhaust, another is to have a backup if the Holley one dies and go real lean/rich.. This aem gauge is supposed to output a 5v signal I believe which can be used for data logging etc. ..will it work with the Holley? no idea yet but I’ll read into it when I can.
I also knocked out the steering shaft and going to buy an Xj one and maybe a new steering box…but probably not.
Well fatherhoods absolutely kicking my ass along, with work and maintaining the property…
BUT…
I got a good chunk of the valvebody started, along with the sonnax performance kit. Took me awhile to get a grip on things I had laid out 4 months ago.. but I got there. Washed the valvebody with acetone and started assembly the pieces. I washed them as they went in with a synth brush and acetone. It appears I took out quite a lot of valves that don’t seem to get mentioned much online, so I’m sure glad I have this thread to confirm orientation and position.
I have one valve left to put in which is the TCC valve and spring from the sonnax part. I need to verify if the bore is worn out or not, if so there’s a sonnax kit with a reamer and oversized valve.. I think this one should be alright though.
Although the 1-2 and 3-4 shift solenoids are cheap enough , but it’s so easy for the money to add up… I decided to test them and re install. First test I found, had me activate the solenoids with a 9v battery and listen for the distinct open and closing noise, and that checked out. Next was to ohm them out. It seems gm says 20-30 ohms but some people seem to say 20-25 is preferred. One of mine read 20 .3 I think and the other 19.9. I figured I’d try and re use them. As for the pressure switch that tells the pcm what gear is selected, the kit came with new gasket rings for them but there seems to be a plastic film and some debris under. I’m going to see if I can just flush it out in the parts washer or something.
The black valve and new spring are the upgraded sonnax parts compared to the OE on top.
The kit comes with a rounded shim which is placed in the bore to take up space against the wall of the valvebody and against the spring and valve. I used a feeler gauge to push the spring back.
The kit came with all new metal pinless accumulators, and some plastic check balls, and 2 steel balls to insert into one of the pin bores that isn’t a blind hole. It states to pean a stake in the bore after inserting them.
I drilled out the separator plate to .093 and 0.52 in the holes specified and gave it a once over with a fine 3M nylok brush type thingy. The sonnax kit wants me to peen in the PMW hole in the separator plate, with a supplied aluminum plug and 1/16 hole drilled prior. Also there are a few spots where the checkball obviously sits, that overtime depress and form a little ridge on the opposing side of the plate, gently tapped it with a body hammer to smoothen it out.
I left the PWM/EC3 modification to last because i wanted to be sure that id want too, before i close up the hole in the plate. It seems to be for partial slip in the torque converter from factory which many higher perfomance and aftermarket ones only have on/off. It states unless you know you have partial slip material in the torque converter this modification is recommended.
After going through i dont know how many garbage bags, using one everytime i wrapped these parts, i decided to just buy a roll of film for wrapping parts better and without so much waste.
BUT…
I got a good chunk of the valvebody started, along with the sonnax performance kit. Took me awhile to get a grip on things I had laid out 4 months ago.. but I got there. Washed the valvebody with acetone and started assembly the pieces. I washed them as they went in with a synth brush and acetone. It appears I took out quite a lot of valves that don’t seem to get mentioned much online, so I’m sure glad I have this thread to confirm orientation and position.
I have one valve left to put in which is the TCC valve and spring from the sonnax part. I need to verify if the bore is worn out or not, if so there’s a sonnax kit with a reamer and oversized valve.. I think this one should be alright though.
Although the 1-2 and 3-4 shift solenoids are cheap enough , but it’s so easy for the money to add up… I decided to test them and re install. First test I found, had me activate the solenoids with a 9v battery and listen for the distinct open and closing noise, and that checked out. Next was to ohm them out. It seems gm says 20-30 ohms but some people seem to say 20-25 is preferred. One of mine read 20 .3 I think and the other 19.9. I figured I’d try and re use them. As for the pressure switch that tells the pcm what gear is selected, the kit came with new gasket rings for them but there seems to be a plastic film and some debris under. I’m going to see if I can just flush it out in the parts washer or something.
The black valve and new spring are the upgraded sonnax parts compared to the OE on top.
The kit comes with a rounded shim which is placed in the bore to take up space against the wall of the valvebody and against the spring and valve. I used a feeler gauge to push the spring back.
The kit came with all new metal pinless accumulators, and some plastic check balls, and 2 steel balls to insert into one of the pin bores that isn’t a blind hole. It states to pean a stake in the bore after inserting them.
I drilled out the separator plate to .093 and 0.52 in the holes specified and gave it a once over with a fine 3M nylok brush type thingy. The sonnax kit wants me to peen in the PMW hole in the separator plate, with a supplied aluminum plug and 1/16 hole drilled prior. Also there are a few spots where the checkball obviously sits, that overtime depress and form a little ridge on the opposing side of the plate, gently tapped it with a body hammer to smoothen it out.
I left the PWM/EC3 modification to last because i wanted to be sure that id want too, before i close up the hole in the plate. It seems to be for partial slip in the torque converter from factory which many higher perfomance and aftermarket ones only have on/off. It states unless you know you have partial slip material in the torque converter this modification is recommended.
After going through i dont know how many garbage bags, using one everytime i wrapped these parts, i decided to just buy a roll of film for wrapping parts better and without so much waste.
Shop floor fix of the day :
The Subaru came with this broken tab on the purge solenoid on the fuel system and I’ve noticed pressure in the system when I undo the gas cap. Maybe my gas cap is busted too if it’s a vented one. Either way I found a barbed irrigation fitting on the floor and cut the end off, drilled out the solenoid casing to the same size and then glued it in place..
The Subaru came with this broken tab on the purge solenoid on the fuel system and I’ve noticed pressure in the system when I undo the gas cap. Maybe my gas cap is busted too if it’s a vented one. Either way I found a barbed irrigation fitting on the floor and cut the end off, drilled out the solenoid casing to the same size and then glued it in place..
Continuing on with the valve body.
Got the accumulator pistons in, steel balls driven into the bore and staked the two bores that arent blind, out of the 3 accumulator pistons. I got the aluminum plug peened into the seperator plate, and the TCC valve inserted. I picked up a Sonnax super hold 4th servo, as well as their "corvette" ratio 2nd gear servo. I wanted to pony up for the super hold 2nd gear servo but considering this is a koo koo clock of hopes and dreams, i figured id save some money. I was also having some mixed readings while ohming out the pressure switch so i just bought a new one since it wasnt expensive.
(3/16 punch fits almost dead nuts inside the pin bores of the accumulators )
( after staking the bores i took my steel pick and made sure any small pieces of semi attached debris could be removed, to ensure they didnt end up scoring the bore or stuck in the transmission somewhere )
This bore in the case side is blind and requires no steel ball(s) to be driven into the bore of the removed pin.
Got the accumulator pistons in, steel balls driven into the bore and staked the two bores that arent blind, out of the 3 accumulator pistons. I got the aluminum plug peened into the seperator plate, and the TCC valve inserted. I picked up a Sonnax super hold 4th servo, as well as their "corvette" ratio 2nd gear servo. I wanted to pony up for the super hold 2nd gear servo but considering this is a koo koo clock of hopes and dreams, i figured id save some money. I was also having some mixed readings while ohming out the pressure switch so i just bought a new one since it wasnt expensive.
(3/16 punch fits almost dead nuts inside the pin bores of the accumulators )
( after staking the bores i took my steel pick and made sure any small pieces of semi attached debris could be removed, to ensure they didnt end up scoring the bore or stuck in the transmission somewhere )
This bore in the case side is blind and requires no steel ball(s) to be driven into the bore of the removed pin.
I’m unsure of the days passing as a new parent 
….So here’s some things I never got around to posting
Assembled the valve body and installed onto case with a new pressure switch. Re installed the manual shift valve and parking pawl assembly. I didn’t know you were supposed to get the bar inserted into the shift valve before torquing the valve body down… good thing I had to change the case shaft seal anyway so I lucked out with disassembling the linkage and got it hooked up.
I gotta give it to sonnax for just ditching the servo cover all together and just incorporating it into the part. I purchased their 4th gear super hood servo and their *corvette ratio 2nd gear (.74).
I’m supposed to have .75-1.25 travel on the servo pin. It says to grind the head of the pin down to get what you need for travel. With the gauge set up I was getting .72-73, so I’ll need to take some material off the end of the pin that engages the band. Sonnax says to use the inside contour of a 3/8ths washer cut in half, to keep the right tip on the pin. I will measure the pin length when I remove this and remove what is needed. Then re install with o rings and d rings installed.
….So here’s some things I never got around to posting Assembled the valve body and installed onto case with a new pressure switch. Re installed the manual shift valve and parking pawl assembly. I didn’t know you were supposed to get the bar inserted into the shift valve before torquing the valve body down… good thing I had to change the case shaft seal anyway so I lucked out with disassembling the linkage and got it hooked up.
I gotta give it to sonnax for just ditching the servo cover all together and just incorporating it into the part. I purchased their 4th gear super hood servo and their *corvette ratio 2nd gear (.74).
I’m supposed to have .75-1.25 travel on the servo pin. It says to grind the head of the pin down to get what you need for travel. With the gauge set up I was getting .72-73, so I’ll need to take some material off the end of the pin that engages the band. Sonnax says to use the inside contour of a 3/8ths washer cut in half, to keep the right tip on the pin. I will measure the pin length when I remove this and remove what is needed. Then re install with o rings and d rings installed.
It’s all magic to me… it I like watching the progress. 
It’s all magic to me… it I like watching the progress.
It’s still mangled magic to me too..
I havent gotten around to having a good enough chunk of time to complete shaving some end off the servo pin.. but i did manage to get the pan and bellhousing on. I was originally going to use the pan off the donor because it had a drain plug in it, but after time i realized the drain is elevated off the bottom of the pan to recess the bolt head i imagine.. but this leaves any friction material or whatever.. sitting on the bottom even after a drain. Id also have to weld a new bung in and well, time is that precious i dont feel up to it for the advantage of a drain. Contemplating putting a drain in sideways at the bottom of the pan. Keeps the bolt head off the bottom of the pan and would allow for more fluid to drain off the bottom, worst case atleast you could shine a pen light in there and take a look, where as the OE one youd just be staring at the valve body.
anyone know if i can shave off these two stubs that stick out of the case. I cant seem to think they are of any purpose for the internals?
anyone know if i can shave off these two stubs that stick out of the case. I cant seem to think they are of any purpose for the internals?
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I would avoid cutting it if you can, the cast aluminum is not strong material to behind l begin with. Cutting it down will create stress risers and a point for a crack to start.
regarding the drain plug. My take is the drain isn't there to avoid dropping the pan, it's only there to make the job less messy. Anytime the fluid is coming out the pan should come off, inspect for debris, give it a thorough clean, add a new filter etc etc.
yea good thought, that seems to make perfect sense to me. I dont know if i will need to, but to mount this in the middle of the case id have to cut one diagonally i think. I havent gotten around to measuring and marking the floor for mid and rear mount locations but i do have ideas of building a little roll cage for a baby seat mount over, or instead of the console...so i can keep buckets and have 3 seats so stabbing it in the console area would screw me later on possibly
I agree, ill just go the easiest route and leave it alone. its not too hard to drop the pan a bit and let the fluid flow out.
I could propbably get away with modifying the mount instead, as it will see alot less stress than the transmission case.
I was getting ready to say the same thing.
I put a drain on all mine for the same reason.
Test fit the converter and got it fully seated. I can now toss a straight edge on the bellhousing and measure how far back the mounting bolt flanges are, and then measure how much the flex plate sticks out. I want to ensure I have the proper clearance (.6mm*) for growth as the converter spins ect..
The stall is from a local shop/buddy who made this one around 22-2400 stall.
The stall is from a local shop/buddy who made this one around 22-2400 stall.
