'79 K10 Step Side Rusty Rex

[CharlesC83]

Off work for a while in between jobs. So the work will begin. I have enough fire wood and it’s cold as shit. But I’ve got this thing in my little garage. Here’s the update pics.

Engine runs now. Haven’t road tested the truck yet. Just started and try to feel the clutch. The weather is super shitty here and there is a lot of work left on this thing. Windstar fans are wired and work good.

 

[CharlesC83]

The fans are controlled by my pcm. I just did a manual off, and manual on setup with the automatic function.

 

[CharlesC83]

More stuff is happening, beginning to science the shifters. I’m tired for today. But I’ll probably get rolling tomorrow on this some more. Lots of look, test, fit, cut, test. Mine will hopefully work well when done.

 

[CharlesC83]

Some more progress today. My JB fab 4wd twin stick feels good on the bracket. Started on the magnum shifter. Bending that shifter with my hand held mapp and propane torch was a pita.

And a few shots of my transfer case and magnum.

 

[CharlesC83]

I love this truck, but i'm glad it isn't a "nice" truck. Not having to be nervous punching extra holes in the cab for this stuff doesnt bother me. I hole sawed an access hole for the magnum shift arm connection. I hope this thing drives well. And then im gonna have to learn more with my HP tuner for getting my "tune" right. I had to re-drill that advanced adapters shifter bracket. I actually think the twin stick shifter puts less strain on the bracket than a single stick would. Mine doesnt really flex at all using it.

I still have my rear disc brake conversion here to do. My 13 bolt shave rear cover. And ORD hydraulic parking brake kit. And bed mounted fuel tank. And I removed the KC lights from the roof to the front bumper in place of the corny baja lights.

 

[CharlesC83]

Transmission tunnel and shifters are in. The vent for the transfer case, magnum, and transmission is run up to the engine bay up high as well.

 

[CharlesC83]

Got rolling on the rear axle. Stopped for the day. Pulled the rear overload and 2 degree shim. Didn’t need either in there anymore.

 

[kennyw]

@Polymath is looking for an ebrake lever for a 14FF.

 

[Desert_K5]

What all you have going on in the NP205? I haven't read thru the thread.

 

[CharlesC83]

What all you have going on in the NP205? I haven't read thru the thread.

The 205, it has the ORD magnum input. NFW fab billet covers. Jb fab shift rails, and adjustable detent kit. And it has a gm speed sensor kit from behemoth drivetrain.

 

[Desert_K5]

The 205, it has the ORD magnum input. NFW fab billet covers. Jb fab shift rails, and adjustable detent kit. And it has a gm speed sensor kit from behemoth drivetrain.

Bad ass rig all around! It makes me miss my step side. They're harder to find otherwise I'd have one again. (this is true about all squares I've had, I'd have the back 40 filled up!) lol

 

[kennyw]

this is true about all squares I've had, I'd have the back 40 filled up!) lol

You just need to know where to look. If i didn't part them out or sell a few, I would have 5 acres full of squarebody trucks after living here 5 years.

 

[CharlesC83]

Did the 13 bolt cover today. Went with my favorite electric green engine paint. And the old misfits skull stencil. I welded the little bit of bolt hole shut, I did pre/post heat the weld it was a very small amount. I don’t like to weld cast anything, but it looked decent and no cracking

 

[Chickntrk]

I always thought the 13 bolt mod required welding a new bottom on the diff, that’s what always steered me away….

 

[CharlesC83]

I always thought the 13 bolt mod required welding a new bottom on the diff, that’s what always steered me away….

Depends on which setup you buy. This one doesn’t give as much extra clearance. But doesn’t need a weld on plate or machining the ring gear.

Shaved 14 Bolt Conversion to 13 Bolt Diff Cover

Shaved 14 Bolt to 13 Bolt Diff Cover – Motobilt's heavy-duty, precision-cut steel cover enhances ground clearance and durability for off-road performance.

motobilt.com

 

[Chickntrk]

I may have to do this, thanks for the link!

 

[CharlesC83]

Installed the E-locker today. It went really well. Same side shims and new bearings and the backlash was perfect. My lockers in my Jeep both needed different shims. I felt lucky today.

The new chromoly axle shafts are now in and 35 spline inner and outer with the Yukon extreme U-joints as well. Yukon extreme hubs as well.

The electrical wiring for the locker was already installed when I was doing other wiring. Filled both diffs with 80w-90 non synthetic as well.

 

[CharlesC83]

Long winded post. Will update when success is achieved.

Was finally able to take this for a drive. The clutch slips under heavy load. Further investigation revealed I didn’t check my clutch free play. I just assumed the internal slave I was using was ok. And it was close to ok, but not. It was applying mild pressure to the clutch fingers.

I initially tried to use my clutch from my sm465, which fits. But I ordered in a clutch for a 1999-2004 Silverado 2500 5 speed. And it fits better, but still doesn’t have any free play. But is not applying the clutch. It’s like this flywheel is about .150” too thick. It’s aftermarket and the company probably assumes the end user is responsible for checking and setting free play.

I ordered an adjustable RAM brand internal slave for my transmission from summit and it’s supposed to be here today. I have a nice end clearance H-gauge and checked over and over. And I “should” be good with this adjustable slave. Especially if I want to change engine or clutch configurations with this transmission in the future.

The rest of the truck seemed great on my small road test. Rear brakes felt awesome. And the transmission, that I didn’t build shifted what seemed good.

It’s a snowy icy mess here and road testing it was not fun. I’m glad I discovered the clutch issue though and didn't smoke it or anything. Immediately drove home and diagnosed the issue.

So here it sits. Ha

Just so anyone reading this far knows. I have a long stick out (+.400”) crankshaft from a 99-2001 6.0 in my block. If I knew it was gonna be this undesirable I would have gone to the lengths to get a short crank. I am running Mcleods billet steel flywheel made for this crank. And a gm bellhousing and used the right internal slave. But something about that flywheel is just a little fatter than what it should be.

The truth is I should have known. To check the clutch free play before install. Lesson learned. Nothing damaged. It wasn’t forcing on the crankshaft or anything, just like driving with your foot on the clutch a little.

 

[CharlesC83]

The release bearing kit showed up. It is nice looking. Got it installed and adjusted. Went inside for the night a while ago and will double check and install for a drive tomorrow hopefully.

I grabbed some center force brand pressure plate bolts at summit as well. They look good quality for sure.

I started with about .130” clearance. I had to trim that guide pin as well. I got it just right. Thankful for all the holes in this bellhousing. You can see in the enough to see it working. With a small mirror to help also. I could grab an Amazon special phone borescope style camera or something too.

 

[CharlesC83]

I ended up setting my end play at .150” just like RAM instructions advise. Got it all in and started it up. The release is good, about halfway up pedal travel.

It did have this odd soft metal feathering sound when the pedal was pressed all the way down. I discovered the straight hoses are just barely kissing the super light outer springs that are on this pressure plate, I have no idea what they do. But this clutch is the kit meant for a 99-04 Chevy 2500 and it feels great when driving it. It’s buttery smooth and doesn’t have any clunking on and off the throttle like the old one did.

I can resolve the rubbing with some -3an 45 degree fittings. So, I ordered two styles from
Amazon and some new braided hoses just in case. They did get some marks on them from the springs hitting them.

The ORD off road hydraulic parking brake is sweet. The E locker works good. And the transmission feels good. Cruised at 75 for a minute and was only at 2600 rpm. Instead of screaming like the old 4 speed.

My pioneer stereo died though. Which sucks. It’s always something.

45 degree fittings will make my hoses enter at a better angle anyway. And this portion is accessible without removing the transmission.

I also braced my transfer case shifter bracket. It’s not the prettiest, but it and the magnum shifter are solid when using them.