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79 K5 H-Bomb build

keep in mind that not all 52's have the pins centered which effects the caster. Mine are offset, pushing the axle forward increasing my caster. I'm using either 4 or 6 degree shims, cant remember.
 
I think I am running 6 degree shims and an EZ inch up front. My issue was the tie rod was physically sitting on the pack before tightening the castle nuts. I installed a set of Ballistic Fab 1" high steer arm spacers and longer ARP studs to create the needed clearance.
 
I think I am running 6 degree shims and an EZ inch up front. My issue was the tie rod was physically sitting on the pack before tightening the castle nuts. I installed a set of Ballistic Fab 1" high steer arm spacers and longer ARP studs to create the needed clearance.

Thanks, I'll take a look.
 
Yep, that's them, they are sold individually so total cost is $104 + shipping. I may have just cheated my WFO bought ARP studs out a 1/4" or so to make them work with the spacers.

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My studs seem too short to even cheat. GRRRRR.

I think I'm going to remove the zeros and pirate another leaf from another spring pack I have.... not looking forward to pulling these springs AGAIN. I guess on the "bright side" I may stiffen up the front suspension enough that it'll be a nice driver? :)
 
Decided to get my ass is gear and get the front end together so I could roll this POS out and take a look at it outside. By the looks of it I should be able to pull the front zero rates... by the time I get a rear bumper (probably a DYI4x Gauntlet), Cage, tank, tools and let the springs settle, it should level out pretty well. I'll probably put the front spring in the next position forward too. Rear tire looks pretty centered... NEED BIGGER TIRES!

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Since the Blazer doesn't move on its own power to do a poser flex shot... I decided the Gator needed a flex shot. Lol.

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If you had stock springs all the way around this thing would be PERFECT! Even if you up sized to 40-44s so things were proportional, do you really want to be that high?
 
I will say that I'm very torn... the truck is primarily going to be used for snow and mud wheeling... so height isn't the biggest concern there. I think I may run it like this and see what it's like. Pretty sure I'm going with 41.5 pitbulls... 44s are so darn wide.

Of course that is how I'm feeling this moment... I reserve the right to change my mind. :)
 
I think I have one last card to play before doing anything drastic. Hopefully it'll drop the overall height too.
 
Why do you want high steer?

Martin

Honestly, it isnt the end of the world if I can't run the high steer... that being said, I prefer it as I've seen enough bent tie rods out on the trail. The other reason I want to run it is that I have the high steer arms/tie rod/joints for it already.
 
Honestly, it isnt the end of the world if I can't run the high steer... that being said, I prefer it as I've seen enough bent tie rods out on the trail. The other reason I want to run it is that I have the high steer arms/tie rod/joints for it already.

To be honest, I don't think doing high steer is really worth the hassle to get it in there packaged right. I have been running the tie rod in the factory location since I've owned the truck and all I have is ORD's heavy duty tie rod and their TRE's and I've hit that thing multiple times and it's still straight as an arrow. I know you have REID knuckles already so going high steer shouldn't be a concern as far as knuckles go, but it's still pretty annoying getting high-steer to work well and clearance everything on these rigs (obviously it's been done before, but IMO the benefit is not worth the hassle). I say just get a beef tie rod from ORD and if you want, tie your high steer arms into the stock location just for added strength...but that's just me I guess
 
And I'm just the idiot that has high steer and it works perfect lol. But honestly, I don't think I even need the high steer. Beef prevents bent tie rods.
 
Tie rods bend, including aftermarket ones. In reality it depends how you use the rig and how you drive it.
 
Ok... maybe my brain isnt thinking straight but even with crossover steering won't the drag link still be an issue? Kinda seems like the same spot would be an issue.... I suppose you get a little more angle with the drag link aiming "up" but seems like the same potential of interference.
 

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